Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Hi, I have 200 € left and need a power amplifier. Can someone recommend a good 4-channel power amplifier, which is about in this price range? 30 € back or forth, that doesn’t matter. (Have heard that Kenwood power amplifiers are rocking, but I’m not sure about that). The power amplifier should operate a subwoofer (I haven’t yet and if someone knows a good one . . . maybe from velocity or next, should cost 200 €) and a 2-way system from Canton (was once a 3-way system but I don’t think I’ll bring anything with extra subwoofer anyway). So, write everything, links would be right for me. Think you already have a clue about this, maybe more than I do! Mfg, Daniel

HI A friend of mine will be flying to the states soon and I’ll think about whether I should let him bring me the following cd-tuner: ALPINE CDA-7995 Here’s a link with product description:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?… Inch and so there’s no problem, I’ve asked myself. I’m also aware of the problem with the warranty. Of his specifications, the CD-tuner seems to be above the 7894. Now my question: Would you buy it at a total price of 350 € ?? (i.e. incl customs, control etc) It does not have an internal amplifier, which is not bad, however, as it comes anyway to a 4 channel + mono amplifier… MfG ANDi

Hi I just wanted to say that I have to move the picture to tomorrow! the digicam will net as I want mfg Fiesta

Hey guys, I know this topic has already been chewed X ma by… but I’ve been reading the same cable in all forums for weeks now, change mass point etc. etc. with me is the following test. when I have the car out comes a little bit out because boxing with a crack and as soon as I start, there’s this annoying whistle I’ve checked all the cable variations cables are laid separately (Chinese middle, before driver side, plus right) I’ve also already got a 2nd cable v asked mass of the battery to pick up that brings all nothing also a stop filter I tried God was thanks I got my money back that stayed even without success endstuff, all cables I have already exchanged to see if it’s on because cables is the 3rd car where I now install my system and it just doesn’t want to work! I’m really desperate I hope someone can give me a tip with which I could possibly still solve it! in short: chinch in the middle, Plus Bei driver, mass strap screw back bench (mass of battery has brought nix) cable and amplifier replacement just as little used….

Hi, I’m on the we unfortunately my woofer burned down. the components: AMP: DLS A6 monoblock, over 1000W.rms at 2 ohms, outstanding damping factor SUB: Hollywood Edge 1524 D4, 38cm Subwoofer 2×4 Ohm double swing coil AND: additional battery Stinger SPV35, disconnection relay and wiring 35mm2 box: about 90 liters (in a 1ser trunk!!) with self-made pre-calculated wooden port woofer has been recorded over 40 hours with 20 Hz and nem stroke from 5 to 20 mm free-hanging the lifetime was a week! settings at the amp were 2/3 load, separation at 75 Hz, the engine was running, amp wasn’t even warm at the housing, and time of the music about 30 seconds woofer has worked many times on the same day but never for long! after that the woofer fell out and squirted fiercely in front of him oh and he wasn’t clipping! how can I prevent such a thing?? I can’t touch the magnet and control the temperature! what should I do??

Hello MusikFreunde. i currently have: a 4 channel endstage (sony xm-440ex) that supplies the soundboard and the sub. the front system runs directly via radio. now I want my sub “emphaser EI 2S4”, maybe one knows, with an additional endstage entertained. I thought of the “rodek R2100A2”, because I can get the very cheap. what do you think about it? from the endstage sub. and how do I connect the second endstage? data of the endstage: 2 x 110W RMS @4ohm 2 x 150W RMS @2ohm 1 x 300W RMS @4ohm gebrückt. da diesen daten unfortunately not tell me much, and I only see 300W, I want to ask you experts how I can get the maximum power out of the amplifier for the sub. a sketch would be great! thanks to all of you!

