Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Hi Leutz! The title already says a lot… it’s like this: car is (or becomes) BMW E39 540i (i.e. Limo). Ski bag available, hat rack fixed, seats not foldable. Now the question arises me if a clever BP walk. (with e.g. DD 3515b in it) or a professionally installed free air variant (e.g. with Hertz Mille 3800) makes more sense?! Listen ONLY HipHop/RnB but before everyone says “then BP is ok or even best” I want to note that I also pay attention to sound and not ONLY T Iefgang/level. So it’s supposed to go deep, level AND sound precise with fast bass sequences. BP would come from the pro (fortissimo) and Free Air also (neck in hat rack –> this naturally bomb-proof = NO neck breaker and K.raum top sealed –> cavities with Liquafon and bitumen mats sealed) What do you think?

Hello Leutchen, Hmm since yesterday my EQ totally spins around. Sometimes the left side goes ne more, sometimes the right side goes ne more. and that’s of course annoying. I guess through the bass, or by the vibration has given up the mind. EQ was installed in the kofferaum. (Yes I know! ) Which EQ or Prozzi would be a good choice now. Pricey? No idea. plenty of times to start from the cheapest (pros and disadvantages) etc. I don’t need LZK, or I already have. So people help me. PS: That makes my F measurement natural for Bobbes, but then I do it again

Hello Next week my Rainbow SLX 265 deluxe will come. You should record the loudspeakers. But since I hardly drive during the week and am currently not on the road at the weekend, I would like to record the loudspeakers at the home system. The amplifier is a Pioneer SX 304RDS with 290 W and 8 Ohm. Can I connect the Rainbow there and if so how do I play it properly? Can I hang the loudspeakers normally on the crossover and then on the amplifier? Do the sounds have to be How and how long do I have to play it? So howvie operating hours. How loud? Certain music? Greetings Mathias

Hi @ all! Now that I have read this and that thread here at MT and also in other forums about “free-running diodes”, I am, to say the least, a bit confused about the operation or the necessity of free-running diodes in relay circuits. So first of all, see if I have understood what it is about: If the switching voltage falls off (e.g. from the remote output of the radio), the magnetic field collapses in the coil of the controlled relay, causing a voltage that is induced around a vi Elsewhere higher than the actual “switch voltage”. What all sources agree that this voltage peak can or should be short-circuited by suitable diode switching. But what I don’t understand now (which I have also read different statements about) is the question in which circuit the diode has to be in? Here in the forum (in the two links given above) is that the radio is protected with the free-run diode. That would be – according to my lay idea – means that the induced voltage is induced into the coil itself, because the radio is attached to it. But I’m kind of hard to imagine that the coil generates a “self-induction”. Or is that so? In another place it says that the diode protects the on-board grid, so that the diode belongs in the switched “load” circuit. That’s obvious to me in so far as I can imagine how the coil induces into the “load” conductor, but here I wonder, whether such a voltage peak does not “disappear” due to the very small amount of charge in the on-board network? If one of the people who have had the idea has had a pity to explain it to me again, I would be very grateful! Ciao & Greetings Marc

Hello guys, since 3 weeks ago my beautiful Sony CD tuner said goodbye and the warranty repair takes half an eternity (at least nobody could tell me today what’s going on with my radio) I am looking for a replacement device. It should definitely be a high-quality device and this time I value runtime correction. It would be nice if the radio also had an integrated active switch. In my search I stepped on the following devices: 1. Bl aupunkt Bremen MP76 2. Pioneer DEH-P88RS I would like the pio optically better, but the blue dot in my previous system configuration would have some advantages (I am in possession of a blue dot Lucca 5.2 navigation). These would be on the one hand that there is a connection cable with which you can connect the Lucca and the Bremen, on the other hand, the Bremen has a direct phone input over which I could easily drag my FSE. However, I am also open to sensible alternatives, the two devices would only be my favorites from the device pool that has been formed so far when researching… MfG.

Hello! I found on eBay the Pioneer DEH-P80RS, which probably has L/R separate EQ. At the P88RS I could not find this information yet. Is it now the same model but for different countries or how is that to be understood. Does one know or should I ask Pioneer directly? DEH-P80RS:http://www.pioneer.com.sg/…/default.asp?… DEH-P88RS:http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/25/121/61/DEH-P88RS/index.html Thanks for your help!

