Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Hi, in parallel to my question about a clever subwoofer I have to find a new power amplifier. I had the Kenwood KAC-848 in it now, not so bad at all. Because of some scratches and since it brings me more than I paid, I sell it now. I then have a maximum of 120€ for a power amplifier. And I already know the Wanted but I don’t want to save 40€ anymore. So again a 4-channel, first was planned 2-channel + monoblock, which is a front system and a sub antr I’ve really fallen in love with you ! And that’s here ! The final stage is from a good manufacturer , has plenty of power for what I will have in the car , looks awesome and the price is right too . Unfortunately , unfortunately already over – but there will be one soon . Otherwise I have picked out the following : -Helix -Ground Zero What do you say ? Thanks and fG , ms

Yesterday I got my Alpine 7894RB and of course I installed it immediately. The radio certainly has its charms (it has often been praised here in the forum), otherwise I would not have bought it. However, I find it almost frightening for this price, which is not a dot matrix display installed. I had a JVC KD-SH99R (one of the first ever) and am used to relatively many settings and a comparatively good diplay (e.g. brightness regulation display in 10 Schrit) I also find it bad, that if the next song is selected for the first 2 seconds only song number and folder number are displayed and not immediately the name of the song or similar. (I don’t remember which of the 150 songs on a CD in folder 20 is number 12). With my “criticism” I don’t want to make the alpine worse than it is, but just point out weaknesses. The radio costs a whole rod of money and is considered a high-end device. With the technical refinements I will be busy in the next few days (LZK) and then write something about it again. So long…

http://www.andreas-freis.ru.tc [email protected] I bought myself a new subwoofer, Magnat Xpress 1200 180 Watt sine(stands on the package). ICh heard that you should play subwoofers, how far is that true? If that were the case then it would certainly be in the instruction of the subwoofers, right? Besides, I connected the sub to 100 Watt sine, so I can’t burden it completely. What do you think about that??? I had a subwoofer before (subwoofer from subwoofer from subwoofer from subwoofers). the Michael Schumacher Collection) shot down, after six days. I turned up full from the first day on that went well but when I played bass test music, which I downloaded from the internet, ( also full volume ) the subwoofer after a while smelled funny and afterwards made only a funny noise. The sub had 240 Watt sine and was connected to 100 Watt sine. I hope you can help me further.

This evening, on 24.04.03 between 17:00 and 21:00 in Berlin Steglitz, they stole my car radio.http://www.preiswertes-car-hifi.de/temp/Camry_Einbruch-05-320.jpg http://www.preiswertes-car-hifi.de/temp/Camry_Einbruch-10-320.jpg Warnen als Pioneer DEH-6100. Wasn’t really thinking that a break-in in the early evening would risk it and that at a somewhat busy corner during the business time. Well, at least the person(s) did. The serial number is PIP610Y01738xx and ABTM029048W, if one of you sees or gets offered a DEH-P 6100R. For hints that lead to the seizure of the perpetrator, I buy a purchase voucher from the car stereo shop for more than 200,– Euro. If you want to get a copy of the DEH-P 6100R, please contact us.

Hey sorry, if the topic was already (too) often dealt with, but the search unfortunately doesn’t lie. And indeed a 16er system has to be in the doors! Today I was short at the ACR to see what they have there or what they would recommend to me up to 200,-: The guy was absolutely thrilled by the Rodek RC162RP (170,-), especially because of the tweeter…should sound very musical. When I brought the Focal 165V2 into play, it didn’t hold so much of it…..extorted, overpriced, Focal is not anymore The tweeter should not be the bringer either. What do you think about it? Do you have alternatives? You can hear a lot of good from Rainbow. Or Exact, GZ, Hifonics? Do you suggest something, am absolutely undecided As I said before: price up to 200,- and all-round qualities. Radio is an Alpine 9812 and as a power stage should again a bridge 75.4 or 105.4 pure. In my old Audi I had the combination of Alpine 9812, Bridge 75.4 and Focal 165V2 in it and was eige But if you can get better for the same money… ..why not?

