Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Hello, I’m thinking of buying another sub, because my better half needs the current too much space in the suitcase room. it doesn’t have to make any level, but it should play in an extremely tiny housing as much as possible for music. if you still have left and prices that would be great. achso, the thing comes to the 5th channel of my (yes I know the thing is good net a lot, but it remains from various foundations (unfortunately) sinus live and gets at 4 ohms I believe around the 140W RMS loud m eating and at 2 ohms it would be just over 200. achso, money I have chronically almost none, so the thing should not be so expensive (rather very cheap). Used goods tips are therefore desired. would be grateful for tips

Cheers! I would like to think about my Christmas present so slowly, and this is supposed to be a powerful subwoofer for my room. So Home HiFi. So far I have a stereo Yamaha RX-E200 with two NX-E200 2-way boxes. And now I want to amplify this with a subwoofer in the bass area. The stereo has a sub-out, on which I want to connect the Woofer (or the Woofer Amp) and possibly cut off a little deeper, because the sub-out for my taste is a bit too high, I guess at about 300-400 Hz. 100-200 Hz with >10db/octave would be nicer. The sub should not make an infinite level, because I can not turn up so loud anyway. But it should not start to distort already at a bit more dB. So: volume but not at the expense of the sound. That is more important to me anyway, I would like to make the Woofer above all the lower octaves between about 15 and 80 Hz audible and above all noticeable. Music is a bit mixed, but mainly la Narrower, deeper bass, like U2, Phil Collins, Depeche Mode. Have already looked around a bit and have considered the Visaton SUB W-20.39. That would be very acceptable with 80 euros. I would of course need another amp, I would like to do the Woofer active. If someone has already had experience with the Woofer, would it meet my requirements? Price should not be more than 200 euros for Sub and Amp. So, even every as long posting is at some point to end e, Thanks for reading and thanks for your answers!! merendo

Hi guys, I own an e36er Limo. I own a JVC KD-SH55R radio, which currently drives the Kompo system from Bmw front and behind are oval boxes from Infinity (Ref 9603i) installed. (Please don’t scold because of rear-storage disease). As with us a lot is stolen I just want to replace the front speakers and hope that they harmonize well with the rear-storage box. Pricewise I thought so about about 100 to 150 Euro for the front speakers. It should also be the low-tonberic My car Hifi dealer recommended me the phase PC 130.20. The technical data also sound promising. starting from 39 Hz, 91dB sound pressure and 65W sine. But you experts certainly know other very good speakers, such as from Rainbow, Focal etc. The dealer explained to me that because of the design of the BMW speaker positions I would need a slightly softer membrane. He wouldn’t recommend a stiff membrane. ….Thank you very much for the…

Now post for the second time Can someone quickly calculate a box for me? Sorry, it’s not for the car, but for home use!Do you need the data for building a BR box though: Woofer chassis: 400/1200 rms/max – 8 Ohm 22-35 000 hz 99db resonance 34 hz Qts: 0.186 Vas: 223 l basket diameter : 386 mm insert deep 154 mm. So I already got wood, 19er mdf! I still have to cut today with the circular saw! How many liters do I need to get out most of it? Would you like a pressurized bass for techno /Hardcore! How big the box is, doesn’t matter, even the shape! so my questions: 1)dimensions box (liter) 2)BRR diameter 3)Which reinforcements inside the box or additional plates for better sound conduction Thanks in advance mfg

Hello I have a panasonic radio, and the front 2 speakers at the doors I have to walk over the radio and the rear 2 and the sub over an amplifier. now the question if I want to change the balance, and I turn over to the right only the rear 2 speakers and front the left speaker, and if I turn the balance to the left only the sub and front the left speaker must do so? and if I change the fade then happens garnix

meal people, I just installed a condenser with me and ask myself now how the thing goes out and if at all. the condenser is directly connected to the request. and connected to the carousel (with safety of course everything as it should be) now the condenser shows the tension although everything else is off. not that then tomorrow morning my bet is empty? instruction to the part I have net greetings

Hello friends!!! I’m looking for n langhubsub, 10″ best, final impedance 4ohm, so also D2, he has to be able to make hub until the sausage is completely strained. not smoke because of the performance and not hit with it. and also net mim membrane edge on the back and so joke. just so out of fun to QUÄLEN. sounded shit no matter I put myself anyway behind a suitcase room and laugh HAHAH. video I then put online. OG carauTCohanZZ

moin, a friend of mine drives an ej1 (civic coupe) and wants to polish up his, with permission, grotesque sound a little bit.There is a sony-HU (asks me which one exactly, I have to ask.estimate ma 100-140€ class). EDIT: sony cdx – gt 200s got him convinced to dam in front.So that’s taken care of. at the moment there are 16s mbQuart installed in front, but they sound very bad about “kaputt” or something. I have to take a picture… for the front we have now got a helix blue 62 mk2 for little money, and that is also the main point, WENIG money, but no scrap! reasonable beginner class is completely sufficient. a sub should be dispensed with first, for that also music should be present at the back (is a must). so only the standard recordings remain in the tray, should be thinning 16s, possibly also a bit bigger. bass should therefore, as far as possible, also o so, the whole fun is to heat a 4-channel, preferably used.price up to 100€. and now you are there… mfg

Hi, look for a good power amplifier. 4 kick basses and an Mb Quart front system should be used. Channel 1+2 for front and channel 3+4 for kick basses. Should sound good and have power i.e. about 200rms at 2Ohm for kick basses. Price up to 500€ but no audio systems

Hello, it’s been a long time since I converted my trunk as it is now (picture below in the appendix or in the Sig.). Unfortunately, I never got to complete it completely. Well, we come to the point and I have been playing with the idea to change the trunk for a long time and I would like to at least partly use it. It shouldn’t cost much in itself and I don’t want to do without any component. What would have to be accommodated: 2 Rockford power amplifiers 2 Subwoofers in a large box 1 Cap 1 extra battery I already have an idea I don’t know if it’s all so easy to realize. I thought the power amplifiers should be mounted one left and right behind the rear side claddings. How would I be able to fix them there without drilling holes? Possibly stick a piece of sheet metal to it with carrosserie glue and screw a piece of wood to attach the power amplifier to the wood? On one side I thought de The big subwoofer case as seen at the bottom of the picture has space for 3 woofers of which 1 woofer is no longer in it and the right one is. The case goes over the whole trunk width and I thought in the 3rd hole the battery somehow so that it also has a good hold. The two boot side panels are also no longer in it. I also want to get the wooden plates out of the trunk ha What do you think of the idea? Do you perhaps have better alternatives than I could do?