Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

jo, so have n exact psw 308 in 44 liters br case. if I turn a little louder, then some songs (only for 3 or 4 pieces) come on 1 or 2 make such a quick bang… (so for 2 seconds, so about 6-8 bangs or so) so from the sub, it is relatively loud, and for nen sub on any case high ^^ so you ort immediately what comes from. doesn’t sound healthy. and at the beginning I thought it was a spit or just a cable that burns through, so a bang like when a cable goes through burns (or as with the glow bulb when it burns at the turn on, only louder. ) however the sub still goes as before. is the sub at the place already overloaded? because it actually does not sound really warped at the place at… by the way, at 100 hz with (believe) 18 or 24 db/oktave separated, so as steep as it just went.

Hello, I wanted to ask the Specie’s here how to find the following subwoofer because I could get this just cheap and bring it to mention for installation in my car: Pioneer TS-W 305F Art.No.: 1856040050 Subwoofer with 800 watts maximum load capacity, 300 watts nominal load capacity, 30cm IMPP cone with networked aramid fiber reinforcement, 4-ohm swirling coil, frequency response 20 -2,000 Hz. Image – see appendix – I plan to build the whole as a ski bag solution – so if you use the back the You can see the sub behind the armrests! Besides, I’d like to know what you could recommend to me for a power amp?

Hello, so, I’m trying again with my sound…have ordered me now ne dragster da 704, the carpower may come out completely… So now I’ve also thought about damming the doors, today at noon I cut off the disguise and staun, in my golf 3 build year end 1995 is already such a kind of insulation inside, can it… the whole sheet is lined with black bitumen-like material, what is it? Now wants to expand everything and reinstall from the front… the following should now again: -pioneer 3600 mp -helix blue 62 mkII system -dragster da 704 (- possibly 2 Ls stay in storage back) Now I also want to get new power cable, have currently 20s in it, but is from the previous owner, therefore I do not know because of quality….was today at ACR, the seller said 25s from rockford fosgate is good, wanted 39€ (is not that a little much?) Then I asked at ACR immediately for insulation for doors, which meant that completely both doors cost 50€ the material, a In other words, for 9,90€ you also get a small set, which comes then only behind the Ls, which means that on the audio course it is conveyed that behind the Ls is enough, but themselves they would completely dam at ACR, because with installations for hundreds/thousands of euros, should not arrive at the few euros, which meant that I would have to know it myself. At an auction house I sent a salesman a mail, who meant it enough 0.5 to 0.75 m2 bitumen mats per door, has ten se t there with 40 pcs. in 25x10cm and 2,6mm thick, then he recommended to me still insulation fleeces, everything together would cost 40€ + shipping. What should I do? KAYDON

I have now also come to the taste of kick basses and would now like to build some in my doorborads, or even new ones. so far installed is an axton 2-channel front system, which gets 2*50 Watt RMS from the Eybrid power amplifier, and a Pioneer subswoofer, which gets 300 Watt RMS, also from the Eybrid. everything best so far (for this class at least), only the “hearable” bass area is missing a bit… should not be too expensive the whole. Just give me a few tip If that’s important: Opel Corsa B, doors not yet insulated, but still comes (can the few kickbas range from the Axton front system perhaps come from the uninsulated doors? still ne info: the deep/midrangers are installed on such plastic adapters…). genericly I have either thought about a 2-channel (MXB 280??) and then I have already seen a kickbass with 2*4 ohms oscillating coil (so then every kickbass in row (or yet parallel? ?) with 2 ohms each). or still a 4 channel and on 2 channels bridges and then 4 ohm kick basses? many thanks to squiddy

Hello people, since my boxes from the previous owner were already in the ar*** and have expanded today,I wanted to buy new ones soon!They should of course sound good and not be alzu expensive!Would you like to install front and rear 2!Would you have any tips which manufacturers are good and at the same time cheap??? thank you in advance PS:Drive a mazda 323f BA size of the boxes:Hints 16er and front 5*7 I have read here so

