Category: BMW Motoren Forum

So people have an important question! I have planted in my 320i me n 325i engine (yes, I changed all important parts:For 325i new needs: cooler, control unit, gear unit, clutch, cardan shaft, differential, drive shafts, axles, triangle handlebars, brakes complete, brake power amplifier, wire harness, coding plug for speedometer, exhaust system incl. Kat, Lamdasonde,…) So now my question I need a full acceptance with the Tüv now? -What does it look like with the insurance – or . What is the cost of the Tüvindung ???? The engine runs perfectly (is already 5 months in it) Will only have it registered because of the security protection ! Furthermore I have a Bastuck for a 325i and that would be stupid if I had the on nn 320i registered :-)) So thank you for your answers !!!!

Hello, which current gasoline engines (from BJ 2013) usually cause little problems even with a lot of mileage? I am looking for a vehicle that should be driven as long as possible… N13? N20? B48? N55?

Hello friends out there. We need help! Our E28 m. M20-B27 engine died a few days ago, and did not jump any more. We have since renewed the pump relay, because we believed it was broken. Was apparently ok. Pump ok, filter has passage, we also have the clamps 30 and 87 short-circuited and the pump ran clean. The control current +15, from the ignition lock, under the relay is also there. Strange: despite existing control current you have to tap the relay easily so that the P Ignition spark: is not there either. Distributors looked through, cap cleaned, rotor ok. Inductive sensor on the transmission is ok. Also the encoder on the flywheel is fine clean. Despite repeated start attempts the spark plugs are still bone dry! i.e.: no petrol, no spark. And the dung box does not start! The dare is very good in the shot and has almost 90,000 on it! All plug connections are finely clean and tested. Our suspicion lies with the control unit. The car doesn’t have a computer on board, so no immobilizer problem?

Hello Leutz, had the following test. after a bearing damage at my 320i I had had the bearings changed and it held a whole 600Km, I assume that either 1 pleul is defective or the crankshaft has a HAU, does not have any further wild So, now to my question: Since I see no great sense in it my 320 hull again a SOOO large OP (event. head down because of Pleul or crankshaft renewed), I would like to install now nn 325 fuselage. (which I already have) What more do I need and what can I use from the 320 engine??? (Rump and cylinder head of the 325 is clear, although the control unit ***or is enough there?***) Does someone know more or has done this before??? THX in advance

It was finally about 2.5 weeks ago… after 5 long months of waiting I was able to close my beloved BMW 135i Coupé in my arms. Pure joy!!! Until he let me down on the motorway from Croatia to Switzerland, Slovenia on the way home 3 days ago!!!!!! According to the BMW mechanics in Slovenia a high-pressure pump is broken. Does anyone know what is waiting for me now? Can I adjust to a fault car with constant problems? I had already noticed before the trip to Croatia, when driving in, that he sometimes had problems taking the gas when starting or driving slowly…. he was also 2 to 3 times drunk. At that time I thought it was up to me to “re-adjust” to the new car. I mean, 306 horses should not have any problems taking the gas ;o) On the trip itself (my parents were on their way in their car) it was noticed that he was going to My parents thought it stinks as if the cart was spitting out pure petrol. In addition, I noticed the high fuel consumption…. 12l. But I didn’t give him too much concern – somewhere such a hell machine has to get its performance. But now I ask myself – were these all signs on the coming defect?! Does anyone have experience?? Dear greetings from Switzerland! PS; I am still immortally in love with my little rocket and hope he soon comes from Sloweni The repair is done here at my garage…

Hello, I’ve been having a problem with my 545i/E60 for a long time. The car is jerking, the consumption indicator constantly commutes at constant speed and the automatic transmission switches as arbitrarily and very hard. There are countless LMM errors in the fault memory. Finally, the LMM was exchanged in a BMW workshop (after having been replaced half a year ago) and yet all the LMM errors reappear. The workshop also looked for leaks and It is vaguely mentioned by the master that there may be something wrong with the engine control unit. However, it was claimed by him half a year ago that the automatic transmission was defective. Therefore, I can’t really trust these statements. I had the car now already in 5 workshops because of this problem, of which 3 BMW workshops. None of these workshops had even the slightest clue what this is about. Can anyone help me here? Thanks and Greeting OpKa