I bought 2 body sound converters from Sinus Live. The Bass Pump III. ICh already had a cheap version, as they are also offered at Ebay. I had them on the PC on the desk chair. That was quite cool – until my little sister got stuck in the cable. Anyway, I bought the good originals this time and they should be in the car. I feel good about the bass, but I don’t always want to make my hearing so loud. will set the parts so that the effect is in the realistic range, so that it fits to the heard bass volume. Please don’t make any discussions about the meaning of these parts. I have already pushed it. With the search function I have found that many people believe the bass pumps, would be to be seen as an alternative to subwoofers and therefore they tempt off as nonsense/weakness. No, they are not an alternative – they should not be at all. It is purely about the subj This is what we would have solved and I can go over to the actual question: According to the operating instructions you should screw the bass pumps with the vehicle floor. Push the seat to the front, remove the carpet, screw on the bass pump, finish. I once sniffed a VW car dealership with a mechanic from the Karrosserie department to ask on I could possibly meet some wires. That would probably not be a test. lem. But he feared that the sheet metal was so strong, with thickness and shape, that it could not be stimulated to swing. Hmm… now experience values are in demand! You don’t drill such a farware floor if it is not sure that the result is as it should be. Has someone already installed such a thing? and can tell me if the vehicle floor is suitable? If so, I would find this an ideal assembly site, as the effect appeared realistic when everything was vibrating the floor. On the other hand, you could screw the parts to the seats, as I had on the PC chair before, but then the seat mainly vibrates and because you feel nothing at the feet, you might rather notice that it is not real. Again. Please only comments that concern the assembly and do not doubt the meaning.

Hello community, my problem I already got in the title but I will get out for a short time. So the subwoofer (JBL Stage 1200b Belief with 4 Ohm and 250w RMS) is in use for more than a year with a Magnat Pantera Two. In addition, a capacitor of Crunch is installed. In combination everything worked perfectly. Last time I accidentally let music run on battery and at some point the battery was empty. The car is no longer a I wanted to listen to music on my way to work in the morning, but then I realized that the bass was missing somehow. After the work, everything went on again. A few days later, nothing went on until the whole day and only after 20-45min the bass came back somehow. If the subwoofer doesn’t work, then the standard loudspeakers sound like o b they were completely deprived of the bass and as if the heights are very distorted. Well, yesterday I installed a new battery (maintenance-free) and the first test still didn’t work. Couple minutes later after starting again everything went and I thought the problem was solved. The battery is new, the radio goes on, the capacitor has enough voltage I think (between 12,3-14,5 [unit is missing]), the power stage shows however no functionality in the form of light the LEDs. The fuse from the power amplifier is not through and the main fuse proximity of the battery can not be through either, since the capacitor actually draws power from there. Does everything seem to work, just not stop from the beginning. So what could the problem be? If more information is needed for a remote diagnosis simply write as a comment! I hope on help! Best regards

Hello, I have a RIESEN problem here. I recently installed a new front system (Mac Iron 2.16 in the Golf 3) and it hangs on my 4 channel power amplifier (Pyle QA 4400 III, 70W RMS) O.k. it’s just beginner compo. and without insulation of the doors it will never sound perfect. So much is clear. But what doesn’t make sense to me at all is the benefit. Honestly, the maximum level of the system at the power amplifier is ridiculous, comparable to my 6*9 coax on the radio. NO WITZ! With minimal higher volume they already sound overdrived. Further a brittle sub hangs on the 4 channel, which runs (for my conditions) with good pressure. I know that the Mac Iron 2.16 can’t get quite at Cantons or so, but nevertheless I can expect good sound or level, right? According to the test these are “very good”. A few data – power power amplifier on channel at 4 Ohm: 70W RMS – front system: 90W Nominal, 150 Maximum, 91db My question: Where could the problem lie? I mean 70W R MS would have to be enough to assign the system if even the sub is well supplied (by the way also Mac Audio 🙂 Bass Reflex box) And please NO suggestions about other boxes, amplifiers and so on I BET for this there can be reasons, PLEASE give me some! So, who made the trouble to read this, THANKS!!!!!

Power amplifiers: A 4 channel power amplifier, on which 1600 Watt stands from time austria (no sub-output, frequency response not adjustable) A 5 channel power amplifier incl. subwoofer output from Gelhard (frequency response for all channels separately adjustable), watt power I can not say exactly, but is not much. Parallel to the power amplifiers is connected a 1F Powercap. Boxing rear: bass roller “Jensen Rocket 1000″ – 360 Watt, 25 cm diameter 3 ways 6”x9” coaxial system, 2 times ~ 150 Watt 2 ways 4”x6” Coaxi al System, 2 times ~ 120 watts (not yet connected) boxes in front: none yet, but there’s still a 2 way system in there, possibly also a mid-low driver and a tweeter separated – what can you recommend there? Currently the bass roller at the sub output hangs from the Gelhard power amplifier, also rumps quite well, but it still doesn’t reach the limits. Where do I best connect what? Should I set another monoblock for the roll in, or do my components suffice? PS: My license plate vib How stupid because of the bass roll, I thought about building foam between body and no sign. Do you have a better idea? Silicone? Thanks in advance greeting Wobl