Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Hi! I was taken yesterday by someone and my car doesn’t look so great anymore *G*. If it’s possible I’ll have it repaired. But if it doesn’t work, I’d be interested if I could get money from the insurance company of the culprit for the materials I built in. So bitumen, GFK, Perfect Silence, power cable etc. Because that’s about 300 euros from the material value.

servus. bin eine kleine bissel bewildert: had only been recommended following components from all forums: tuned to techno up to synthesizer, KLANG stood in the foreground! Amp Rodek R4100A 300€ Sub Emphaser EBR112XT 300€ LS Canton CS 2.16 from 130€ was now at ner private-installation forge: in my eyes very competent, the good says itself that the people recommend only what they experienced as well and of course belongs to “their” brands. the frame was about 800€: Audi o System Twister F4-240 300€ (whereby the “small” twister is worse than the rodek in the autohifi than the larger one and no phase shift has – sonic but should be top) sub: syrincs vb 12-200 350€ (whereby also worse than the emphasizer in the autohifi section, a pile of ash costs, but with less performance should bring better sound, even with gaaaaanz quiet passages) LS: helix 165er (description is no longer known) approx. 250€ (should sound better than the Canton 2) .16) cap would be a MUST, because of tips and headlights flicker. (where the discussion was that with smaller amps a thick cable would suffice) so, now you.

Hey, I’m about to get a Golf Gl where there’s only one cassette deck and the standard boxes in it.Since I don’t want to record cassettes or sing along because of too quiet sound, I urgently need advice.As already said, I’m completely at the beginning and have garnix…except for a quiet car *g* My budget is really limited but I don’t have any idea of prices…I see how much I get to give because it all comes into the car..So I need a radio (so 200€) and ne Final stage (no plan) then a good sub that also bangs…and then I nciht if I should only replace the standard boxes or at the back also ncoh boxen should pop in. that’s a 5-doorer therefore I could also build into the doors what in.So if jmd. what good white should he give me please nen tip.Radio is first very important and if jmd. the installation dimensions of the golf (’91 1.8l 90hp 19E) for boxes he could also please tell me.I need real help otherwise I doubt. I can only say hip hop and trance…Thank you very much, Freddie.

Hi, I bought myself a power amplifier (blue point 4100B), speaker and a Bas tube about 1 week ago. It happened to me three times now that when I turn up the music (music comes from an iPod = MP3 player with headphone output) after a few minutes a swarm of rotting cables comes to me (possibly through the ventilation, or at least with the airflow). I then of course always immediately turned off the music. The smell is then immediately gone, and comes The “normal” music operation can be continued without any problems. Now my question: Can someone explain the smell differently than by overloading a cable? (For the power supply I took a cable with 10mm^2 transverse cut; for the power amplifier is recommended according to instructions at least. 6mm^2) I can hardly imagine that this cable heats up so much. The only cable that could otherwise be the “remote” connection. However, since I do not use a car radio built, but only the iPod, I have built in a switch and what as a “remote-connection” to the back to the power stage goes via the switch at the normal current surge for the car radio. On this circuit also 2 LEDs are attached as control lights, whether the power stage is on. (Parallel, not in series switched) But here should only minimal current flow, right? the LEDs will not make it out, and the power stage still shows over the remote connection Power. Does anyone know advice?

Good evening friends of the nice sounds, I have here a little problem. Should a new radio install, after that fell on that one of the rear speakers was defective, so 2 new speakers were worried. Now however, completely the bass is missing. Radio is such an ultra cheap China 2 Din touchscreen thing – not the “deure” Android, but that really cheap. As far as I could find out it should have 20 watts on 4 channels. Whether by RMS or top is meant to be guessed. Speakers are Kenwood S6966, and I have to say the heights and how clear they are is really a very good increase compared to the original 6×9 in the hat rack. But what I’m surprised about is that there is no bass. A base drum in a metal song sounds like someone cut on a piece of wood. You can hear it that there should be something bass moderate, but that’s not a bass. Cable + / – I’ve already tried on both of them. Loudness on radio makes louder and the rest of the original loud sprec The sound of an old amplifier/amplifier is connected to one of the speakers and the bass is turned on – brings so much, that you can say “yes, there is more bass than with the Without speaker”. But that doesn’t sound like bass but rather as if something is going on. Am I right in the assumption that the speakers are somehow broken? How can I still test them so that I can exchange them?

