Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Hello guys, since 3 weeks ago my beautiful Sony CD tuner said goodbye and the warranty repair takes half an eternity (at least nobody could tell me today what’s going on with my radio) I am looking for a replacement device. It should definitely be a high-quality device and this time I value runtime correction. It would be nice if the radio also had an integrated active switch. In my search I stepped on the following devices: 1. Bl aupunkt Bremen MP76 2. Pioneer DEH-P88RS I would like the pio optically better, but the blue dot in my previous system configuration would have some advantages (I am in possession of a blue dot Lucca 5.2 navigation). These would be on the one hand that there is a connection cable with which you can connect the Lucca and the Bremen, on the other hand, the Bremen has a direct phone input over which I could easily drag my FSE. However, I am also open to sensible alternatives, the two devices would only be my favorites from the device pool that has been formed so far when researching… MfG.

Hello! I found on eBay the Pioneer DEH-P80RS, which probably has L/R separate EQ. At the P88RS I could not find this information yet. Is it now the same model but for different countries or how is that to be understood. Does one know or should I ask Pioneer directly? DEH-P80RS:http://www.pioneer.com.sg/…/default.asp?… DEH-P88RS:http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/25/121/61/DEH-P88RS/index.html Thanks for your help!

Hello together! I’m totally confused, I have to confess. I talked to a friend earlier, who also runs a small car-hiFi business. So, since I’ve been here for a few years (formerly Nick), I think, I’ve accumulated a lot of know-how in my car by reading a lot of other people’s experiences and lots of rehearsal hearings. But how do you deal with it when you meet someone who thinks you have the plan and pretty much everything you need to know? r tells me about his awesome Emphaser Amp. I didn’t say anything about it…. Then he asks me about my components, I tell him, the Twister and before the QT15 on the PA2802 and that I usually hear HipHop… He like this: Then show me your band pass. I tell him I didn’t have any, but I always had the QT BR. Then I just didn’t get any understanding. No BR would still press properly at 20HZ. I’ll tell him if you’re tuning the band pass so deep ass, he’s got such a rough peak that there’s garnix in the upper bass and I can’t use the part in a tonal view. He means na KLAR, nen JL in the band pass goes still like sow at 20HZ and is still right in the upper bass, besides that JLs are famous as fast and fart rock the play. Okay…. Also I just left it like that and put myself as the Noob, no bug on the ground then he asks why 15 at all”. I tell him because I like to have a little bit more bass and the QT is so fast, that it can be late for me if it’s 15″ or 12″. Especially with HipHop… Again only unbelieving looks harvested… Well, I also accepted it. Then someone else comes and tells me partly already aggressively and 100% convinced that I would be completely stupid because I had a sub in the car. He would have a buddy who would have just 4 20s basses on the rear shelf and they would still press like pig at 18HZ (NO I HAVE NOT HEARED!!!). When I then meant how this should be done physically, he was partty… What do you do in such situations?? Would I really be interested in… THANK YOU!

Servus, I installed my 10W6v2 in my MX5 inverse in “direction rear-view mirror”. So far – so good… Unfortunately, it is very audible beyond the pole core bore! Have any of you already had the same effect? What could you do about it (except exchange it for a W7;-)? Or could it possibly be because it is not yet installed (for the first 12-14 hours)? I hope you have some tips in stock… I’m really desperate! Therefore to have to exchange him for another subwoofer!!!!!! MFG Stefan

