Category: BMW Motoren Forum

Hello all, I am the owner of a BMW E 90 with a N43 B20 A engine. The car ran 119,000 km and from bj 2008. Recently the NOX sensor was changed because the was defective. They then also made the same fuel low pressure valve and oil pressure switch, because they were also in the fault memory. But now to my current problem. A good 14 days ago the car in the stand was totally unround and it also went on the control light. Then I immediately got the car out of it. cht and then read out with a launch tester. Burners on the 3 cylinder. Errors were then deleted and are to that in terms of quietness so it did not happen again. Now I have the error Lambda controller 2 with the error code 002C7F as in the heading. The indicator light goes on near a certain time and the error always comes again. A colleague and I then read out with Carly a few live data with the result: Lambdasollwerte Gruppe 1 : 1.000 Lambdasollwert Group 2 : 1.000 Lambdawert vor Kat Bank 1 : 2,424 Lambdawert vor Kat Bank 2 : 2,142 Lambda Adaption Sum mul. and add. Group 1 : 8,594% Lambda Adaption Sum mul. and add. Group 2 : 4,688% When driving on the Autbahn, I noticed that he always has a jerker in it when driving constantly. However, the speed does not play a role. The steering chain was also made before about 3000 km. If someone has already looked for this here then bi I would like to apologize that I wrote it again and a link that will help me further would be great. Otherwise I just hope that someone here can tell me what that can be or how to do it best to fix the error. I also say thank you very much for the answers. MfG Sebastian

Hello guys, I hope you can help me further, the car about what it’s about a BMW 520d f11 just got a overhauled fuselage engine. But for a few days I have noticed some power loss. In the on-board computer nothing is displayed and no lamp lights up. I read out with Carly and the following errors came out: 25E400 exhaust pressure sensor in front of turbocharger, signal: interruption or short circuit after mass 255B00 exhaust gas return controller, position control: valve too far closed/p ositive control deviation 28ECOO pressure sensors, plausibility in follow-up: Exhaust gas pressure in front of turbocharger not plausible to ambient pressure 2AB700 Exhaust gas pressure sensor in front of turbocharger, plausibility: value not plausible to charging pressure and ambient pressure 245600 Particle filter system: load regeneration has been activated I also noticed this every time I read out with Carly and that is almost every day there is either dpf heavily loaded or regeneration started. ? Sensor capput? Hose torn? Coking? How should I best proceed ? Did anyone have this problem in this way ? Thanks in advance

Hi, you might want to drive an X3 Diesel to Leipzig tomorrow. Because it’s so cold there and I heard the diesel freezes at -20°C would fill me up if that’s true or if it’s just a rumor. Thanks already. mfg Phil

Dear people, recently I get the error “Drive” possible, etc. According to the error memory of BimmerLink “36F500” . The error comes short and disappears. In addition, today the motor control light in yellow was added permanently. I deleted the memory so that the indicator light disappeared. So far not again the car has no symptoms. Drive a lot short distance, but also regularly highway. Had this AGR update last year. No idea if that all together On the net I found some entries, but without solutions. To the car: F34 LCI 320xd 102.00 km. Hope someone can help me. Greetings Atilla

Hello! So I have to bring a 28er properly to speed! I’ve driven now 7 years long, 4 different turbo vehicles, now I want something with responsiveness! Of course only for by the way! My intention is to make a really wild suction tuning! Since the engine with 66 mm stroke is a real short stroke, I think it’s best with speed! Everything that has to do with CNC I can do myself like e.g. cylinder head machining, etc! ngteilen, such as larger valves, camshafts, cupsticks, single thrushes, … Has anyone done such a thing, or does anyone know a reason not to do that??? Thanks first of all!

Hello together, I have a BMW X1 Sdrive 18d, BJ 2009, 237000km, manual transmission. For some time now I have the problem, if the car stands a few hours in the sun the speed immediately after starting up to the red area turns up. The car can then not be switched off, I then have to strangle it. However, when the start again the speed goes up again. When I then go off so and drive a few kilometers (so between 2 and 10km) everything is normal again. The car then gives gas by itself, when I press the clutch to switch the speed immediately again to the red area. Further it is for a long time so that, as soon as the car has warmed up, the speed always turns for approx. 2 seconds still about 400 rpm high before it then falls off. The same happens even if I only take the foot off the gas, then the car also gives approx. 2 seconds itself gas before it then slows down. The start/stop Autom Atik hasn’t worked for a long time. Yesterday I was in the BMW workshop, there they read out the fault memory but it wasn’t saved. They thought it could be some kind of sensor that would be very expensive and expensive to look for, so it would probably be better to buy another car. I think, however, it’s less a sensor but rather the problem that when it’s warm and the sun shines on the bonnet for a few hours, from somewhere oil k If that is burned in the engine then the speed goes up immediately, and if this oil is burned then everything is ok again. Do I lie there with my idea right or is there someone who already had the problem and knows where the problem could come from? Thank you already for your help. Greetings, Bine

Hello people, I have removed the solenoid valves of my E87 and replaced the seals, because it was slightly siffing from the inlet valve. I inserted the valves in wash gas and inserted new seals. After the first engine start the car sounded terrible, was terribly rattling and clacking and the speed fluctuated between 900 and 1100 revolutions. I checked cables several times, I think it is also connected correctly, otherwise the cables would be too kinked. i ch have the assumption that I have not put the valves in far enough, it may be that I have shot down the vanos or even the whole engine? I am grateful for any help!

Hello to all motor enthusiasts, I would like to keep my 120d Bj 2010 as long as possible without much to do. Since the scheduling with a coder is cumbersome for me, I would rather keep the free burning of the PDF in the eye differently. But how? Can someone tell me with which driving cycles it is likely that a free burning is initiated and how long it takes then and at which speed it is interrupted prematurely? Which driving time min. Which speed is min. it is almost the same with all 2L engines? Has this topic already been dealt with extensively. I would also be very grateful about a link

Hello I would let my M57 engine in the X3 increase the Agr rate so the less exhaust gas will be burned along with it. I recently cleaned the intake bridge and this looked quite good so it should fit quite well just it was just a bit worn out. Now the question is if there could be disadvantages there? I read that the combustion temperature then rises strongly from 400° to 600-700°. Maybe here can be explained in summary whether this any risks with itself Thank you.

Hello, I would like to open a thread here in which everyone who has repaired or replaced his vanos can briefly share his experiences with the others. The replacement of the vanos unit (min 450€ material at double vanos) or the repair with new sealing rings from www.beisansystems.com (under 100€ material) eliminates the bad speed ingress during warm-up on the M52TU engines from BJ98-00. But also with all other BMW 6Zyl. Engines BJ92-06 improves the engine characteristics In order for other drivers to know how the vehicle behaved before and after the repair, only the following should be briefly described: 1. Vehicle type, BJ, km 2. briefly describe the problem 3. Vanos or sealing rings?, costs?, how much work? 4. Vehicle behavior after a run-in time of about 500km? Please ask questions in other threads, as otherwise it will quickly become confusing. Many information e.g. here: http://www.bmw-syndikat.de/…/topic.asp?… Feedback on the sealing rings in the US Forum: http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/vanos Greetings Jörg