Hello, in my Passat 3B I replaced the original VW Radio Beta with a JVC KD-DB622BT. There are only the two pieces of original speakers in the front doors, so no system with amplifier or similar. The expectation was to get at least as “good” sound as with the original VW radio and to have on top of it DAB radio and a Bluetooth interface. I got a grotesque bad sound, almost without depths, sounds “like out of the shoe box”. What’s this about? Is this radio model intended exclusively for use with an external amplifier? An acquaintance has in the Skoda Fabia instead of the original radio some old blue-point radio in it, there is the sound top, just as I would have expected from my JVC…

Lol somehow got a bite money on the account ALso it fits still nn tmt for the front pure I sachma even loose ne amp possibly even Well my question I might have to build the complete doorboard from mdf, what do you think of it?? So nothing with gfk all mdf are simple lines you should get from inside then possibly with bitumenspachtel or other means of covering the connections of each wood plate Would then quite gladly let the kicker on the door play and the tmt aufs board Now I need tmt Up to now I have decided for the following alpine 9855r if ned is too expensive at ebled or 9853r goes definitely phonocar kicker 2/737 carpower dt286 or 84, I mean at least TYes now tmt Does this all about r5adio by means of active soft??? if amp then the here http://www.hirschille.de/carhifi/product…roducts_id=2296 and what about it guys I need you

Meal… I’m currently riding a pair of Focal 165 K2P TMT’S, a pair of Carpower DT 284 HT’s and the crossover recommended by Carpower…drive is ne Carpower Wanted 4/320…the whole FS is attached to the carpower with 2*240 W RMS. Power is therefore more than enough. Since the Polo factory has nothing in it, I screwed an MDF to the sheet metal. And that’s sowa doors are sufficiently and absolutely densely insulated. So, now to the problem. The whole thing goes loud like sour…ABER, with hip hop and bass-heavy music the whole thing has absolutely no depth… with techno the thing goes very clever. What’s going on there??? If I read here with some always so and the part without sub only gurgling with FS and that’s enough and then also ask people where the sub is, although no one is there??!! My conclusion…with hip hop and other bass-heavy stuff the sub is really obligatory, or did I shoot a bug somewhere????

Hey, I have the following problem… So I’m happy with my front system, with my subwoofer and with the power amplifier – actually even with the speakers at the rear. However, I have the following problem… Everything runs to the rear system over power amplifier. Only the rear runs over the radio. I’m not content with the sound, it’s also intended to support passengers who are sitting in the rear and want to see something else besides BUMM BUMM. However… , the front system so on a third approx. only the rear system, which can not be adjusted by a controller (logically, is not at any power stage) is too loud to me. And by that I mean very loud. If I set the front system so that it fits and the rear system only plays for the rear, one hardly hears the sub anymore. I just can’t find a suitable overall picture. and since my radio has only 2 chinch outputs, and the radio is so “quiet”, this with the balance controller is fix with to dim If I want to make the rear boxes quieter, the system has lost its meaning. Since I can only change the overall volume. Is it very complicated,but don’t find any more suitable words… Now I had a snap idea earlier… what if I get a cheap power amplifier and stick to the rear system, and let it function as a volume control? At worst, the signal remains that spits out right in the middle of the one that comes in with input, doesn’t it? Or sc I just want to get my rear speakers quiet…. and my sub again nice loud that it fits the front system…. Help 🙁 Achja and tips like “back you don’t need any speakers” do not come to me on fertile ground, since it’s really a sound to sit in the back when listening to music…. What kind of cheap parts can you recommend to me? Can really be the cheapest of the cheapest, h Auptsache the sound doesn’t get much worse and you can control the volume at them to some degree exactly…. And if it’s still n bitl playing with frequencies, then I can finally take the low frequencies out of the speakers and let them play alone the middles and heights 😉 Thank you Thank you!!!

Hi! Got a little problem, well question… I only have a very small system at home. I kind of have a kind of frequency hole. In the range of about 500Hz. So there’s something to hear, but somehow the kick is missing with the high sounds, as well as you know it out of the car. You know, when such a guitar plays, the lovely twitching and the clear crisp tones. How can I get this with the 8band EQ. I make it easy. I set my EQ like this. He has a scale from +10 to -10. I have set it following. 31Hz: -1 (why is below) 62Hz: -2 125Hz: +3 250Hz: -1 500Hz: -3 (I know that I don’t need to be surprised that 500Hz doesn’t come so much, but I don’t mean that too. I mean the crispy one. If I give more horns only slightly) 1KHz: +2 2kHz: +1 4KHz: -2 8KHz: -2 16KHz: +1 I took out the 30Hz bits because I have a Sunfire that has enormous low bass raising that a I’m looking for the crisp sound. I don’t know what it’s all about… I have a stinky normal Aiwa package system. 2x2Ways LS plus 2x2Ways LS as Sourround 1x Sunfire Subwoofer Maybe you know…