Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Hello friends, I was thinking, it would be great if we had an experience report corner! best a subforum like products or installation, where only reports are in it! that would be great, then everyone can write down his experiences and the other people can look for things you want to buy and get several opinions about it!!! or get ideas which level fits well to which FS and so!!! you don’t have to write about a product n but can also write about his FS and the corresponding level, how this is together, maybe still like it was compared with the other FS before and so! that has every hifi forum and here that still lacks! that is very helpful! what do you think of my idea? I would also be willing to look out for this subforum and so! mfg carauDDiohans

Unfortunately I had to find out that my remote from my Hu is too weak to turn on 2 amps. How can I solve the problem that the amps still tackle together when I turn on my Hu? I don’t have a relay or so now, but I still have to make it fun today!

Hi, help me a bit on the jumps, I can decide abolut nciht. To the selection stand: Xetec G1200 Audio System Twister F2 300 Steg k2.01 Two crunch basses, each 300W rms at 4 ohm are to be driven, I want to run them at 2 ohm. Later, maybe n new bass should be pure, but that stands ncoh in the stars, the crunch will remain ncoh for quite a while. From the performance all three end stages are quite the same. I have the Twister and the Xetec pr and I have to admit that I have not noticed any difference. Vll. is due to the bad basses, Vll. also on me the two 2 channels would run then then already at 1 ohm, the xetec would have the advantage possibly still to have reserve, if at some time I switch to 1ohm woofer. the after part: it fits because of the square form nciht in my gfk and I would have to change some things. So what would you take? I have ncihtmal nen favoriten

Servus, I’m looking for a proper front system for a buddies. I’m working on it all the time that the rear system is jackmist, but he absolutely doesn’t want to give up on it. “I’ve been like this for 10 years, that has to be like that, that’s shit if from behind garnix comes” He knows cars with very good sound, and insists on the opinion these would be ncoh better with rear system…naja…absolutely resistant just so the back just stays in it… Now he “commissioned” me to him something A Kove Bass is an Infinity Triax rear *grml* both driven by a US AMP 4 channel, model name unknown, seems to be an older series, it is black and looks somehow different from the ones I find in the net. It will soon expand everything and look exactly at it. Budget is around the 150, – he wants to try to get something cheap on the Essener, so you can also propose n bitsl more expensive systems. Music is The car is a golf 2 doorboards are built, so it’s looking for a 16er. It’s also being insulated, but it’s not going to work on the budget. My first suggestion was not to waste the good US amp on the rear system, but to take it for the Kove and the FS and if it has to be, it’s going to have to get ncoh a cheap end stage for the rear. Instead of buying an expensive AMP for the FS now. Provided the performance fits, we’ll see that then. I d denke that’s the most sensible solution, isn’t it?

Hi, so my new Fs is in the planning: 3 ways, should become a hertz. The TT’s from the HSK 163 come in(HV 165) and the midrange driver HD 500. Now I would like to install the tweeters from the space system, they sound really horny. The question is whether this is worth it (160 €) if I drive the Fs passively? Or then rather the ‘small’ Ht’s from the HSK 163? Which HU can fully active 3 ways? Have at the moment the blue point Bremen MP 74……… Which level for fully active? Have roofed to the 6 channel Eton t, which makes ‘only’ 6 times 80 W…. Is that enough? Level can cost up to 500 €, gladly also in exchange for bridge K2.03. Should partly go really loud, must mim Sub be able to keep up with some things, is nen RE Audio 12 XXX at ner Van Gogh 1600.2. I should be able to adjust the separation frequencies at the Eton so that the blue point is enough to drive fully active?!? How would you do that? If I would drive passively a bridge K2.03 at the FS. Can’t decide.

ne still takes a weng but today I got mail again And see what you get for a apple and egg everything… Calls itself Helix HXS 1206 MK2 !!! hmmm am grad gekommen und wird den mal testen…am we kanner dann mal an eisis steg rann… must take a lot more. au mechanisch…da hat der alten sein manko… gaht gut vom Teil wäre wasn hansi gwese zum bracken… godsei dank ich him vorm Tod gehaltet naja hier mal ein paar pics…http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/ 2568/img3466iv2.jpg http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/3166/img3468vv7.jpg Alt v Neu http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/1648/img3471bk2.jpghttp://img368.imageshack.us/img368/5007/img3475qe5.jpg jo he looks very promising ..will test it once…he also seems to be BR capable…that’s what this we will try out once…. mfg

Don’t worry, I don’t want to install speakers in rear shelf An Aliante 12″ comes into the trunk on an Eton PA5402, now I ask myself how far does the original rear shelf affect the subwoofer sound? Does it make sense to install a self-made acoustic material-covered shelf instead of the original shelf, or to cut in the original holes? Don’t want to leave out the shelf altogether, it should not necessarily see everyone at the same time that the whole trunk with expensive C ar-hifi is paved.

Hi I thought maybe next week to start a new conversion.. because I have just sold my 1000 Watt bandpass adapted to the skisack to a colleague and will also redesign the suitcase room due to a complete conversion. maybe the following idea would also be the solution for all limo riders without skisack. because everyone has the problem that the bass does not come into the inside room. how about you simply use the sheet strips running under the hat rack to strengthen the s cutting sheet behind the back bench flexed out and replaced by approx. 5-10 solid 10 metal aspiration, which then welds in instead of the wide but thin metal strips. solid would be as before, or even more if one would strive for the still diagonally. but one has created such a huge air channel to the suitcase room and if one now 1-2 suitably adjusted Bassreflex Woofer approx. 1-2 cm under this new hat rack, it presses with certainty from the rear quite neatly. as new optical. blind would probably be a 10mm frame made of welded metal ideal that could then be customized with various coverings. would look like before and the problem would finally be solved.. please post pro & contra

Moin, I finished my “car-hifi-installation” today. The rear speakers are jammed, serial front system replaced with a Sinuslive SL-F165 + basic insulation of the doors + matching Sinuslive 110 Neo tweeter, in the trunk an Axton Cab 308 Subwoofer, everything is driven by a Carpower Monacor HPB-604. Everything is quite good, but I still have the same problem as before the new front system, when I only had the sub to the series LS… the Sub is just booming extremely with some songs, with many it sounds very good and also pushes very nice, but with some it just sounds terrible and it only comes out roaring, regardless of the volume and even if the basses are set to -6. I tried everything at the power stage now what goes on, from 40-100hz through all low pass filters, tried the gain controller from Min to Max to 100 different positions, but it does not work, with some lids it just roars. I know now with frequencies ni But it’s just songs with quite dominant and dull basses, they just don’t come out of the sub in a reasonable way (so it’s probably very deep, because they’ve been pushed out of the sub even at the LP filter on 40hz), it’s also not fun to listen to that. What can this be about now, how can I get rid of it? Is it on the case? Is a bass reflex with 2 “outputs, tubes…” – wrongly calculated it’s certainly not because it was a ready-made sub that is sold in this case. Any tips? Otherwise I’ll throw out the sub soon! Would be a pity, because otherwise it sounds really horny!

Hi guys, I read here last time that you can set the filters with a multimeter to the -3dB point, but find that no longer. Procedure was the following: – give sinus tone to the level with desired separation frequency – completely turn the filters back, measure the voltage at the LS terminals and remember – turn the filters in the direction of separation frequency until the measured voltage exactly halved Kind of lights up…you say double power brings +3dB, vice versa should Is that so correct? Is that because slowly everything for active operation together…Soft, cable, level, Domis By the way, has become a protovision reality who cares. Greeting to all Rafael