Category: BMW Motoren Forum

Hello! So I have to bring a 28er properly to speed! I’ve driven now 7 years long, 4 different turbo vehicles, now I want something with responsiveness! Of course only for by the way! My intention is to make a really wild suction tuning! Since the engine with 66 mm stroke is a real short stroke, I think it’s best with speed! Everything that has to do with CNC I can do myself like e.g. cylinder head machining, etc! ngteilen, such as larger valves, camshafts, cupsticks, single thrushes, … Has anyone done such a thing, or does anyone know a reason not to do that??? Thanks first of all!

Hello together, I have a BMW X1 Sdrive 18d, BJ 2009, 237000km, manual transmission. For some time now I have the problem, if the car stands a few hours in the sun the speed immediately after starting up to the red area turns up. The car can then not be switched off, I then have to strangle it. However, when the start again the speed goes up again. When I then go off so and drive a few kilometers (so between 2 and 10km) everything is normal again. The car then gives gas by itself, when I press the clutch to switch the speed immediately again to the red area. Further it is for a long time so that, as soon as the car has warmed up, the speed always turns for approx. 2 seconds still about 400 rpm high before it then falls off. The same happens even if I only take the foot off the gas, then the car also gives approx. 2 seconds itself gas before it then slows down. The start/stop Autom Atik hasn’t worked for a long time. Yesterday I was in the BMW workshop, there they read out the fault memory but it wasn’t saved. They thought it could be some kind of sensor that would be very expensive and expensive to look for, so it would probably be better to buy another car. I think, however, it’s less a sensor but rather the problem that when it’s warm and the sun shines on the bonnet for a few hours, from somewhere oil k If that is burned in the engine then the speed goes up immediately, and if this oil is burned then everything is ok again. Do I lie there with my idea right or is there someone who already had the problem and knows where the problem could come from? Thank you already for your help. Greetings, Bine

Hello people, I have removed the solenoid valves of my E87 and replaced the seals, because it was slightly siffing from the inlet valve. I inserted the valves in wash gas and inserted new seals. After the first engine start the car sounded terrible, was terribly rattling and clacking and the speed fluctuated between 900 and 1100 revolutions. I checked cables several times, I think it is also connected correctly, otherwise the cables would be too kinked. i ch have the assumption that I have not put the valves in far enough, it may be that I have shot down the vanos or even the whole engine? I am grateful for any help!

Hello to all motor enthusiasts, I would like to keep my 120d Bj 2010 as long as possible without much to do. Since the scheduling with a coder is cumbersome for me, I would rather keep the free burning of the PDF in the eye differently. But how? Can someone tell me with which driving cycles it is likely that a free burning is initiated and how long it takes then and at which speed it is interrupted prematurely? Which driving time min. Which speed is min. it is almost the same with all 2L engines? Has this topic already been dealt with extensively. I would also be very grateful about a link

Hello I would let my M57 engine in the X3 increase the Agr rate so the less exhaust gas will be burned along with it. I recently cleaned the intake bridge and this looked quite good so it should fit quite well just it was just a bit worn out. Now the question is if there could be disadvantages there? I read that the combustion temperature then rises strongly from 400° to 600-700°. Maybe here can be explained in summary whether this any risks with itself Thank you.

Hello, I would like to open a thread here in which everyone who has repaired or replaced his vanos can briefly share his experiences with the others. The replacement of the vanos unit (min 450€ material at double vanos) or the repair with new sealing rings from www.beisansystems.com (under 100€ material) eliminates the bad speed ingress during warm-up on the M52TU engines from BJ98-00. But also with all other BMW 6Zyl. Engines BJ92-06 improves the engine characteristics In order for other drivers to know how the vehicle behaved before and after the repair, only the following should be briefly described: 1. Vehicle type, BJ, km 2. briefly describe the problem 3. Vanos or sealing rings?, costs?, how much work? 4. Vehicle behavior after a run-in time of about 500km? Please ask questions in other threads, as otherwise it will quickly become confusing. Many information e.g. here: http://www.bmw-syndikat.de/…/topic.asp?… Feedback on the sealing rings in the US Forum: http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/vanos Greetings Jörg

Hello together, In icy cold, my 635D started to rush a few days ago when the turbo (depending on the gas pedal position from ~60 KmH) started to operate – thought first the front window ventilation at the driver’s side would be more adjusted at once (that’s how it sounded), but it comes out of the engine compartment when listening more closely, tending to go up on the driver’s side. I then passed on leisurely (with ~120 KmH gliding is no problem), but as soon as you try to retrieve power it rushes and from d After a while, a very quiet high whistle set in when driving leisurely. The workshop has now looked very carefully at the whole thing: all hoses are tight (under load you can see them bloating too), both turbochargers build up pressure, charge air cooler also seems OK, but the DPF gives way to high counter pressure and has too high mass (although the BC has nothing to do with it). It should be noted that this DPF was professionally cleaned (burned out, etc.) about 1 year ago (after the BC had indicated this) and reinstalled with new equivalent counterpressure and mass values. Now the obvious measure would be to install a new DPF, cost point ~2K. However, the question arises why the DPF is to be returned after a year. One thesis is that the biturbo loses minimal oil, which is not noticed as a defect, but is added to the DPF. This means that new loaders would also be necessary, cost point including installation ~2.5K. But is it good then? Of course you don’t know that, so you prefer to ask in advance: Does someone have similar experiences behind them and can comment on the theses / considerations? Thank you and greetings

I have already read all the BMW R6 engines on Wikipedia, but there are still questions… If you are allowed to import only one vehicle that is not older than 5 years because of the import rules on an island in Asia: Then you probably (whether diesel or petrol) do not get around direct injection, right?1) – Has ‘DI’ become at least less difficult these days?2) – Can I avoid turbochargers with a diesel model?3) – Can I avoid turbochargers i a petrol model? And to ignore the 5 year deadline – 4) – which are the best rows of sixs between N52, N53 and M57 +newer or older engine sisters of which I don’t know yet…?5) – In itself I would prefer diesel, but there are the turbochargers, the drall flaps, the whole exhaust aria and I have somewhere gone that the 28i or 30i is so the most reliable that BMW has ever built? (did you number the questions to make the answer easier?) en…)

I had already written a long text and described in detail what was going on with me. Unfortunately this text was then completely deleted by an unconceivable touch of the mobile phone. Therefore here very briefly. I had problems with vibration in idling up to about 2000 rpm. (525d N47) At first I left the engine bearings, which brought only limited success. These motor bearings were from the accessories. A familiar thought that maybe the original bearings would be better because the Zubeh At the same time, the suction bridge was removed for cleaning purposes. It was discovered that a throttle valve was loose in the intake channel. After the intermediate plate with the throttle valves was replaced, the engine runs again as it should be. Whether the cause of the vibration in the engine bearings or the throttle valve lay I am not sure, of course, but I strongly suspect the flaps.

So people have an important question! I have planted in my 320i me n 325i engine (yes, I changed all important parts:For 325i new needs: cooler, control unit, gear unit, clutch, cardan shaft, differential, drive shafts, axles, triangle handlebars, brakes complete, brake power amplifier, wire harness, coding plug for speedometer, exhaust system incl. Kat, Lamdasonde,…) So now my question I need a full acceptance with the Tüv now? -What does it look like with the insurance – or . What is the cost of the Tüvindung ???? The engine runs perfectly (is already 5 months in it) Will only have it registered because of the security protection ! Furthermore I have a Bastuck for a 325i and that would be stupid if I had the on nn 320i registered :-)) So thank you for your answers !!!!