Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Hello, for two days I have been a freshly baked audio owner, an a4 avant 1.9TDI. with the car I am highly satisfied, only the sound still makes me worry. it is a radio chorus built in, which I want to keep, because it fits a) well into the armature board and b) the original audio accessories is too expensive for me. however, on better sound I do not want to do without it. first of all new speakers have to come here, at the front I have already built in a 13er system, still missing an active sub. and that brings me right to my question: have the radio not yet expanded, does it have a pre-out, to which I can connect an active sub? In order to the invisibleness of the tuning measures I wanted to get a blue point THB200A, which then disappears under the seat. maybe I would also get an active box for the suitcase room, however, should then in contrast to the blue point also mean a clear sound improvement. a passive sub-solution comes not t in question, because I have no desire for large-scale construction work and at level is not my main focus either.

Hi! One can ask a question … I’ve installed this capacitor of AIV today .. so far so good … already far too much blue light but am satisfied ^^ Only one thing I don’t understand … I only run the capacitor on my PA2802 … the amperemeter shows up to 150A with strong bass but! That would be 1875W with 12,5V expected!?!?!? Is the PA “something” stronger than I thought or is the display so extremely inaccurate?? Would it be cool if someone could explain to me how for God’s sake 150A from me in the two acid batteries can come out ^^ Many greetings

Hello, I have the Rainbow SLX 265 Deluxe on an μDimension 5.4X and find the tweeters really too bright. First I simply put them to listen on the dashboard and tried out different positions. Against the disc, indirectly, up… Nothing really 100% was there. Then I simply built them into the original tweeters “schat” of my Golf 3. Of course still sounds too grim. So it bites right in the ears. On the EQ from the radio I can still save a little bit of the time. but it’s still nothing true. Now someone has told me something about bipolar electrolyte capacitors that you should order in the thickness 2.2mf and 250V to switch them in front of the tweeters so that they don’t take the middle high-tone range with you anymore. Has anyone ever done this before? Opinions? Experience? Thank you for every post, jelly

Tag! The system is completely built-in and consists of Pioneer MP3 Radio, Hertz HSK165 and Hertz ES250 and unfortunately still a Magnat amplifier. Somehow I’m not satisfied with the sound at all!! The bass is good, only the front system sounds just funny … Voices of e.g. Bon Jovi are really annoying in the ears, although it is not hissing or shrill. Now I have tried with the Equilicer on the radio and when I choose the setting Vocal it sounds a lot fuller, and w I’m back on flat and I’m just missing everything at the front. What can that be? Doors are insulated with Brax, doorboard is still set…. Classical music like the musical Elisabeth sounds good again, at least I didn’t notice that the basic tone is missing. What can I do? lg Mo

Hello, I have a question: have nn a3 with (think I times) partially active system. Have front 2 boxes in n doors, then stillma 2 with the door openers (the very small) two with the covers of the back bench and still nn audio-subwoofer in the suitcaseaum… except for the subwoofer I am also far to be satisfied as it sounds at the moment. just want the bass to be a bit fuller, because the stop is so net the roarer I don’t mean that I want to shoot the suitcaseaum with a 5000W endstue fe und subwoofern ohne ende, so no box beer fits in any more 😉 I asked at acr in the vicinity, how it looks, with such subwoofers that one “screws” into the hut rack. the meant something you don’t do nowadays, just doesn’t sound “so” good… is that really true? would I just rather be because of the place. And how is that with net power amplifier, if I want to have the only one for subwoofers, is actually enough a mono power amplifier, right? how much power should d he have? as I said, I don’t want to sound in the inner city, just n bit more bass thanks a lot, mfg flxx

I have installed my system today (with help): FS system via crossovers on channel 1u.2 Sub-rigged on 3+4 The connections are OK From the radio a cinch cable(+/-) goes to the amp(GZ HA4150x). But at the amp there are for the 2 cinch cable 4x line(1,2,3,4) in and 2x line out! No matter how I connect the thing, there are only 2 of the 3 things!Either sub+ 1fs or both fs. Do I just need to make a y-adapter to 2 cinch 4?? I don’t have a plan what I could do.

hello together, I have a 70 ah battery on my car and would like to install a second one in a trunk, this should have about 36 ah.. can I connect the directly plus to plus and mass to mass without anything in between ?? if both are charged? greet you

Hello, I got me an old Signat Mark 2 Mark II, this works as far as perfect, only one problem I have. And indeed I gave the screw the grace shot when connecting the plus cable So the Signat does not have a connection for a cable with a cable shoe, but those, in which one goes directly with the cable and then fixed with a screw (made screw or as the name is) . However, this screw was already very round and when I screwed firmly, the cable was seems not to be far enough in the terminal and so I turned the screw empty, and that is until it is standing down. But now I can’t get it out anymore, as the screw is already too round as I said. What possibilities do I have now to get it out? Can I maybe weld a screwdriver or the like on the screw and then turn it out? Yes, I know, on such an idea only I probably come up with, but otherwise I don’t really think of anything. Gi bt also these pastes that you put on the screw so that the screwdriver doesn’t spin any more, but it didn’t do anything. Otherwise, I just remembered to drill the screw out (from the front) and then solder the cable (so fill the terminal with solder and then put the cable in). But if that’s how it works? What would you do? MfG, Diddy

Moin! Installation is in it, but I don’t like it at all Still missing door insulation (have 6-8 mats still) and tomorrow still adjust everything, power amplifiers radio and so on. Hope we didn’t do anything wrong, so have an Eton PA 1054 and Sub (see signature), didn’t know exactly how we had to do this with the power amplifier and the bass. Did + – and +- from the Eton do in the four sockets of the sub, is that right? Wanted to chase bridges and 4 ohm with 660 watts into the sub. Hope you can me Did I do something wrong? Were 8 hours in the rain today…. So the question is if I connected the right thing, where you have to break like on the final stage, but the …. Sub has four exits. Use some help gruss OLLI (I’m fixed and ready) +400KM autobahn 😛

How strongly does a long or long power cable affect the current of the system? At the moment it looks like this: about 5 meters 50 cables go to the rear, from there a 20s and a 10s go away to the power stages (each about 3 meters go off from the 50s) Now it is so when too low bass comes (properly low) then the sub-power stage goes on Protectet. Now I have a Banner Running Bull battery in the car (AGM, 70Ah, 720A) The power stage stays on now. So if I drive at night with switched on L Icht then the power amplifier goes back on protected with low bass. it can lie on the too long cable, are indeed about 8-9 meters to the end stage. Oh yes and a power cap also hangs before the power amplifier.