Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Hello all together =) I would like to equip my Golf 3 Cabriolet with a nice music system. Unfortunately I have no idea of the matter ^^ It’s not about reaching deep basses and roaring music but rather to get music in a certain volume with a good quality (and from me also like a bit of bass). The original speakers are too much of a noise to me. Now I have often heard the “blue spot” to be a nice brand to improve the music system after a little research I found:- Subwoofer : Blaupunkt Blue Magic XLf 200 A – High/Low Toner : Blaupunkt Blue Magic CX 160 2-Way High-Power Compensating System 158mm – AEG AR 4026 Autoradio (DVD/CD, 17.5 cm (7 inches) LCD display, touchscreen, SD card slot, USB) black Do these components fit together? Do I have to pay attention to anything? Help for this Tema would be great =) P.s A friend installs the system to me (he’s already done that often), but he knows the components. (What’s good, what’s bad) not good out. MfG MD

Hello community! I took a break for a few years and I think that I should change from cassette after all. I have a Opel Commodore Coupé for 17 years, which I had at that time equipped with a stereo system. Since I wanted to leave the Becker Europa (still functioning via center speakers) in the dashboard for optical reasons, I have accommodated radio, active switches and changers in the glove compartment. Unfortunately, I have found that the radio now has the Since the Becker Mexico Retro is really too expensive for me (you’re getting more reasonable in old age), I Googled a bit and landed relatively quickly at Retrosound. Visually, it would be an adequate replacement for the original. But how does it sound? What does “USB on the backside”? I would be grateful about reports. To the plant: Denon Stereo Cassette Reveiver DCR-930R m. 5x DIN shaft changer Nakamichi EC-200 Active Soft 2x G&S Design C2000 End stages at 2x Focal 1 5″ Polyglass in Bandpass Fostex CA4 Power Amplifier at G&S Design Predator 16cm Midranger + Fostex FT-17H tweeter (front, full active) Fostex CA4 Power Amplifier at Fostex FE126En Fullrange 13cm Medium. + Fostex FT-17H High. (back, full active) Fostex CA2 Power Amplifier at G&S Nightstalker 20cm Coax Midbasses (back, full active) 1müF Elko Greeting Harry

Hello dear Talk company I have a problem with my system And I have a double subwoofer with 1600watt The power amplifier that was there with 2400 watts brings nothing at all. I have been attracted by the good comments. Unfortunately an error.http://www.amazon.de/…/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_1?… I still have a 1000 watt four channel amplifier from Toxic. With this I get some sound out but when the music volume is 0 one hears clearly interferences from the subwoofe r come, something like a heartbeat pulse in the form of bass. When you flip the x over, Full, lpf, Bass 0-18 DB switch comes a whole bass inferno (sounds really horrible) no matter whether music volume is on or off. From my buddy the cheap 500 watt 2 channel power amplifier from Magnat tried out and no noise, interference or anything else. But at volume 15 the bassboxx goes off, I think because of lack of power of the amplifier. Now my question is what I best for a ve 1. A 1600 Watt 1 channel amplifier? 2. Or does it not matter if there are 4 channels? Because you can also get bridges 3. Is this right if I would make the plus cables on ch 1 and the minus cables on ch 4 from both boxes? I just want to run the subwoofer over the power amplifier. I hope you can help me

Good evening, Would like to add new boxes to my Polo 6N, for a little more performance, bass and of course for a better sound experience. Wanted to ask me if JVC are really good boxes, as some say or if there are better ones in the same price ratio. Has someone had positive/negative experiences with JVC, if yes – what does he think of the following boxes: JVC CS-J420

Hi, owns a car radio of the brand alpine d106r, connected with navi module alpine 009series and dvbt module t150dv. Unfortunately I can not switch to navi or dvbt, because I did not get a remote control. There is a lot of remote control but which I need so that I can switch to dvbt? Can I use the 4191 multi-function remote control ? Have read that I have to switch to AV the 4191 has no AV key Can it not switch on the display. urgent help. Thanks in advance

Hello, I hope someone can help me, because I have removed the slightly weak original sub from the B&O system and replaced it with a 25cm Gladen and an AMPIRE MB1000.1-2G power amplifier. The original cables of the B&O Sub provide the signal for the power amplifier, but the remote control of the amp does not work. (remote power amplifier) a direct + brings the power amplifier to run from the HP: Ampire EQUIPMENT: – Cinch and high level inputs with automatic power on (Auto Turn On) – including bass level remote control – flashable with a second MB1000.1-2G in master/slave operation – Status LED – Protective circuit LED still work with Hi/Lo adapter? if yes, which one?

Well, as it is, I still haven’t managed to build decent doorboards. The ones I’ve got in there sound quite ok, but they don’t look like shit. I’m not the pro in the trade, so there’s probably a lot of work in there and nothing comes out when I build new ones… That’s why I wanted to buy doorboards… So much for the audition… At Ebay there are now only open doorboards, so the TMTs are playing on the door… I haven’t kept much of that so far, because then you’re going to be The doors are forced to be closed. Besides, you don’t have a defined and really closed housing. But if they are covered everywhere, they must be apparently more popular than closed doorboards. Therefore, my questions to you: Why are the open boards so popular? Would you rather advise me to be open or closed? (My present ones are closed, probably have 2.5l per page and sound like I said quite ok…) I’m curious about your statements… Greetings, E.T.chen

Hello people This is my first post here so I now have the following problem: as already in the title it is that I get almost like no drug from my suitcase or very little (have made my K-extension myself and am despairing because it has cost me a lot of time and now my nerves are slowly suffering from it.. here are the dates car. bmw e46 323ci coupe subbox with: 2x hifonics zeus zs-12 350 w rms endstuff: Crunch v-drive v2600 powercap:hifonics 1.0 farad headunit: sony mp3 c dx-f7500 power cables are 10mm I built the box from mdf 19mm and put it on the back seats and an opening in the ski bag made with 2x 12cm diameter tubes but the box simply does not give a good bass when I make to dreoquarters of the noise dan it starts to slurp from the subs and as by the way the spotlights also flicker easily with me…… I hope very much that someone could help me because I really have no idea what I should do. gruss deju323ci

hello together, I’m currently looking for a buddy who can cost up to a maximum of 200 euros. the good piece should be installed in a vw bora, ie dense suitcase room. if there is a ski bag I don’t know yet, but it will always run out of a bp. therefore your suggestions should please orient themselves in this direction. the whole story should be operated on an emphasizer ea 2190 which should crack out at 4 ohm 600 rms. (does the actually also 2 ohm bridge. with?) the woofer can be new or used. house is self-reliable self-built. well then I hope you numerous ideas.

night, I was yesterday biting through the shops and fell out backwards at the cable prices. 8€ for a meter 35mm2 I find quite violent.Hads then let it be and looked at ebay. then a buddy told me that one could theoretically also take stink normal power cable out of the construction market. certainly in similar strength (will have 35ers) and well isolated. might be a lot cheaper. in my eyes is current and if the cable I’m surprised that I haven’t heard anything about any of you doing this… what do you think about it?