Good Tach! Got my stuff in it now (see below), it’s been going on for about 4 weeks, and it seems to me that the whole story gradually starts to drag on. What was definitely and not at all at first!! In order to get to the origin of the troubleshooting, some facts: The battery can’t really be, although I don’t have a cap and also the volts yet, but light etc., it doesn’t flicker, even with SUB-breeds not… That the Rainbows are not sooo dolle after all , I notice by now, because the HT gives it all back, but also a tearing (with nickelback it is quite violent, or RW ́s “Rock DJ”, there comes the bass hit through to the HT, with other things you can hear it again less to hardly). From the SUB comes clean, it is the FS (my God, hopefully not in the course of teaching….) What can be the cause ? The installation is so leveled that after a week the amp was set halfway, and until then God does not know Boom-Car has played. It is surprising that even at low volume (or just then….) it can be heard. I would have suspected the admittedly not optimal mass point (had no Thorx ratchet for the belt point). Or the next makes the greaves because maybe only 12.5 volts arrive there. Or only fogging sin: the door plate is not 100y free behind the FS, it protrudes a little bit into the opening, but without contact to the speaker basket ! Or, does that have anything to do with the 2 volt output of the radio to do ?? Therefore the basic request for HELP from a distance Oh yes, car is a Modeo V6, the LiMa has 120 Ah, and the battery is reinforced ex factory, has 96 Ah, cable 16 qm, may well be enough for a Q24….

So in advance, I already make some speculations with the Zimme and the farmer. But my test possibilities are limited. so then I had the problem that the DD had simply not brought the level any more which he should have done at this volume. It was just quieter than before to the same raised level. So then I proceeded as follows. First Chinch hung to another exit of the HU. = still quiet Then another chinch cable geno mm tested on sub-out, and rear out from HU = the same DD removed from the housing, both coils tested = both Ok. So at some point it went again. But now I got it again. Again quiet level. So I now took a multimeter. 50 HZ tone, and turned on. With the connection clamp of + and – 31 volts out. With the LS terminals strangely only 25 volts. AMP: is the AT1500 (considerable high efficiency) sub is at 0.5 ohms. That would give at 31 volts almost pi times thumbs 1.9 KW and at 25 volts but only 1.2 KW. How can that be? Now the funny thing about the thing. WHEN I could turn louder at the HU “could” (was already max turned up) then I would have the same level as before. So as it should have been normal. Now we 3 don’t really know what it could be anymore. Hu event? Preamp 4 volts defective and only runs on 2 or so? The wiring is OK. Speculate with us, and try to help me.

At the moment a Canton 2.16 system is working with me, but the music plays mostly in the footroom. Therefore the consideration: * Koax for mid and high sound into the dashboard * Kick basses into the doors. I stumbled over the Phonocar 2/584 bundle – but unfortunately »only« tweeters and just the kick basses. However, the opinions on the Phonocars could quite captivate me… Well then: Tuner is a Pioneer P5530MP (4×50 Watt DIN – whatever), final stage unfortunately does not blow away from the place. * Koax by ? and with it * Phonocar 2/737 or 2/735 in the doors Or rather a * Phonocar 2/828 and finished? The tweeters of the Canton QS 2.16 are also quite “bissig”… TIA for suggestions, Martin

hi leutz! I have a subwoffer from audiosystem. but it no longer brings the pressure forward! can you please help me there further ? the sheet at the skisack I have already taken away . must I build a different box where dié bass reflex tubes go forward through the skisack ? or do you know something else ? would also be great if one of you could send me a construction instruction for a subwoofer ! no matter what I am grateful for any help ! salute björn

As reported, this model has been sold at ebay! The information says that it is a 2×2 ohm. On the stickers, however, it says the following: 2456 DD35K-4/4 05-2002 The Diddy here in the forum meant that it is a 2×4 ohm according to the information. Not that I don’t believe him, I just want to hear an independent opinion, because I wrote to the seller about a return. But he claims that it is certainly a 2×2 ohm, he has even seen the invoice… What me in you?

Hello, since I don’t come to the installation of my stuff and somehow I don’t want to have new TMTs. In the car it looked like this: per page 2x Spirit L16 on each SPIRIT A 260-4, tweeters remain the DT-284, everything was actively controlled over the two A-260. So the whole shoot is still here. Music direction is everything and it should be properly leveling. Price? good and cheap Are then also actively controlled over an A-260. Would also an A-260 and a paa ry the L16. Who still has something used *zuolischiel*