Category: Motorrad Oldtimer Forum

Hello, in my mill I still have the original 6V Bosch Noris ignition, also with the old mechanical F-controller. This did not work any more, I thought all about how it works and then set it as well (no – excitement about resistance – full excitement with contacts and anchor). This works quite OK but not good enough, i.e. in the normal speed range I have 6.5-6.9 V charge voltage, however with VOLLgas it goes up to 7.2 V and with stand-up gas under battery voltage 6,2 V. Therefore and understandably my 6V Gel AGM battery has now applied for the pension. Long speech short sense, I probably need a new electric controller (harm about the original condition but does not help anything). As I have to connect it and remove resistance I know. 1. How much heat can the parts (probably quite little) easily place it instead of the F-controller at its place. If he does not like that, must I guess I’m going to extend the cables and somehow take them out of the ignition, which would be a shame. 2. These controllers, cast out aluminium housing with PU/plastic resin, can’t be adjusted. Which charging voltage do they supply? I bought a new 6v Gel AGM battery, which should not break again (in case of load break in and can’t be charged anymore). I’m just an occasional driver with a few hundred kilometers a year with this machine. ipps, Best regards Peter

I wanted to completely install the Keyster repair kit KK-0146NR. Now I have problems getting the nozzle stick out. What kind of rubber is that that is around him (see photo). The nozzle stick is already rammed and is now stuck. Any ideas or tips?

Hello together, I exchange the clutch springs with my DKW RT 125/2 (BJ 1954) because one is broken and I wonder if there is a certain pretension, which I have to pay attention to. Or is there an impact until where I have to tension the springs? The clutch pads I had made new only as already said above is unfortunately a spring broken when domes think for age-related reasons and maybe because the new coverings have pressed more on the old springs so my guess Second question: Do the springs all have to be aligned in the same direction (e.g. all the hooks above or below), since these are held with small holding needles or does this not matter for the function of the coupling? Would I be happy about your experiences!

Hello, I got a Dkw Rt 175 Bj 1955 from an acquaintance and wanted to make it run again. Life of the machine about 30 years. Now first problem the ignition lock can be turned off so no resistance and also no spark so I think ignition lock defective. Can someone tell me which cables I have to merge so that the ignition is on and I can check if there is a spark or if there are still problems at the ignition. Greetings Andreas

Good day, I have a relatively old motorcycle and am getting it back in shape. However, I can’t get it on for a long time. The motorcycle only has a kick starter. It’s a Dellorto VHBZ 25 B S carburetor. The carburetor has been overhauled. However, when starting it comes out of the golden vent tube in the air intake (picture follows) petrol sprayed out. I assume that the carburetor overflows, as the spark plugs are always wet. I have b ereits tries to turn the mixing screw completely for the fuel supply, but even then petrol from the tube sprayed. Does someone have a tip ? Thank you very much! Addition: The whole thing only occurs with a carburetor on a cylinder.

Have some classics in the stable, which I drive little but sometimes, and there is a red oldtimer change mark. With this you can drive e.g. to oldtimer events, make test drives etc. Makes sense only with several bikes in this status. Before now a review has to take place (§23). Question: Do there apply the same rules as with H-marks for car oldtimers? There it says for example, that the paint must (for example) have the original color. Have here three wheels, with the following Beso changes: 1. Machine has grey painted engine covers, which were original aluminium-silver. 2. Tank + side lid repainted plus a decoration (under clear varnish). 3. Accessories exhaust (scheibl, contemporary). Is there any problems with the report to be expected?

