Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Hello, I had a power amplifier installed for my subwoofer in my Golf V today. I have an emphaser bass reflex subwoofer with 200 watts RMS at 4 ohms. As power amplifier I have chosen the Axton 350 Wass RMS at 4 ohms. Now it sounds quite manic, the sub supports the serial sound and provides for some bass. But it runs hardly audible, even though the gain is on max. Actually it would have to do quite well, right? Had the thing before at a weaker power amplifier from Concord and there he made a clear pressure and dominated the sound image clearly. But when you go to the sub the really only mau runs with… oh yes the bass remote control is of course fully turned up. Does it bring what if I turn around at the subsonic? That’s actually only the lower limit, what the bass gets, right?

Good evening, I’ve been the owner of an E39 BMW for 3 weeks. The BMW cassette radio was built to provide a very miserable sound. Therefore I bought a Kenwood radio which fits with a suitable BMW adapter cable. The sound was better but I’m still not really satisfied despite some games at the settings. Now I came across the company I-Sotec offers the plug & play capable power amplifiers which should fit with a suitable adapter cable in every car and to do so s I have to say that I don’t have any idea about Car Hifi but I don’t want a bass cave either. It’s only important to me to get the best possible out of the speakers without having to tinker on the car and without having any boxes in the interior or trunk. Such a current I-Sotec power amplifier costs incl. matching adapter about 400€, . The thing offers: Quotation: Reinforcement front + subwoofer 2 x 90 + 220 watts music at 4 ohms power 360 watts music at 4 ohm channels 4 / 3 (Front + Sub) Reinforcement Front + Rear 4x 90 Watt Music at 4 Ohm The values don’t tell me anything, so the question arises if this makes sense at all when I have installed original loudspeakers from BMW? It should be the normal stereo system. Otherwise I often hit amplifiers in the bay with the following values which cost up to 50€: Quote: 4 x 65 Watt at 4 Ohm (4-channel operation) or 2 x 65 Watt + 1 x 100 Watt at 4 Ohm (3-channel operation) In addition the adapter cable which has to be connected somehow. Since I have already installed an ISO on BMW adapter for the Kenwood Radio, the question arises to me, where should this adapter then go? Does the adapter only loop the signal so to speak or does the Isotec adapter cable have a branching off for the radio? On the photo I unfortunately don’t recognize that. Otherwise, 2 jack connections are free on the radio if I’m not mistaken. What do you think? Does the whole thing make sense at all or does my project creep up d the speaker doesn’t make any sense?

Hello together, because now my speakers of the BMW HIFI Professional System in turn wanted to give up the spirit I wanted to inform myself what I can do there. I honestly don’t know how to answer the topic, because I have no idea of the stuff. Questions I have, there are on the accessory market compquet offers that fit perfectly, a) of the accuracy of the fit b) Number of boxes? Do you have what? Which companies are recommended? In which price category would the Are they rather good or rather bad? I don’t want to spend much, I say right away! Maybe you have some tips. Ph

Hello dear community, I have the following problem: I have been retrofitting a new radio and speakers in my Mercedes Benz W202 C180 Bj 95 for six months now. Since the day before yesterday the speakers no longer go, at first the sound was only short and then came back again, but now the sound is completely gone. When I disconnect the battery and clamp it again, I hear again 10 seconds well over the loudspeakers, whereupon a dull noise sounds and the loudspeakers go out abruptly. I ch have connected my old radio (from the factory), here everything runs without problems (sound without trailer). I tracked down my amplifier, which is connected to the terminal 30,15 and 31 to the ISO plugs. Can it be because of this? Although it worked with the new radio for half a year without problems and with the old still everything works? Or maybe it is on the adapter? Have made some pictures of the amplifier and of my ISO plug and adapter:https://pl.vc/q3ghn https://pl.vc/15u6eihttps://pl.vc/14zm0vhttps://pl.vc/14pl4whttps://pl.vc/9xnrmhttps://pl.vc/13k4ds I would be very grateful for a quick answer. Mfg Timon98

Hello dear members, I have the following problem. I have an Alfa Romeo 147 built in 2009. I had previously installed a Pionieer Radio (No Standard Radio). I recently bought the Clarion VZ402E. I put the old one out, plugged the new one in and turned it on. Everything was ok. When I then installed the radio into the holder and switched it on, I had no sound. I took it out again and controlled all the connections. However, I could not use the radio. After hours of troubleshooting I gave up afterwards. The next day the ambition packed me and I tried to find the error again. At once the radio worked again perfectly although I did not change anything. I installed the radio into the holder and everything worked. About 4 hours later the sound just went off again during the ride. Radio however remained quite normal. Now my question, it may be that the radio has a protective function, where the sound is switched to mute in order to protect the internal amplifier? The funny thing is that it won’t even transmit a sound to the power stage even though the LS and subwoofers run on separate systems. (LS via standard Iso plug) Can it be that the resistance of an LS is not in Ordnun, that is to say, Wackekontakt has and therefore the radio switches to Mute? Please help me to despair….

