Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Hi, guys! Well, I’ve already started a thread here, namely this one: http://www.motor-talk.de/t65415/f8/s/thread.html Now I’ve been to the ACR and tried out various bass boxes. Simply cross everything. Tape passes, reflex boxes, closed boxes. My result: everything sounds like shit! Only the loudsärke changes… that can’t be!! Every box just vibrated and buzzed in front of it. Dammit shit! Something doesn’t have to say with my config. Men… However, when I sat in the back and watched the membrane of the woofer, I noticed that it swings very unusually. I have the feeling that she somehow doesn’t really know where she wants to go. She vibrates (very violently) a few times forward and back and sometimes, when a stronger bass comes, he hits out for a short time. A real kickbass however never comes about. The bass sounds more like “DOING”. Very strange. I already have headaches from the most tested and back pain of towing, always the same. I had the lowpass filter at about 60 Hz. However, when I turned on the highpass filter of the power stage and set it to about 180, I noticed that the Membram behaved much better. It was nice and clean with the bass. However, of course, the whole thing was too quiet and you can talk about kickbass. I had as first time an Axton CAB 107 or what the name is (the 12s just) tried out, because a buddy of mine has the same (just the old version). He has installed it in a 3 BMW. So a step-hecklimo, where the trunk is completely closed, and that sounds so awesome. On the other hand, with me only stupid head massage by vibration. Really corrosive… When I sit with him on the back seat, I always have the feeling that it would smash my chest at any moment, but with me it’s more like if ever the moment my head bursts… that can’t be!! Guys, help me!! Please! I’m in despair!! If it helps, I tested these boxes: Axton CAB 107, a few crunch boxes (all closed), a bass reflex by Crunch and ne Hifonics Zeus. I didn’t trust the emphasers, because they would have shot my final stage…

Hello together, I have the remote parking in my Panamera. Unfortunately this does not work because Apple Carplay is always there between sparks. Of course, the Porsche app as well as Apple CarPlay use both Bluetooth. As soon as I start the car with the Porsche app to start the remote parking, Apple Carplay also starts. The Porsche app has an active Bluetooth connection, since now Apple Carplay also starts, it also uses Bluetooth to connect the iPhone, which breaks the Porsche app The connection is off. A dilemma, because remote parking is just meant to be when you have been parked, to drive the car over the app again. But it’s not possible, since AppleCar always sparks between. Does anyone know the problem? Maybe a solution?

H y people On AliExpress there are 9″ radios that can be installed in the car instead of the old without display. They often have 4gn RAM and cost around 100€. On classified ads and also online you find the same products however around 350€. It would be for a Hyundai i10. The parts have navi GPS rear view camera in addition etc. How are the parts qualitative? Can you buy the stuff? Or rather one from Germany which the seller himself has from AliExpress and sells around twice? Thanks e for your esteemed opinion!

Hello together, Since I want to use the so-called parking mode with the Dashcam, I have ordered an extra cable, which must be connected to mass, duration and ignition plus. Duration and ignition plus I took off from the radio after testing with multimeter. But camera does not work if I ignite. However, if I separate the duration plus first, and only connect again, when I have ignited, it works. Where is the error ? Can someone give a hint ?

One question to the experienced audio experts: I would like to bring some sound to my A4 B5. It doesn’t have to blow your ears out, but it should be enough for everyday life. Best for the original sizes: 13cm compo for front and 16.5cm coax for back. Also, of course, a suitable amplifier. For everything together I would have a budget of roundabout 500€. Since I am relatively new in the audio area and my internet searches have only turned out nonsense I ask here for some Hil Thank you in advance

Servus, in my case everything is going to disappear somewhere. and I know exactly how I get against it. my first point: kicker and sub deletes at about 70Hz. then I got the sub polarized, then I get an erasure at about 50Hz. against that I would probably arrive if cih separates the kicker steeper and possibly n bissl higher. but I can adjust the flank part nciht, stands fixed on 12dB/okt. If cih simply separate higher, something is missing in between. ch there by raising the frequencies with nem Equi? or can I additionally take the soft from the radio to get it a bit steeper: radio -12dB/Oct at 63Hz + Amp -12d/B at 70Hz?) next problem is the deletion of the two TMTs against each other at about 200-320Hz, since I come by by polarizing the right one, then I get there problems mim kicker, and if I then also polarize it again, does this again problems mim Sub. how do I get there? helps in the case ne LZK?

Hello, so I now have to go out to my Autoraio Chinch and have to go over to boxes/speaker cables, my question is there an adapter that supports this if yes where do you call it, if this should not be the case you can share some of the cables from the chinch that are in there so that it works but doesn’t know which ones belong together…?? THANK YOU for every information!

I’ve been searching for information for a long time but neither found in the web nor directly here in the forum. it’s high input level inputs of a Mac Audio Mac Attack 600 amplifier. after 2 moves I can’t find the DBA anymore. Now I’ve changed the car and would like to use this from BMW original radio. As this doesn’t have a low level out I want to use the high level input of my end stage. The amplifier has 6 ch. each for low and high input. For high input there are 3 books I can’t see which pin + and which one is. I’ve already written to Mac Audio but they can’t help me, because it’s an older end stage that won’t be supported after taking over the company… Now I’m standing on the hose. Maybe someone has a similar end stage, e.g. Mac Attac 200 or 400, or just know how the pins can be used. I have opened the case to see if there is a name on the board but unfortunately only ch1+2 … 🙁 Thank you for any information in advance. Rob. PS. the sockets look like this from the ° ° ° ° , so with 4pins each. I have seen with a newer power stage name like: +–+ but again with other +-+- now I don’t want to break anything and just connect to pi-mal-daumen. PPS. Can unfortunately not take a photo today… if I want to do it tomorrow and 😉

have mine box finished but somehow it’s not the yellow of the egg yet. have bass are yes also 3 85 tubes inside but if hard bass is it starts to flutter (as if there is too much counterpressure. so tubes taken out no bass more ears shortened ( since teleskob still not much better manufacturer details 1 bass 30 liter 100er tube I have about 70 liters 3 85er tubes

Hi guys, after about three years in which I sweated and sweated water and fried a lot of coal my little one is finally “almost” finished. To thank you for the good tips and the improvement of my knowledge I put in some photos of my Civic. So here are a few. hope it works