Hi I bought the following from 1 month: Helix Dark Blue 4 Helix Blue 62 MKII Helix Deep Blue 12 Single So now I have everything built in. Boxing in front also sound good and are also good loud only the tweeter is a bit loud but that’s ok. Now to the problem with the bass. I don’t know what to do. First of all how to position the bass best? With the woofer go an outer wall directed? very close? or rather playing into the whole trunk? I found the first one on But it still doesn’t sound good. Either I don’t hear anything from the bass at the back. Then they make more bass from the front system. Or I hear it but then it just buzzes. That’s what I wanted to ask anyway. I had 3 different subs so far 1. A Magnat bass plate with double swing coil I think 2. An Axton box but not closed but was a hole in it. 3. And now hold the closed housing. And with 2-3 I was not satisfied even though Magnat I don’t know how to describe it. I don’t know how to describe it. I don’t know how to do it. I don’t know how to do it. I don’t know how to do it. I don’t know how to do it. I don’t know how to do it. But how do I get a tight bass??? plz help?
Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum
-
Van Gogh very loud whimpering RCA OPEN???
Moinsen, when I started the ignition this morning An animally loud whimpering from the sub and the TMTs. I then took off the Cinch to the VGA and it was gone, again and it was there and it flashed the little lamp RCA Open, Cinch once exchanged, the same problem. In the description is the following, actually my English is so far good but that too much on the shock: “is illuminated if negative/ground audio reference point is ether” not securely connected or completely dis-connected. Note that selector switch must be in “sense” position the other two amps provide the FS perfectly. Link to descriptionDescription Click
-
Noise in tuner+CD operation
Evening together, I have a big problem with my front, from the Ht ́s and TMT ́s comes a relatively loud noise out, I don ́t think that, which still counts as unbearable, what can it be in the tuner or in the CD operation it always rushes in the background, with high loudness you can hear it sometimes but not very noticeable. When changing songs it is nevertheless very strong. As soon as I put the Vol. Rotator on 00 the rush is at once so pulling away completely, what k that’s what it’s all about? In addition, I imagine that it’s getting louder than it was originally. if I put in an mp3 cd, the vol. rotary controller is standing on about 1/4, the rush already occurs before he even loaded the cd. ? am baffled have already checked all the contacts everything sits tight and stable. Greeting Eddie
-
Audi Radio from Alpine???
Quotation: Hello and good day, unfortunately we must inform you that you can only connect the changers on your Audi factory radio that your Audi dealer or Audi Deutschland recommends for your device model. Some Audi factory radios were/are produced by Alpine, but according to technical specifications of the vehicle manufacturer. this factory radios have a data bus format that is not compatible with that of conventional Alpine radios. lo, I sent (at the top) an email to alpine because of infos about cd-changers… honestly, I can somehow not believe what’s up there. are serious audio radios(or were) partly produced by alpine??? mfg fllx
-
Low budget bass!
hi, people I need your help! it’s about the following: -new golf 2 Cl -someone TCM CD/mp3 radio -4 normal boxer -2 no name subs without housing (30cm & ca.25cm) -an old small end stage here times the dates: http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?… my question you can already think…currently no money because of new car + get. and therefore a decent audio system still has to wait! can you share some maybe something so I want to. just a little good mus ik can hear?? i’m not going to be super great but at least better than nothing for the beginning or? i had thought of a sub-body construction..just how do i do it because of the dimensions & and the volume calculation? for good tips or construction instructions I would be very grateful to you! mfg o-saft
-
Loudspeaker conversion
Moin people! So here’s the thing, I finally decided on speakers for my car. I think I’m going to start slowly! I’m going to buy only the new speakers for the door and the amature board. I was thinking about the Canton RS 2.16! (Canton RS 2.16) What do you think about it? I want to do without a power amp and test how it all sounds like… worse than with the standard Golf 3 speakers it can be How does it look like with the external crossover? How and where do I put it best? What do I have to bear in mind? Should I definitely install new cables? What is it like with the connections? The whole program stop, don’t have a trace of! Would be grateful for any comment!
-
level matching between bass and fs
hey. so I’m still relative newbie in the whole thing. about two months ago I got my horns sledges (caution: ironie!!!) and built in a system. amp: audio system f4-240s woofer: audio system mx12br fs: lightning audio b1.65c radio: jvc kd g-801 music: punk, ska, rock, metal wired etc is everything, have built doorboards for the speakers. sounds also real supi, am fully satisfied, but unfortunately I’m afraid that my system is totally wrong. so the su bwoofer is separated at 80 hz (you say so?!) and the fs then plays all over 80 hz. if I turn up the speakers on the radio fully, then I notice that they distort, then I should actually put back at the end stage the “volt controller” (no idea how the technical expression is for it), or? because otherwise the boxes are broken, is it true that one then calls that clipping or something? (as said, newbie! ) well, and with the bass it is the same, only unfortunately I don’t hear exactly, from what nn he distorted, because in my fucking car everything vibrates, sits, belts, roof, just everything, terrible. ka how to keep it in place, well. on my radio I always have the sub-output on max, because the volt controller is almost completely turned up at the final stage for bass, and for the fs just 1/3. maybe someone can help me there, as I best set it up, the system is think I probably many, was recommended by me as well. thank you already for the trouble and hope for many h Helpful Answers
-
Matching Sub for Megane ….
Hi…. Build a nice small system with my brother As the final stages there are 2 Helix HXA 400 MK II. The front system is composed of a 16 Coax of Helix… In the back come into the door 13er of Helix…. In case of Woofern we can not decide…. In closer selection are Emphaser X-Treme , Neo V2 or Kicker CVR12 as 12 inches version,….the kickers are once with 2×4 and 2×2 ohm….The case should be installed with 2 pieces. mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mfg Tom mf?
-
Separation frequency for tweeters during active operation?
Hello people! First of all: I got so far away with the noises and above all the noise. Stömüsche with the help of the NF filter and the noise simply by changing the final stage in the trunk. The stands now exactly on the other side of the trunk. Since then the noise has completely disappeared. Can not explain to me. But mainly it does. Thanks to everyone for the fast and competent help! To the actual question: I operate my front system active. Now I can set the following transition frequencies with tens of different filter levels: 6kH 5kH 4kH 3,15kH 2.5kH each with -6dB -12dB -18dB -24dB How should I separate the woofer and tweeter from each other?? Do not want to fry my tweeter. Now I have chosen the following constellation: TM-tones: separates the tweeter with a filter of -6dB the tweeter with a filter of -24db Is that okay?
-
Do you need a purchase tip?
Hi, I have 200 € left and need a power amplifier. Can someone recommend a good 4-channel power amplifier, which is about in this price range? 30 € back or forth, that doesn’t matter. (Have heard that Kenwood power amplifiers are rocking, but I’m not sure about that). The power amplifier should operate a subwoofer (I haven’t yet and if someone knows a good one . . . maybe from velocity or next, should cost 200 €) and a 2-way system from Canton (was once a 3-way system but I don’t think I’ll bring anything with extra subwoofer anyway). So, write everything, links would be right for me. Think you already have a clue about this, maybe more than I do! Mfg, Daniel