Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Hello people! Now you are asked! One of our good old friends and hobby comrades, known under the account DiDan, was banished from the forum. The reason seems to be personal revenge of a certain moderator! Here we want to vote democratically now! That’s why I call !!! ALL !!! Forum members to vote: Who is in favor of DiDan being taken back here? And of course also: Who is not? I know, it’s a lot demanded of you, but this is like So take part in it. Everyone can make his or her opinion public without being held accountable for it now or at some point! So let’s go!

Hi So slow enough for me, I have now within half a year 2 Woofer to melt, although I don’t even hear so loudly, ok the low frequencies are already clear that they are not so good, but that can’t give after all if you hear from time to time to such songs that the Woofer is over At first it has caught Emphaser Xtrem T2 (real horny part!!) and 2 months ago the cheap Spectron Now the question is which Woofer should I get now, what is important to me, d as he can also play depth frequencies without giving up the mind immediately,and so to speak is an all-rounder (metal, techno, rap) What recommendations are there on your side? Should cost a maximum of 300 € and be available in the ACR or media market thank you in advance (if someone is so nice to write, so now is enough gschlimt)

hello at the moment I have a 2 way system with a passive soft got me a midrange driver, wants to make a three way system out of it and the whole should run actively but heard that a 3 way system has to be done very well so what sounds like in the car,then I will go to a expert now to my question how do I separate the whole best ? radio (dxz958)?,processor,passive or active soft what would sound be the best solution? mfg

such a cheekyness … as old farmer whiteness was considered earlier when the fuse in the end socket only has a 20 AMP dan can the power the RMS out does not come out much because the NET part can not pull much current … but now there is at ebay the first socket which does not fit in this genus and nevertheless should be mist or ??? But bordered not on if they write 4 X 220 Watt RMS ???? That has the nevertheless never in life … despite the 100 amp fuse ;-)))kuck you h he

Moin Jungs, have decided now to throw out my factory boxes and invest a little bit. I just want to use the existing recesses that would be there: – 10cm Front + HT – 13cm Rear + HT Both systems should not cost more than 150€ each and I would like to let them play only via the radio (Alpine 9812RR 4x60W max.). To get some pressure in the stomach, I want to expand my trunk, whether I don’t know now, but should seamlessly fit into the clan Is this possible at all, if yes, it is worth to install 2 subs? If not, I would need a final stage for front and rear, up to 200€. A sub should not cost more than 150€ and the appropriate final stage no more than 250€. My musical taste is mainly based on heavy metal, so I would like to hear a clean double bass if this is possible with a sub. Furthermore, the size of the sub(s) would be decisive. Prices sin d now roughly calculated, if there is money left, that would be very great hope, someone understands what I want and can help me further. Brands I prefer no, since I have no idea… Hold on, I don’t want to get called the name Magnat

Well, I just had to get back to the discussion about the rear racks opened by Marsupilami72 given – is really crass what you read there at times – finest literature No, seriously. Who thinks rear racks are the most dangerous, what you can build in the car, I will now teach him a better one. I saw recently such an extraüble driving around: speaker boxes lying on the rear shelf. Seriously: These were two boxes, one left, one right, on the rear shelf, the remaining I wouldn’t be surprised if the driver gets the boxes at his head, a frontal impact with a speed of 60-70 km/h and the boxes will be flying P.S.: I know that the previous thread on the topic of rear racks was blocked, dear mods, from me also locks this thread right after this post, I just didn’t want to keep this experience to myself *g*

So as soon as I have my car again (workshop) I want to make a few improvements. Unfortunately, I don’t know how to do it with the boxes & amplifiers yet but I like to learn about it ;o). I’ll list you quickly what I’ve installed at the moment so that you understand what it’s all about *g*: VORNE: I’ve installed the audio system PX 130 Pro – Performance Line in front (I think I’m good for the price & I can’t afford doorboards for 16’s -.-). öner die dabei dabei (Combo) Hinterten: Audio-System CO 165 *really ridiculous* Luggage compartment: Audio-System Twister F4-560 [Stainless steel] ;o) Bass reflex housing (replacement bracket 35-40 liters) equipped with the Audio-System X–ion 12 So what I wanted to do now is the following! It’s just about the part in the back, with the rest I’m too happy. The boxes in the back are already bullshit boxes ;o). In addition, the F-4 is fully occupied with bass and boxes in the front. That means the coaxial system in the back runs over d I have received the following offer: Twister F2-280 audio system (used) for 190€ instead of 300€ PX 165 per audio system for 150€ (then have also 2 tweeters playing from behind) Are these good prices??? I want a very good performance yield so that the 16’ers balance the smaller 13’s in their effect ( The guy wanted to do it just that way that my F4 then amplifies the boxes and the F2 is paired alone for the bass. (as far as I know it’s not possible from the slots at all). I don’t know what the things are good. Is the power amplifier good? The boxes? I just want what the really pressure is doing with the boxes… I also saw the audio system RX 165 Pro Performance Line, but do they make a big difference to the PX? Do you have any more ideas what you want to do? I am happy about good advice and possibly links for good boxes/power amplifiers. Mfg Snuff.

Hallihallo, Have for my Fiat Brava the following “equipment” Panasonic CQ-DFX572N amplifier Emphaser EA-475 Front Sinus Live ??? rear Kappa 1 CS SUb: JBL GT102 Well, I would like to build the sub into a tube or a housing. Can someone give me some useful tips, what to consider? How to install it around, membrane inside or outside? How big should the case or tube be? How long or how thick should a corresponding reflex tube be? that at all ? For quick tips I would be very grateful to you greetings from the Saarland Andreas

something bad happened… I went home from work earlier, made radio on, once again a loud whistle next to the music. strangely enough it wasn’t there 8 hours ago and I didn’t play anything at all in the time. it’s: again not speed dependent even at radio 0 whistles it I can not explain where that comes from at once!?? have also pulled off a short chinch cable but also there whistles it. so it can’t be from the radio already. I’m afraid I scraped you et… there’s no more performance, it’s all clipping early… fertile I tell you… who’s a tip what can be going on? where do I put it if I want to have it repaired?

I have an amp from Monacor Carpower (HPB 1002). Brings about 300 watts of RMS and a sub from Rockford Fosegate Punsh Z 3410 with 150 watts of RMS power. The amp runs to about 70% of its power! The manufacturer recommends to switch a 0.5 Farad Powercap! Is that necessary? Does that even bring something (better sound, release of Lima) in this performance class? Which cap is recommended? 0.5F or better equal to 1F?