Require the concentrated expertise of the Schraubergemeinde again. I’m just repairing the original spring legs of my MZ ES 250/2 team. The original sleeves are just back from the chromer and now it should go to the inner life. 1. The filling quantity and which damper oil is described in the manual. Here, however, I would be interested in your experience of quantity and oil. 2. In the forums it is described that the inside spring should be painted with grease around Gerää It is expressly described not to use roller bearing grease or grease to lubricate the lubricating nipples. Unfortunately, no statement of what kind of grease. Do you have recommendations such as thick and whether the springs with which grease can be used? It should not run out in the heat. 3. Spare parts for the inner life seem to be only very limited available. In the relevant suppliers I see only the felt ring, the upper shaft sealing ring with dust lip, the inner plastic ring for the e chrome sleeve. Do you have knowledge about suppliers who have more spare parts in the delivery program? For example, the rubber buffers at the top of the piston rod. I would also be interested in statements about quality experiences. If the replicas are rather garbage I would rather work up the original parts and use them again. Thanks in advance, Biker’s greeting Heinrich

Hello, I am currently restoring a very rare moped car from the company Allcars from Italy. The Mechanic components are now working, now it should go to the electrics… Information or even spare parts are unfortunately hard to find for this rare vehicle. The part of which I think it was the controller is not much left. A manufacturer or similar can not be recognized either. For this reason I wanted a universal controller, or one from a similar Fa Only I have no idea what I have to pay attention to (correct dimensioning(ampere)? Regulator or rectifier? or both? Then in a component or separate? How to connect, cable? etc…) A 50cc 2Tact moped motor by motori morini with out-of-print ignition coil is installed. Under the pole wheel of the engine, I know there are two light coils and the interrupter with capacitor. According to the operating instructions, the motor delivers 75w at 12v. (like the one for light, H upe, windshield wipers etc… should not be enough?!) The board system in general also runs completely with 12v If you still need information please let us know. Thank you very much in advance! I look forward to your contributions.

Good day, I bought a mobylette M1 (bj. should be 1973), it stood for years in the barn was moved by the previous owner but almost never so all parts are still original. At first it did not jump on after which the spark plug was changed it jumped on and ran well even after a longer ride it went out and that start was hard when it was on it started to shake when driving and gave hardly any gas. Now I had them 2 days he stand and try it again today and she went on again a little hard but when she was on you had to give it a constant gas so it doesn’t go off besides she also very shaken and smelled burnt. I hope you can help me to find out that problem.

Good evening together, I already opened a topic a few days ago to my Moto Morini and there could also be helped me very well, but now I am faced with further problems. Here first an update to the original problem with the correct vocabulary 😉 The carburettor of the 1st (front) cylinder has spewed fuel from the carburettor through a golden bypass tube (picture I add again). The tube is as far as I have understood it, there is to the Stand-up gas (if the slider is closed in the air intake) to enrich the required air through just this tube with fuel and to conduct it into the combustion chamber. I then disassembled the carburettor, checked it and was able to minimize the amount of fuel ejected. Furthermore, due to a tip in this forum (thanks again!) I replaced the carburettor of the rear cylinder with that of the front. The result: Now the fuel is spraying from the rear V gasifier on the front cylinder. The front carburetor on the rear cylinder is normal. So I ruled out that the carburetor causes the problem. (likes to correct me if I am wrong there). To the info: In various start attempts the front spark plug was always wet and the rear only slightly moist. Now I thought the problem a little bigger and found that the inlet valve closes in my opinion too late (if the piston is compressed again) . This would a This means that the inlet valve of the 1st cylinder runs on the same cam as the outlet valve of the 2nd cylinder that the control times are adjusted. (1st cylinder. Inlet valve closes to late = air is blown out of the combustion chamber again by the carburettor – carburettor Spits petrol and spark plug gets wet. 2. Cylinder: Outlet valve opens too early = fuel air mixture is released unburnt again – spark plug is almost dry). and the timing belt changed (ratio of crankshaft to camshaft changed by a tooth.) Don’t worry, not so far that valves and pistons touch each other. The whole has also shown a small success, but now instead of the pure petrol comes a atomized fuel-air mixture from the tube. Furthermore only on the 1st cylinder. In addition, the carburettors in the intake tract are in my opinion quite wet. Another problem that has now occurred is that the ignition current interruption r by changing the camshaft no longer stands on the correct mark for the OT, so I think that the adjustment of the steering times might not have been helpful after all. Addition: The said carburetor is the one in driving direction left If someone still wants to read this text and maybe have a good tip, then I would be very happy. Nevertheless, all of you have a nice evening and thank you very much! Tom