Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

hello a well-known one of me has bought the radio mentioned in the questionhttp://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220177005371 now he is skinned there would be no cinch connections on it asked him again to see if there is still an adapter in the box then later also take a look yourself, but probably not today please in advance a bit info of you the thing has yes 6 pre-outs (front, rear, sub) at ebay but I find only 4-channel mini-iso ad apter (if that’s what it should be) maybe one of you knows the radio how does it work? are definitely needed the couple front-out and the subout… thank you mfg

Hallöle, since I finally started this WE with my new conversion, I want to put the whole online directly. First of all the IST recording: – not soo fitting – too high double ground (because of Powercap) – side parts not foldable, if bottom plate in it – final stage on the side part Here are the photos:http://img112/60/PICT1364Large.jpghttp://img112/60/PICT1366Large.jpghttp://img112/1751/PICT1365Large.jpghttp://img112.imageshack.us /img112/3741/PICT1368Large.jpghttp://img154.imageshack.us/img154/489/pict1369large5sk.jpg I wanted to fix all the flaws. The powercap comes behind the left side part, both power stages below the ground, the double floor thus deeper and the whole at all a bit more fitting. Furthermore, the cables should be reasonably located. Here is what happened so far The new base plate, much more fittinghttp://img143.imageshack.us/img143/8620/pict1373large2dn.jpghttp://img154.imageshack.us /img154/6425/pict1374large8nc.jpg So later the power stages should lie. The lower with the power terminals to the side part, because behind it is the cap. The other with the terminals to the right, because the speaker cables otherwise do not suffice http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/619/pict1376large2zc.jpg Here the whole with the foldable side partshttp://img143.imageshack.us/img143/9396/pict1377large8qh.jpghttp://img154.imageshack.us/img154/4341/pict1378large5yw.jpg The supports for the ground I will put t even tinker. In addition, the whole substructure is also covered with felt. To be continued

Hello together! And my power amplifier (Helix Dark Blue2) has not been working for a few days now. I have just looked at the problem. The problem is that my power amplifier does not get a power on the remote/reverse (is that what it means??). I mean the thin cable, which is connected between 12V and mass to the amp from the radio. By chance my amp was working by pressing the 12V power on the connection of the reverse cable at the end of the 12V. My theory is that could I buy a turnout and take the power in directly from the battery? Because in the overturned state, the amp, as before, only went with it when the ignition was switched on. If so, do I have to pay attention to something when I buy a turnout? The line from the battery to the amp has a cross section of 16mm2. Do I get such turnout in any electric shop? Or should I leave my finger on the solution? I would be very grateful for a tip. ar. Greetings AkoN

hello I have before me in the spring again to install a system in my car, should be really fine because I want to have as little as possible in the suitcase room I thought of 3 tmts in order to compensate the missing sub as well as possible and so that the whole not the medium and the tweeter overtoned I have before Jewels 3 medium and 3 tweeter insert everything in front understands itself ls are already fix it will be here +cdm54 or cdm 88http://www.morelhifi.com/products/mob_2 way_supremo.html as an amplifier I thought of http://www.trutechnology.com/products/copper/c74ssmk2.html what do you think of the idea to connect this amplifier to the fs? your opinion on my project would interest me thanks gruss

Hi, I have the following problem. I burned with an MP3 CD and wanted to hear it in the car. The car radio (Kenwood) can read both MP3 and WMA. With two other MP3 CD ́s everything works as it should. Just this one CD jerks and hangs up sometimes. Can always happen that the burner has built shit. I just wanted to try this and put the CD into the PC drive and listen again. Now it runs perfectly. So why is it that the CD in the car radio ruc other CD ́s work as I said. I haven ́t heard any more MP3 CD in the car for a long time, but it can ́t be because the lens and the rest of the radio doesn ́t really matter if an MP3 or a normal CD is played. Hope you understood what it is all about. ^^ mfg

