Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

So… I just banished the user Toms_Car_Hifi (for the 4th time now…). Normally that wouldn’t be worth a thread in the forum, but I think in this case I should say a few words about it. Some will probably have wondered why he was allowed to be active here for so long – that has two reasons: 1. I had warned him quite drastically at the beginning, when he had re-registered, and he then behaved quite well for a while. 2. I was the last The decision to ban him had been in the room for a long time – I will also ask internally whether it should remain this time with a pure banishment … The fact is that he practically exclusively spoke in the sub-forum “Products” with product recommendations, which are randomly all to have in his shop – and this often coincides with I’ve looked at this (for too long) and also distributed the one or other wink with the fence stake – in the hope that it would improve… Was probably nothing… so I pulled the logical consequence. Better late than never – I’m sorry if he annoyed you… mfg, Marsupilami72

Hello guys, I have my system now in the car. I just wonder, do you need a capacitor or not? If so, is there little K.? I know the ones from earlier these round “bombs”. 😉 Audio: Front: MB Quart RUA 213, Rear: Alpine SXE 1725s, Subwoofer: Rockford Fosgate 10″ P3SD410 Shallow Amplifier: Rockford Fosgate Punch P400-4 <--400Watt Thanks for your answers.

Hello together! Need a small but important tip. I’m just about to cover my door panel. Leather understands itself. I ripped off the old fabric and now want to stick on artificial leather there. Which glue is definitely the best for this purpose? Don’t want to experience any evil overhangs. What can you recommend to me? Would be very friendly if you can help me further.

hello, I have here a cheap final stage (GIGABOYZ AMP-400). which went 1 week also quite well. when listening to music she suddenly went to PROTECT. took her off once and connected to 12V at home (without boxes). the performance mammal is over 10A and I hear a loud buzzing in the area of the spit. but it is nothing messed up. can you save this protect or is the final stage down? can I still do something myself? have a multimeter here. if someone gives me a tip Is the construction of end stages always the same or different? somehow the spule also seems a bit small (about as big as when you make a circle out of your finger and thumb). on the end stage stands 4-channel 800W. have added a picture… have measured front 2 speakers with 4 OHM, and my SUB mark blaubunkt has 3.3 OHM. have thus channel 1/2 for front and 3/4 for the sub. mfg docmaxhttp://home.arcor.de/docmax1978/pics/auto/D SCF0031.JPG

hi No, I don’t drive a KA but a good girlfriend. who now meant to have 1000-150€ for “ne thick system” left. she hears hiphop. she currently uses a usb stick on the original cassette radio. she wants an invoice on the parts. so what about installation problems? Radio installation??? power cable?? speaker cable?? installation depth of the front system?? thought of: eton pro170 -170€ eton ec500.4 -280€ pioneer 6800 -250€ (LZK, green lighting) jvc kd-sh 1000 -290€ (USB) insulation material -100€ s ubwoofer…..soft, deep, level-resistant and 50liter grosso. thought of blackbass 10″but the has 4+4ohm it is available from mm over acr also 4 free dealers…. the bandwidth is very large. Thanks for your help. bye

Hello guys! Have a question: My battery will soon make ́n exit Which batteries do you recommend? Vehicle would be a 99 Chevy Tahoe V8 battery in the future should easily manage with the car, a heater (not yet available) and about 3 power stages (Hifonics Brutus BX1000D, Hifonics Son of Thor and one that is still in the store!!). My preference goes towards the gel battery, but which ones?? Have only heard of Optima so far, but there are also ten different re d, blue, yellow,…. Are there alternatives, cheaper, better, different??? Thank you for every tip Greetings from Graz (A) Stefan

