Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

So you know I’m the stupid chatter of the 30 euro fs from boschmann with a 40 euro roll and a toxic amplifier!!! so my girlfriend now has almost new 106 and has as HU a nice blue point radio with even 2x 25Wsinus but unfortunately are original only 130mm broadband speakers in it that only play with medium louder the bass beautiful!!! what I like and my girlfriends 130mm compo so 130er in the doors and in the mirror triangle ht ́s and ht the FS should cost so 70€ makes suggestions otherwise wanted to bring me tomorrow the crunch 130er compo from 99€ and the 100mm coax!!! you know even better compos for 70€ offer the good crisp bass???? and still what a bassbox and amplifier doesn’t want you since the car is financed and is new so only speakers in the original places!!!

hi I have a relatively weak car battery, the serial battery with 28 AH and the below mentioned components is installed. – that doesn’t go well for long is certainly out of question, but could I deal with the problem (flattering light, falling in-board voltage etc) provisionally (or delay) by using end stages with regulated power supplies? I don’t want the bat to give up her mind in 2 weeks, she is from 1999 and has had problems in winter without installation already the engine start, now eats of course even more critical. mfg

because my bass box (27L) consists of 20mm coated chipboard I thought some braxpaste products or something similar to lubricate on the housing walls…(from the inside of course*g*) the chipboard is really densely pressed for a chipboard, so one nets the immediately crumbs when you process it… and it is just white coated. very hard layer. it is also sealed and glued with acrylic on all edges as well as doweled. stable box simple. and half-cooked stuffed with sonofil. you knock against the tinkling it also listens a bit “holy”, so it’s somehow not acoustically dead… nevertheless the bass seems a bit horny in some songs. not that the suspected comes up I’m not satisfied with the combi, with other songs he is completely awesome. have never heard an installation where you could put in music what you wanted and the bass was always perfect… can you say that from yours??? he is currently separated at 63hz with 24db flanke. I tried a lot about separation but the perfect bass isn’t yet… I also somehow feel like some pieces are really bad, how can I say, mixed, extra drone bass including so in this direction… hope you understand what I mean!? well, anyway, can I get something from brushing the walls? (by the way, yesterday from 7893R to 9835R I swirled and was really surprised because there was a rather big tonalichen clearly audible jump forward as I would not have suspected)

Good morning! Got my brand new GZNW 15″ now and my brand new Hifonics Colossus XI Final Edition. Unfortunately, I have the feeling that the Colli just doesn’t bring enough steam … what could that be? Before I had installed a GZPA 1.2750SPL, and my old GZNW 15″ at 1Ohm. So 1900W RMS. Now the GZNW 15″ runs at 2x2Ohm with 2x955W RMS. So exactly the same performance. However, purely subjectively much less thrust comes than was the case before. W I don’t know. Since the GZPA is gone, even a Northstar NSB100FT has been added. So there’s no power shortage. Even if I turn the Colli all the way up, the voltage doesn’t drop below 12.7V. Somehow I’m at a loss. With the GZPA 1.2750SPL, I’ve brought my sun visors to the visible swinging and the rear view mirror has always turned all the way up. Now the sun globes are moving. No piece and the rear-view mirror only vibrates a little. However, the sub with the Colli seems to do more stroke than with the GZPA. (also subjective). That I have the Colli times bridge (but are then 0.5Ohm), won’t work, doesn’t it?? Does anyone have experience values? Does that hold out?? Thank you in advance, Daniel.

Hi guys, I got a condensation from Ratho the other day. Jetz of course I want to install the part as well…Just how?!The part is a Stealth STC-1000. Was a small diode with. From the principle it goes like this: battery –> +- capacitor –> +- stage (with max. 20 cm cable). The capacitor is then grounded… Oh yes…Remote line of course also on it. A buddy of mine has built in a capacitor and right at the start the picture tube from his Kenwood radio has torr Is there anything else to consider or what it might have been about?He had grounded the final stage AND condesator at the same mass point.What is the little diode for? Hope any of you can help me… Greetz Steven

hello people I’m slowly despairing… I’m looking for a final stage for my subwoofer, now I’ve read a lot here, zb: that the final stage should do something more than the woofer can handle and that’s where my next problem is the woofer needs 400 watt rms. the sinus live sl a-1500 I like of price performance but it’s apparently not so stable and resilient. the acr man also could not advise me so well because he has nothing there in the performance class. but maybe k Can you help me? Car: A3 HU: JVC BT 1 with extra subwoofer output… Music: Rock, German rock, Pop Price: around 250 euro thanks mfg Harti

now I have to build 2 blacklight tubes in the car at the pedals and stop at the passenger (at the feet down there), which I wanted to connect to a 3 channel switch, from the switch should go cable to the battery and to the amplifier (in the channel where the bass signal for the subwoofer comes) which is short: off/on/to the bass light, since blacklight is mostly cold light it always flickers briefly when switching on or lights correctly only after a short time, if you start them ” n” and then switch to the bass she would always turn on and go out, ask 3: 1. would the tube then just flicker as is usual with cold light when switching on/off? 2. the channel from the amplifier gives 1100watts, is that too much/sufficient/too little to operate the tube properly without the subwoofer having to suffer from it? 3. if that is present with the flickering, wouldn’t there be any evasive options? zb blacklight LED chain/tube

hey people, I connected my system to test it a week ago..naja there was everything, everything was connected correctly…from the cables..and connections.. so power cable to 12V from the end stage. chinch from radio to the end stage and remote cable from radio antenna connection to REM from the end stage and GND so mass to the body^^(does everything right?!?) well was happy..and the next day I wanted to try out a CD, then everything went for a few seconds and now goes nothing more..the end stage doesn’t even show power…s radio goes but still…. first I checked the security of the end stage and radio, and they still seem to be quite in order..d.h they are also .. well can I vll one help or vll tell if I have possibly done what wrong? many thanks to greeting markus

Now I get a 3512 (2x2Ohm) and it should run (at least for the time being) at my Eton 5402. After I got the tip from the one I bought the Woofer from (from the Termpro Forum, who had the same combo) that you can run the Eton to press it on 1Ohm bridge, the thought doesn’t let me go anymore. But what happens, how the 1Ohm are too much of the good? Will the level then turn on Protect or dissolve into smoke? I want that And one of you knows how much the Eton does theoretically at 1Ohm bridge? And then I thought about something (I’m pretty layman and I’m sorry if that’s bullshit): According to the seller, his impedance when pressing with the Eton has risen from 1Ohm to 3.5Ohm (so that’s possible at all). At the 3.5Ohm I should have something about the specified 1050W at 4Ohm, right? If I now e.g. an SPL Dynamics S 2000 d pick up and connect my woofer to 1 ohm, then the impendance will probably rise similarly high. However, the level is indicated at 4Ohm only with 700W, so should give up at the assumed 3.5Ohm only slightly more than the 700W at the pressure. Does this mean that my Eton (if she joins the 1Ohm bridge) brings more than a final stage that is twice as strong (with my Woofer, and I can’t go with it under 1Ohm)? I now only have the S2000 as Beis I don’t know if it’s more than indicated, but I’m just saying that the numbers are right. Do I see that at least theoretically right or do I have a mistake in thinking? MfG, Diddy

Hello experts … we have a passat with the CD300 system with 8 boxes, now there is the Dynaudio system with 10 boxes and we ask ourselves where the 2 other boxes are installed. We would like to get further some ideas which other systems are suitable for installation in a Passat 3C… your expertise is desired … and since we know that you can spend from 0 to 10,000 Euri, I think myself to the price category from 1000 to 1500 Euri max.