Hello, I own a Corsa D from 2008 and wanted to install new boxes in the front doors. So the question came to me which are the best two ways system, i.e. boxes or which are the best components. My budget is 150 euros Of course the doors are insulated and a new radio ( JVC KW-R710E ) has already been installed. I hear a lot of rap and electric and prefer rather bass-loaded music, which the boxes should also bring over greeting A.B

Car: Audi 80 B4 (8C) 2.0 E Radio: Pioneer MVH-X350BT Dearest technical talent, I recently expanded the original “Audi Beta” radio in my Audi and replaced it with the above-mentioned radio. As the old radio ran over timeplus, an ignition plus was not installed. For the new radio I needed beside antenna adapter and ISO adapter also an ignition plus. I got this from the ignition lock, so that the radio as soon as the key plugs ect.. Now there is a problem with the radio reception, which was not available before:Who What How? – Engine off: radio reception super – Ignition on: radio reception super – Engine on: radio reception super – Give gas (without gear): radio becomes quiet + bad empfag – Decoupling or gas off at 30km/h: radio reception suddenly better – Decoupling or gas off at 140km/h: radio reception remains badMy idea: – Ignition plus from the ignition lock not disturbed (buy capacitor?) – Mass cable not connected properly?

Hello everyone, a buddy bought a very cheap car radio for his old Corsa at ebay. It is a no-name thing without a CD player, i.e. pure MP3 tuner. Now it arrived today and we wanted to install it immediately, but that proved to be more difficult than thought. Before that we had already bought an Opel-to-Iso adapter… usually that is enough. So original radio expanded, new radio unpacked and… nix! The radio has no plugs at the back, there are only bare cables to s I’m going to put a photo on so you can see what I mean. Do you have an idea how we can connect this? Did someone have a case like this? We haven’t yet! I (as layman) assume now that we most likely have to cut the cables from the adapter and connect them individually from the radio. Does this happen? If the theory is correct, however, is still the problem of the right connection for me. So what to connect to?? (nfo) LG

So, again I! I’m going to get a new radio soon! Have a look around me and want to ask you what you think about it! To the radio – it doesn’t have to play MP3 or stuff, but should be able to read burnt CD’s (no originals come in with me!) – it shouldn’t have a changer! (once bad experience, no desire for changers anymore!) – also need no frills to be on (e.g. touch screen…) – It shouldn’t cost more than 200€! – Oh j a, I don’t need a cassette Is that good? Have a small brochure of ACR available … And there (and on the I-Net page) I have looked at some: listen/see often the JVC radios here are very popular or? Or what can you recommend? I would have for example this : JVC KD S741R (ca. 99,-) JVC KD SX991R (ca. 149,-) Panasonic CQ-DFX301N (ca. 149,-) Sony CDX-L480X (ca. 139,-) What do you think of them? Which could you recommend? Or do you have others the price? /Leittsung can beat the 4? Hope you can help me here too Greez Micha

Hello, please don’t laugh at me or curse me the bones for the following questions 🙂 but I have little to no idea of car sound and am glad to have found such a forum. So long speech short sense. I have a Golf 3 which is currently equipped with the serial LS in the dashboard, a Pyle 290W and a 6 year old (heated) Infinity Cappa 1.0-3 way. The radio is a Sony CDX-CA850 (4x52W/4Ohm) Now I thought it was time for what newer. I imagined: a 2 way system(“Kombi-LS” for in the doors and again a 3way into the storage. For the Alage I would very much like a new power amplifier with a little more power, but it should not rob so much space, because I do not want to reduce the trunk volume very much. For this reason also in no case a SUB in consideration. Does it then make sense to use the “old” amplifier for the front LS? Or is it enough to control it via the radio ? What is the meaning of using the “old” amplifier for the front LS ? e Dimensions of power (W) should I choose the one for power amplifier, front LS and rear LS ? What do you mean ? As promised the volume for the “extension” amounts to max. 500 teuro ! I am grateful for every tip and for every purchase recommendation! Greeting from the Saarland !