Category: BMW Motoren Forum

Hello guys, I have now read through tens of pages and find that my planned purchase of a BMW’s 3 Series somehow always finds the same end —> Engine damage and God knows what else! N43-Motor = Sch….. N46-Motor = Sch….. What can one buy at all at BMW’s, without one remaining within a few hundred kilometers already ?? I would have in mind: – BMW 320i Automatic, 94,000 km, EZ: 01/2009, 170 hp, 12.00€ – BMW 318i, 96,000 km, EZ: 04/2010, 143 hp, 11.990€ – BMW 318i Touring, 113,000 km, EZ: 08/2008, 143 hp, 9.990€ – BMW 523i Automatic, 71,000 km, EZ: 05/2005, 177 hp, 9.990€ – BMW 320i, 79.900 km, EZ: 03/2005, 150 hp, 8.450€ Which would/could most likely survive the next 10 years? I think the 523i as a 6-cylinder…? Otherwise: Which one can buy without having to grab the bag with x-thousand euros? Well… maybe rather an Audi A4 with 131 hp from the year 2005/2006 ?

Servus, as many know, I’ve been falling for the N63 engine for about 10 years, a real hate / love. After I’m super satisfied with my N63TU3, like many others, I finally found a “weak spot”, which is just as interesting and important for you, since it may lead to extremely expensive consequential damage (wire harness + motor control unit + off-installation of the engine). In turn: In the last weeks I’ve noticed two things:1.) Farid (he has In one of his YouTube videos, he reported on a G30 550i in which the engine control unit was defective, since the thermostat coolant plug has penetrated the capilar effect into the engine control unit and destroyed it. As a result, the engine had to be installed off and back in order to replace the destroyed wire harness + a new engine control unit. Source: https://youtu.be/fuvC_lANB5Q?si=BgLfVExXUWLXXjXF at minute 7:09 see 2.) In the USA forums there have been reports that drivers of N63TU(X) vehicles received mail from BMW, in which they were informed about a “voluntary extended” warranty for the thermostat. The guarantee is then 15 years or 150,000 miles. Naturally only valid in the USA. Source:https://f92.bimmerpost.com/…/showthread.php?… Now I have been having the fun of “searching” my vehicle with the endoscope. I will now replace the thermostat and the water pump and examine the wire harness. I hope that the plug housing is still dry for me. If someone wants to do this for themselves, then please click here for:https://youtu.be/okVBrqZgmp0?si=oOQ5izRcf28VENaX I do not want to claim that every vehicle is affected, but it is worth it with a damage risk of easy 5k Euro, If someone wants to examine the plug on the motor control unit (in driving direction right), the plug is called A46*3B. Important, however, is that the thermostat is ok, or at some point it is changed for a current part, which does not have this error.

Hello, I had to change my cooler 6 months ago and also immediately renewed the glow plugs and STG. I removed the air flow from filter, turbo, turbo cooler to AGR and air collector. After about 4tkm now after a fast highway trip I had turned off the X3 and left again after 30 minutes. I already noticed that from 2,000 rpm a strange noise occurred, as if air was pumping out at a leaking hose connection – “unfortunately” only under load. N Ach 5 Min has also approached the motor lamp, error memory says P3264 (seemingly air mass or air quantity flow rate (bank 1)), In the stand one hears nothing. I would say when driving there is hardly noticeable power loss. Have had the cover down and made a visual check, unfortunately nothing found. Can one limit on the basis of the error number, which hose is apparently leaking or at which place? Are there recommendations for troubleshooting or to the procedure? + Best regards Tobi

Hello, have discovered that with my f20 20da Lci the air mass is higher than the sea target value. Measured as well as with the gas give the values remain the same with the distance. At 2000u it is supposed to be 120 and 70 is at. Is this a problem? Air filter was changed recently.

Tach municipality, once again the little one from my daughter……Daughter has been coming to dad for weeks and says my car often shows coolant level too low. Ok, so once filled up and good, externally nothing to recognize. No water loss in the engine, ÖL even without entry. So first filled up. Result after 14 days again over 0.5 ltr away…… so sometimes a little bit stuttered and came on the topic AGR cooler. Today at the friendly ….he wants to check however only for so much how the AGR cooler costs me…325 EUR. When I learned cart clamper … there were not such great things yet. Ergo I might need some tips…..redeem was removed from the temperature sensor – if this fully Russ everything ok if clean then AGR cooler defective. Also some tips where the AGR cooler sits and how this is removed. Thank you ! Grs TOSCH

Hello dear E90 community, Looking for desperate without success, I have decided to describe my problems in this forum. Whenever I have the engine turned to about 1800 rpm, a rhythmic hissing sound is to be heard and stops at about 2400 rpm. I have a video on YouTube that has exactly the same problem as me, and in the comments of this video it says that it is the control chain or is a quite normal noise. However, since I know how to use the I’m not sure if it’s really the control chain. When I turn on my car in the morning, there’s no rattle or sound like that. I hope someone can clear me up or calm me down. Here’s a video on YouTube with the same sound as with me.https://youtube.com/shorts/91ShzAo6-0E?feature=share

Hello, I’ve been a mini fan for a long time. Recently I browsed around in Youtube.de. Found there a great post from “auto motor & sport”, the topic “mini-hayabusa” was dealt with. Some guy has a Hayabusa motorcycle engine installed in a Mini 1300. Hot device I thought I would buy that now too. But when I let through all the comments I saw a post in the state that such a vehicle in Germany is not allowed. Is that really true? Are there any problems? with the TÜV? Or can I buy a car with Hayabusamotor gently? Video: http://en.youtube.com/watch?v=kvqoA8wyu3w Greetings from the mini fan

Hello Together Question about the steering chain. At my BMW 320D F31 Year of construction2013 the steering chain would be torn says BMW branch workshop For the repair, only an exchange engine would be considered, which of course does not count for the vehicle. Now my question to someone who is familiar with these engines: Is there a collision with valve and piston in the engine in any case? or is this more of a lucky thing if this does not happen? Or is that impossible with the engine? ung: I didn’t hear the slightest noise when I was lying down! Is it possible to do it with a new control chain. Remove the broken ones naturally from the oil pan. Is there possibly the possibility to see through the glow plug openings with an endoscope camera whether valves and pistons are damaged or not? Is it worth the effort? For helpful comments I would like to thank you in advance!

Hello together I bought a bmw 320i hand switch 2010 approval recently. It has now started to jerk in the stand or wobble something lightly and last night motor lamp flashed when I turned off and again it was gone once again. I read together with a friend the error memory then deleted a lap drive and read again and there came 2 errors and was once active motor bearing electric error code is 2FAB. And the second was motor oil pressure sensor, S ignal error code is 30C3. Can someone help me with this?

I made all the tensioners and belts with my m54b22 motor and since today I hear a funny clack from the engine compartment. I started the engine without the belt the clacking was still, all spark plugs are also fixed. I also add a link to how it sounds https://youtube.com/shorts/JPT_LsLytZo?feature=share The car is currently logged off and I never let it run for a long time almost every 2 days I hit it and run for 5 min, this can also crack cause?