I want to connect 3 speakers per door, BUT I have to let them run over one channel, so far so good. There are 2x 3-way boxes ( 165mm ) and 1 x 1-kickbass. ( 130mm ) So now the question how do I do it to make it work best. The problem is that the two 165mm speakers have 4Ohm and the kickbass has 8Ohm. Furthermore, they all have a different nominal and maximum load. 1x 3-way LS 165mm with 4Ohm and 260 watts peak (unrealistic value, but what other 1x 3-way LS 165mm with 4 ohms (no watt input) 1x Kickbass 130mm with 8 ohms and 60 watts (no matter if sinus, RMS or maximum ??) so you see my little problem, I want to connect all LS gladly, but don’t know as well as, in row ?? will certainly not get out at 16 ohms. All three parallel ?? would then have to be about 1.6 ohms ( final stage no idea if that is going along, it runs stable on 2 ohms, but for 1 ohm it is not designed, so k.a. if 1.6 in it si nd. Or should I just clamp a 0,4 ohm resistor so that I have 2 ohms ?? Or should I switch everything in parallel and clamp a resistor in addition to the weaker LS so that they don’t get that much ?? If yes, can one tell me how much ohm I have to take so that I can keep a certain wattage from the LS?? Or group ?? the kickbass with an LS in parallel and then the other LS in row ?? Should then be about 7 ohm. I want logically I’m afraid that all LS will get rid of it, but I’m afraid (since all have different performances ) that I’ll have a mix then, so that an LS is already at the limit and that maybe doesn’t even use its rms performance. And that’s where I’m not getting any further in the planning right now. So help!! Well, I’d let myself be beaten wide to give up one of the 3-way LS, but I want 1 LS and the Kickbass in any case and as I said, only 1 channel left for that. So that I can get rid of all LS, but I don’t want to have 1 LS and the Kickbass in it and as I said, only 1 channel left for that. hope some of you have some suggestions. Thank you Michael

Search: Amplifier for the subwoofer. Will: over 400W at 4 Ohm, over 800W at 2 Ohm… possible 1 Ohmstabilität… Price: No real idea. It should somehow lie between 200 and 600 Euro. What should not be: US-Amp, cogeneration plants that need without end power without implementation… So I’ve been looking for a while, and somehow hang around the digital monoblock. After I’ve seen and heard the Carpower Wanted 800-D times, I’m not sure if I really want to. On the other hand, The 800-D is not the best thing to get money for the batch. I have now looked for the impulses. The SD-1200 seems optimal, but you don’t necessarily get new, always only the SD-1500. ESX Vision is also nice, but is a bad damping factor what to expose to the impulses? Can other stages in the price range this much better? Jo, in principle this is the thing. What do you think about it? am I on the wooden way? you really get more than 1000Watt from the SD-1200 at 2 ohms? Does the digital level bring the same “powers” as an 800-watt analog level?

Have found a good (German) program for calculating housings: Bass-Cad Now I’ve played around a bit, but it’s all a mystery to me! If I enter the recommendation of Ground Zero, there’s the drawing: -3 dB at 34Hz and max 8dB at 52Hz?? Does this mean that the lowest frequency is now 34Hz …. If I play a bit I also get to -3dB at 18Hz and max 0dB at 51Hz What should I do? Which values should come out of this? Is this ever a good (German) program for calculating housings: -3dB at 18Hz and max 0dB at 51Hz What should I do? depending on my possible space/volume in the car? Maybe someone can help me! Have a box in the car below, which, however, is so big with 250L that I can not get my back seats in more. But would like to have it back again!

Hi So I finally got a couple of photos to take. It’s not quite finished yet, there will come a plate with fabric that you can only see the two end stages cut-outs. In the right side part my changer sat in until a few days ago. The radio front is perhaps a matter of taste but I find it just awesome also from the design it likes. The subwoofer box is own, as well as everything else in the trunk also *g*. The left end stage is the 2channel and the right the 4channel. Have fun watching. Could tell me how you like it. Greet Linos Pictures:http://web126.server8.rhs-it.de/case space%20003.jpghttp://web126.server8.rhs-it.de/case space%20002.jpghttp://web126.server8.rhs-it.de/case space%20001.jpghttp://web126.server8.rhs-it.de/front%20001.jpghttp://web126.server8.rhs-it.de/end stage%20001.jpghttp://web126.server8.rhs-it.de/end stage%20001.jpghttp://web126.server8.rhs-it.de/end stage2%20001.jpghttp://web126.server8.rhs-it.de/DEH-P77MP%20001.jpghttp://web126.rhs-it.d. e/High toner%20001.jpg

hi saw this at ebay:http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?… and ask me now how he comes with 3 jl 10w0 to 4 ohm when he switches them parallel or in row? (see picture and text) after all he has only 1 cable to the end stage, so are all connected. can one explain to me ? I definitely don’t come to 4 ohm, no matter how I turn it and turn it. thank you 😉