Hello dear forum, I’ve seen and experienced a lot, but now I’m standing for an absolute rattle and urgently need help and exchange with like-minded screwdrivers. It’s about a 530d F11/F10 N57 engine (N57d30a). The car had a defective on the control chains, were hanged and started to hit, noticed it in the speed range from 1500 to 2300 rpm. So I got new control chains (Original Ina Chains) camshaft high pressure pump, high pressure pump pe crankshaft and crankshaft oil pump. I also replaced the automatic transmission because the original ATG (8HP70) was chips. Everything reassembly engine started again. I thought 🙁 let the engine warm up, runs very quietly in the stationary gas, no dropouts purring, no side noises like knocking or beating. Engine driven 10KM with moderate speed up to 2200 rpm very neatly. At the last 500m I had the feeling (only feeling) that the power was a bit back The car is accelerated to 3000-3500 rpm. The starter doesn’t get the engine turned again. The car is back on the lifts. Everything has been dismantled, control times checked, fit! Nevertheless, the head was disassembled because two cylids did not show the full compression during the pressure test, valves had coked, cleaned and newly ground, –> now OK, engine had not set up, no valves crooked or defective visible. Engine was hard to spin, the S CHWERgang comes from the crankshaft, after ten revolutions again easier to turn I think everything was that it is still a bit heavier than usual. Motor built up again, started, runs up to 2000 rpm very well, from approx. 3000 rpm the engine goes off and the starter gets the engine only very slowly turned (like with empty battery). Hand-turned again, (starter out, engine before and back turned manually on the flywheel) again lightly gäng) starter in, engine star It runs inconspicuously. Engine runs again, accelerates, engine runs out. I don’t know any more and need help… am really desperate! What can this be about? can it be crankshafts / pleul bearings? Ask for your support, maybe someone can upload this text into the FAbucar app Thank you very much Thomas

Hello, I don’t want to bore you with the history and come directly to the current problem. If someone is interested I can also tell the whole history. I had problems with the control chain. This was exchanged including the tensioner and the rail. Because then the engine still did not run perfectly replaced a vano. I don’t know how to explain the problem with the vano in connection with the chain problem. Can this one be the In any case, I have had a very high oil loss since the repairs. Approximately 1L on 1tkm. Could a sealing have been damaged during these repairs? Many greetings and a good slide to all of you. Gab0815

Hello together, I have the problem that the vibration damper of the crankshaft dissolves into its individual parts at continuous speeds starting from 7,800 tours. They were used models of M20 injection engines. Interestingly, I have one of the E21 and that, that can stand out. Does also “Linder Motorsport” stand on it. Now the question would be, what is different about the Linder part? Does this phenomenon possibly depend on the fact that the E30 dampers I used, not together with the Crankshaft were weighed or did I simply have bad luck and the parts were age-weak? I will in any case get a new one and have it balanced together with the crankshaft. Does anyone have similar experiences? One thought was also to have the part made from solid material but it does not say without reason “damper” and whether that remains without consequences I do not know. Greeting -dodo-

Servus, i.e. at the 320d from the father, has been hearing a tacker for many KMs, especially under load when accelerating. The Bosch service thinks this would clearly be a combustion noise and probably the fault are the injectors. A check of this costs approx. 300€. Now I bought two new (!) injectors at Ebay for a bargain price and would like to expand the old ones and then replace them according to the defects. Who has tips for the construction, installation and start of the engine for me? If the parts have not yet been removed, however, it is well known that: – the injectors may be fixed and go out very hard. – before the installation of a new injector of the seating area has to be cleaned well – new copper sealing rings have to be used. Unfortunately I do not know: – how to get out of the parts with fixed injectors – how I can clean the seats – with which torque the nuts for the injector clamps are removed again. – whether it is at the Neusta Achso ja: 320d, Bj 09/2003, 190,000km. First engine, first injectors, first loader. Who has useful and qualified information for me, please bring it here. Unusual comments like “This will go wrong” or similar gossip I don’t want to read here! Thanks! Jonny