Hello together! I’m totally confused, I have to confess. I talked to a friend earlier, who also runs a small car-hiFi business. So, since I’ve been here for a few years (formerly Nick), I think, I’ve accumulated a lot of know-how in my car by reading a lot of other people’s experiences and lots of rehearsal hearings. But how do you deal with it when you meet someone who thinks you have the plan and pretty much everything you need to know? r tells me about his awesome Emphaser Amp. I didn’t say anything about it…. Then he asks me about my components, I tell him, the Twister and before the QT15 on the PA2802 and that I usually hear HipHop… He like this: Then show me your band pass. I tell him I didn’t have any, but I always had the QT BR. Then I just didn’t get any understanding. No BR would still press properly at 20HZ. I’ll tell him if you’re tuning the band pass so deep ass, he’s got such a rough peak that there’s garnix in the upper bass and I can’t use the part in a tonal view. He means na KLAR, nen JL in the band pass goes still like sow at 20HZ and is still right in the upper bass, besides that JLs are famous as fast and fart rock the play. Okay…. Also I just left it like that and put myself as the Noob, no bug on the ground then he asks why 15 at all”. I tell him because I like to have a little bit more bass and the QT is so fast, that it can be late for me if it’s 15″ or 12″. Especially with HipHop… Again only unbelieving looks harvested… Well, I also accepted it. Then someone else comes and tells me partly already aggressively and 100% convinced that I would be completely stupid because I had a sub in the car. He would have a buddy who would have just 4 20s basses on the rear shelf and they would still press like pig at 18HZ (NO I HAVE NOT HEARED!!!). When I then meant how this should be done physically, he was partty… What do you do in such situations?? Would I really be interested in… THANK YOU!

Servus, I installed my 10W6v2 in my MX5 inverse in “direction rear-view mirror”. So far – so good… Unfortunately, it is very audible beyond the pole core bore! Have any of you already had the same effect? What could you do about it (except exchange it for a W7;-)? Or could it possibly be because it is not yet installed (for the first 12-14 hours)? I hope you have some tips in stock… I’m really desperate! Therefore to have to exchange him for another subwoofer!!!!!! MFG Stefan

Good Tach! Got my stuff in it now (see below), it’s been going on for about 4 weeks, and it seems to me that the whole story gradually starts to drag on. What was definitely and not at all at first!! In order to get to the origin of the troubleshooting, some facts: The battery can’t really be, although I don’t have a cap and also the volts yet, but light etc., it doesn’t flicker, even with SUB-breeds not… That the Rainbows are not sooo dolle after all , I notice by now, because the HT gives it all back, but also a tearing (with nickelback it is quite violent, or RW ́s “Rock DJ”, there comes the bass hit through to the HT, with other things you can hear it again less to hardly). From the SUB comes clean, it is the FS (my God, hopefully not in the course of teaching….) What can be the cause ? The installation is so leveled that after a week the amp was set halfway, and until then God does not know Boom-Car has played. It is surprising that even at low volume (or just then….) it can be heard. I would have suspected the admittedly not optimal mass point (had no Thorx ratchet for the belt point). Or the next makes the greaves because maybe only 12.5 volts arrive there. Or only fogging sin: the door plate is not 100y free behind the FS, it protrudes a little bit into the opening, but without contact to the speaker basket ! Or, does that have anything to do with the 2 volt output of the radio to do ?? Therefore the basic request for HELP from a distance Oh yes, car is a Modeo V6, the LiMa has 120 Ah, and the battery is reinforced ex factory, has 96 Ah, cable 16 qm, may well be enough for a Q24….

So in advance, I already make some speculations with the Zimme and the farmer. But my test possibilities are limited. so then I had the problem that the DD had simply not brought the level any more which he should have done at this volume. It was just quieter than before to the same raised level. So then I proceeded as follows. First Chinch hung to another exit of the HU. = still quiet Then another chinch cable geno mm tested on sub-out, and rear out from HU = the same DD removed from the housing, both coils tested = both Ok. So at some point it went again. But now I got it again. Again quiet level. So I now took a multimeter. 50 HZ tone, and turned on. With the connection clamp of + and – 31 volts out. With the LS terminals strangely only 25 volts. AMP: is the AT1500 (considerable high efficiency) sub is at 0.5 ohms. That would give at 31 volts almost pi times thumbs 1.9 KW and at 25 volts but only 1.2 KW. How can that be? Now the funny thing about the thing. WHEN I could turn louder at the HU “could” (was already max turned up) then I would have the same level as before. So as it should have been normal. Now we 3 don’t really know what it could be anymore. Hu event? Preamp 4 volts defective and only runs on 2 or so? The wiring is OK. Speculate with us, and try to help me.