Hi am new here and I also first found the forum looking for something tormented, but I still have a few questions^^ I found out that a good radio is not cheap and so.. but since I am still a bloody beginner I am looking for a radio in the price range of 150-250 € for the first time. The wanted radio should nevertheless not be the last rotz I also probably have to install new loudspeakers before me and therefore the radio should also have “reserves” around just new loudspeakers to be able to eat and a power amplifier etc.. but that first when I have more idea of the matter Now to my please : I have to buy the radio at a specialist store and so that I am not quite so stupid in front of the seller I would like to know in advance which values are important for me. Hold on to which values I should pay attention and what connection possibilities should be available. I just put together what I have and what I need and what not -Budget 0-250€ for the bike io -I have in my Opel ne LFB and I would like to continue to use this -I hear mostly rock and from time to time what Techno, Trance -MP3 CD`s play is mandatory -iPod connection I don’t need any case -USB connection would be nice but no need -I am proud owner of an Opel Astra G 1.6 Selection 3 doorr So I hope you can help me with the information already, if the information is not enough just say what you are missing. As I said, I’m still a newcomer

The MT should find its place together with the HT in the A-pillar. Initially, the HT should not be involved….. but take a look at New A-pillars, 2 self-sawed MDF-rings and 2 cardboard cups served as a base, bitle power glue to it…. then looked like thishttp://s5.directupload.net/file/d/1250/4yxn8u49_jpg.htm afterwards I laminated the whole thing at http://s4. directupload.net/file/d/1250/m3u7phfp_jpg.htm Now it was time to spat (black SMC carbon spatula, advantage…glass fiber and finish in one)http://s2.directupload.net/file/d/1250/mz7ddm28_jpg.htm After twice spatling and 24 hours later it was clear that the HT should be clean with…..that looked like this.http://s5.directupload.net/file/d/1250/6ayjaplq_jpg.htm again stood after spatling and grinding, now it looked quite acceptable already http://s5.directupload.net/file/d/12 50/crylpy93_jpg.htm now it’s been done…GRRRR!!!…but it’s been done…http://s3.directupload.net/file/d/1250/i83fhcva_jpg.htm now the future LS were allowed to sit here once a sample of the pagehttp://s4.directupload.net/file/d/1250/zo8krzf3_jpg.htm and once directly http://s2.directupload.net/file/d/1250/micz69yo_jpg.htm the rest is in work

N’Engend! I wrote the following text from the product description of the Xetec F.A.C.T F-3 active crossover: “Passive crossovers have high losses due to significant internal resistance. Even a very high damping factor of the good amplifier of e.g. 200 is reduced by the internal resistance of the crossover from an average of 0.8 ohms in the Woofer branch to pathetic 4.8 (four-point-eight !!) at the Woofer … And even of 1,000 there are only 4.9 left… Of 10,000, by the way. The woofer does what he wants, but rarely what he wants. …” I realize that with fully active compos the whole event is better than over a turnout. But that the damping factor soooo suffers very much from a turnout? What do you think?

I’ve read a little bit here now, because I’m now also part of the peeps without a radio. My girlfriend just called me, and told me that my Golf 3 was broken up. Radio and mobile phone change. Power amplifier and sub still everything inside, although with 2 handles also disapplicable. Now the question: whether and how much pays insurance (HUK24 with partial cascade)? Facts: – JVC KD-SX959R control unit was still there, bought at ebay. So the proof is no longer available. Can try with the Vor Owners contact by means of bank statements at the time… – remote control is still there – closed driver side is no longer possible. The key “entrance” is now vertical, no longer horizontal – car has a comfort central lock – the race management told my friend that only my father (since he is a vehicle holder) can report. And that’s exactly today!!! for 6 weeks to sail to the Mediterranean. What can you do there? – I definitely go tomorrow to those who can go Will you be able to help me? Will you soon have to answer questions for a new radio 🙁

hello. again ne ask about kick basses and installation! I have seen very horny dobo ́s with 2 x 16er kick basses per page and would like to have them too ;-). now the question: should I put a 13er away compo with the 2 x 16er kick basses in the dobo ́s or a 10er 2weg in the valves if I get the 10er pure ;-)? have only 8,7cm original at the jetta. yes, I know but I can not build a closed volume for the kick basses since I have no experience with gfk etc… so everything would have to be with mdf disassembly and the door lock completely cut…neeeeeee I would seal the door as well as possible with insulation mats etc. the kick basses I would switch in parallel and operate with a carpower hpb 602 or 604. the front system extra with nem amp. what do you think?