Hi guys, since I’ve been looking for a Double DIN DVD Navi system for a long time, but so far I don’t have much to do with it here in Europe. I thought I’d ask you what’s on the market and what’s best for its price. What I’m looking for is a Double DIN device with 6.5″ or 7″ screen, of course would be a touchscreen. NOTHING to extend or expand hard drive is not absolutely necessary, but would be practical. d also the possibility to connect a return camera should be available. Also, it would be nice if all of Europe were to get as a NaviCard. What is most likely to meet my ideas so far are the Pioneer AVIC-HD1BT And from Eclipse the AVN parts. What do you think of them, or what else can you recommend or say opinions to me? Thank you FalloutBoy

Hello, I’m sure the question has already been asked here, but I haven’t found what exactly I need. To my audio system: I’ve installed the RCD310 with 4 speakers at the front and 4 at the back. I’d like to upgrade the bass a little bit now, as this is known to be rather weak. I’ve read that I need a power amp plus sub. I’d like to build the sub under the driver’s seat and the power amp under the passenger’s seat. i 8 loudspeakers + sub need exactly for a power amplifier. So how many channels? Don’t get through there somehow. I would like to buy the stuff at Ebay so it doesn’t get quite as expensive. So I would need the power amplifier (how many channels anyway?) and the sub (have picked out one of Pioneer, who has quite good ratings), then I would need a high-low adapter to connect the power amplifier to the radio and still cables to bring the sub to the power amplifier correctly? I don’t need a high-end device, I just want to relieve the speakers from the bass. A good middle thing I would need. What can you recommend? It would be very nice if someone could help me on the fast ones. LG Joe

A DSP usually has at least the functions EQ, Crossover/Frequenzzweiche, delay/runtime correction. Now you play in the car often only stereo sources, stereo means 2 sides, left and right. In the car HT/MT/TT are further away to the right than left, so that Stereo works, you would have to install the right speakers to the exact same distance as the left. So use the runtime correction to delay the sound of the left side until the sound of the right side n side reaches the right ear. Both LSs are now virtually at the same distance. With a DSP I can specify the milliseconds myself or measure it with the inch stick, the DSP software then adjusts the milliseconds itself, depending on the distance. With the EQ you can raise or lower certain frequencies. The crossover limits the frequency response of a speaker. But what is the purpose of the measuring microphone? What can be set with it? I can use a measuring microphone e I think I need a constant test tone. Now I have a measurement of a constant tone and see which frequencies arrive at the measuring microphone at what strength. 50hz – 8db, 250hz – 6db and so on. But what do you do with this information? What do you do with it? Couldn’t a measuring microphone also measure the runtime? The DSP knows for itself best when it sends out a signal e.g. on channel 4. The Mikorofon can then measure this sound and d he DSP could determine the difference. Same runtime of each channel would be the same distance? Wouldn’t that be more effective than measuring it with the customs stick? Listening it in electronically, but maybe not every DSP offers this function. With the information that 250hz is 6db sound and compared to 50hz is only 8db sound, I can’t do anything about it. What do you set up with this information and why?

Hi guys! I want to get a new bass section for me since the end of last year. Enough time to think about what should come in. Can I decide absolutely net, or have the possibility to listen to some rehearsal somewhere and have no experience with my favorites. Weighting falls to about 60% level, 40% sound. Listen normally during the week and listen to some DB drags in the summer Just for Fun. I would like the following: 1. 2x Alpine SWR-1242 @ 1x ETON PA2802 2. 2x Soundstream T4-12 @ 1x ETON PA2802 3. 2x ETON Crag 12-1000 @ 2x ETON PA2802 4. 2x ETON 12-620 HEX @ 1x ETON PA2802 The front system is an RS160 which is to come later also active on ne 1054. Therefore, package 3 o. 4 would already agree to me. Then I would have en pure ETON Wägelchen The housing should definitely become a BR. Does it work that I can replace the tube for DB-Drag with a shorter or longer depending on the tuning to become a tick louder or go Is that just about volume? Wouldn’t it be cool if someone here could give some tips what your favorites would be of them. Greetings and Thx in advance!