Hello, I would need a new sub. I am mainly interested in SPL, but should also make good pressure (sound is not sooo important, although a change port comes in, but is mainly adapted to SPL). Requirements: – well suited for BP 4th order! – strongly loadable (should also take part in the burp two linked Ext 3000) – housing size max. 180l net – either 1×15″ or 2×12″ – connection impendance may lie at most at 1Ohm (better would be 0.5Ohm) Actually I would like to n but they are hardly suitable for 4th order (meet only BR and 6th order). That’s why it has to be a “normal” woofer. At the moment I think for example: 1x 13W7 D1.5 2x SPL Pro 12 D2 1x RE XXX 15 D2 (if I find one) Is there anything else? As I said, only the load capacity limits quite a bit… What do you think? MfG, Diddy

hi leuts so here first of all what I have what remains for the first time jvc KD G 722R 10 meter 35mm2 plus cable 3 meter mass cable also 35mm2 100A security speaker hifonics zeus zs42cx 10cm for rear doors new 90A battery no acid what I still have is a hifonics zeus sub double vibrating coil with 350watt and an old blue point 4×100 watt 1F condenser that flies out now still vehicle data audio 80 avant OK now my questions -1:I want to have a good FS 2 ways I heard and read the carpower monacor has a set that should be quite good (neoset 165) -2:subwoofer no idea what to take with the selection of hiponics was not bad for the beginning but I want to have more pressure is (signat) a good brand -3:end stages ??? no idea on all cases suitable for the sub and one for the fs and hs -4:condensator (hifonics) or yet prefer a different brand thanks in advance already

Moin! I’m building a cofer room expansion with final stage and subwoofer in my Polo 6N. Now, as is well known, the polo is not the largest car, but rather one of the small and therefore the trunk ebanfalls not particularly voluminous. Therefore, the final stage and Woofer would also take the complete floor and I would not have a place anymore, because neatly something to take with me. Well, when traveling it would be no problem to put suitcases etc. there, but in the everyday operation I have only in the My plan is to install an MDF about 13cm above the normal trunk floor and then put the speaker in there and nail the amplifier on it. Now I just remembered that I can screw the amplifier under the MDF, so practically into the “housing” of the subwoofer. Now I have doubts whether the heat is in order, d a the amplifier could pass through up to 720Watt and then the heat has to go somewhere. Well, 60A continuous load is unlikely in normal operation, but what does this look like with lower currents? Do I have to fear that I will run out of the amplifier all the time in the summer? Thank you for your answers, Monkeyhead

Hi guys I’m just standing on the hose.. I’m looking for a small FS a 13ner tmt. This should play afterwards in a damped undefined volume.. Subwoofer support will not exist.. a little bit louder the little should then also be able to.. and maybe he shouldn’t run out of breath at the bottom.. Will go out on something used and performance are apparently so available to him between 30-60 w rms the whole should be in my old audio into the amaboard… the nachb esitzer wants to have sounded a little bit more than the nokia can trot. 😉 arg loud the whole doesn’t have to go, of course everything as cheap as possible.. Hu will probably become something cheaper of pioneer deh 30 / 40 mp so filters are available.. ifs goes straight a 2 way or a good coax would also be ok and possibly even better to install and adjust… if the lzk is missing… I hang the whole time on so nem AA 130 which should go down still loud.. the tmts will then be then designed for adapters installed… somehow that’s how I imagined it.. I would like to have everything up, just so there are fewer problems with the stage, the frequency response etc. Price I say once so 100 euro used mfg

Hi! Recently we had a thread about Pioneer radios from the USA. They probably can’t be changed from the American radio format (there the frequency jumps are at 0.2 Mhz and odd decimal places like: 92,1 – 92,3 – 92,5 etc). Kenwood in the USA also has that, but you can change it. So if you want to have a reasonable radio and that is as cheap as possible you can look around in the USA now. Here is the instruction from Kenwood: Quote: Thank you f or writing to us at Kenwood USA Corporation. Yes, it is possible to use any of the 1 din CD players in Europe. Here are the instructions: 1. Press and hold presets 1 and 5. 2. Press and release the RESET button, ̄ALL OFFÓ is now displayed. 3. Release presets 1 and 5. 4. Press the SOURCE button. Tuner will appear. 5. Press the AUTO button twice. This will turn off Auto Tuning. 6. Press the Tune/Track Up or Down once. A ᐅ5Ó will begin to flash to the right of the decimal point. or (depending on the model number) 1. Turn off the unit completely. 2. Simultaneously hold down presets 1 and 5. 3. While holding presets 1 and 5. Press the SOURCE button until the unit turns on. 4. Let go of Preset 1 and 5. This will put the unit in the OFFÓ mode. 5. Press the SOURCE button again to select TUNE. 6. Press the Tune/Track Up or Down once. A small ᐅ5Ó will begin to flash to the right of the decimal point. If you have any further questions or need help with anything, plea se feel free to contact us again. Greetings VentoRenner