Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Hallihollo. I changed my radio recently and since then I have a noise in the rear LS when the radio goes on and off and I read a CD. I didn’t have that on the old radio and I didn’t change anything on the wiring. Where can it come from at once?

Hi together, as already described in another thread I plan to build a bandpass myself. The GZUW 12X from Ground Zero is to be built. Problem is now only the case calculation. I tried the whole with WinISD but nothing reasonable came out. Maybe you can help me with it. Use the dimensions of the entire box as well as the dimensions of the individual chambers. With the technical data on the chassis.

Hello, on recommendation from fluxwildly76 in another thread (http://www.motor-talk.de/showthread.php?…) I bought two Rockford Fosgate P112S4 Subwoofer. Thank you for the help and hope you can read with me and of course all the others. Now on the topic: I drive an E36 Coupe, no ski bag only foldable back seat. For the Subs I have to build a housing and I need help with the calculation etc. so that the Rockford 1. I’m not quite sure in which direction I should align the subs, whether to the passenger cell or the rear? 2. Should the box be divided into two chambers because of the two subs? 3 What wood is the best and how thick? Connection terminal I have to buy then. 4. Do I also need bass reflex tubes?? If so how long and how long??? I would like to build the case with a plexiglass wall in front of it so that the subs look good. mmen, maybe a few spike flow from the hardware store still with in to the peterde. How do I attach the Plexiglas best to the box? It is of course also about optical wants a small beautiful trunk expansion so to speak and of course also well Mucke, it is clear to me that not always everything can be arranged. I am grateful for any help, is really a very good forum!!

hi, the following question to the experts here: I drive an omega b caravan and would like to install a 20s subwoofer (possibly even a 25s, see) in the rear doors. per door, of course. since I was still active in the scene until 3 years ago, I am currently thinking of an emphasic neo for installation depth. however, I don’t have the thiele&small parameters at hand, or can I just conclude from this that they are suitable for the door installation. they should be put in a GRP board, like I installed it for the front, but still about the door volume running. until now there is a blue point Seattle MP74 as well as a GroundZero GZTC 2165T in the GFK board. it sounds very clean and powerful in my opinion. but since I hear mainly hardcore techno, there is something missing from the jagged bass. it doesn’t have to be loud, the times are over, but some support in the cellar would be nice. I prefer a closed box, but a box will be cancelled unfortunately. as a final stage I thought a box would be nice. Hifonics brutus who is born on 2 ohms as well as a 0.5F cap. I actually wanted to run only the 2 woofer over the level, because that radio is only about 60% exhausted, is loud enough. but keep out below, there was a lack…… does my calculation go so far or do you recommend me something else? (my stand the things has been as said up to 3 years ago, has happened a lot since then…..) thank you already. mfg, patrick.

Hello dear forum, this is my first post, and would like to add my first question I would like to install a front system in my car, where the following systems are buzzing around in my head: -Rainbow CMX 265 100/150 RMS -Rainbow SLC 265 70/100 RMS -DLS C6 60/100 RMS if I am not mistaken Do you think that the CMX will deliver more pressure than the SLC? Unfortunately, I haven’t heard all the systems yet. Have you heard the systems before? r lovely of 93… The Rainbows are already able to do 90 The whole thing is properly installed with MPX rings, and of course also insulated. The system is then operated on an Audio Art 400.2, which delivers a rich 200Watt RMS per speaker. Subwoofer is not installed, because I want to have a purely good front system firstma for a long time, which can also properly start alone, and thus level sound as well as bass should deliver enough! About the radio I have already thought about g emacht, possibly an Alpine 9831R ? The prices should move according to the following measures: Front system 200 Euro Radio 300 Euro <-- gladly also used! So now since you times what you think about it!

So I installed this in the back of my transit EuroLiner: Headunit: Alpine 9894R BassPower levels: 2*Rockford Fosgate 1000bd Subwoofer:4* Alpine SWR 1221d in 55l BR each with 7cmPort 2 standard batteries +1 additional battery with 85 Ah and 3*1F Boa Powercaps plus 35mm cables at short distances. Lowpass stands on approx.70 Hz and Subsonic on approx. 30Hz So, the bass sucks loud(I burst almost the head), the roof and the side windows move visibly. Only I don’t really notice anything about the body or the clothes! That can’t be!!!!!!!!! I tried every music: Hardcore,Goa,Schranz, Techno,Hip Hop,low bass music,BlachMusic… Wodran is that please?

Hi people Since I shot my super mega JACKSON final stage 😛 on Saturday I can finally buy something good……. I have an EM-PHASER EBR112XT3 subwoofer with 700 watt RMS and would need a few tips for a final stage should be brand new and net more than 220 Euros cost Thank you in advance Greetz reddragon

hello! I’m looking for a complete system (apart from a headunit, which I already have) for my golf and hope you can give me some tips. in clear text: 4-channel amp + front-ls + sub (finished box, I’m not so the handcrafter). the whole should move in the price frame from 700 to 900 euro. hope the basic idea is ok and I’m not on the (acoustic) wood path. listen mainly to rock, from time to time some techno gets lost in the c d-player. are the complete systems, as you can find them at www.bigdogaudio.de, something? some would fit into my price frame… e.g. this candidate. thanks in advance.

Hi, I’m about to build a “compact” speaker box. Roughly said box in the back of the trunk 1.20 m to 90 50 cm high, about 130 kg heavy with double bonding in the 3 power stages. 2 * 2000 watts max and 1 x 500 watts max. the 500 he I will use as a mid-high tone system and the 2 2000s I wanted to operate with 2 Jackson AL3200 each. Well, since I have read about the AL3200 already much bad I wanted now questions if someone would recommend me another subwoofer/k ann. ( should price also max. so around 100 € lying per piece ) Continue the question about the position of the bass reflex tubes, is that no matter where I install the one? Diameter length is calculated that is clear, but the position in the housing? Would be nice if someone can help me there, or helps me there. Greeting Dodi

So first of all: Puh finally goes MT again Ok so guys the day before yesterday it was time. I had an F measurement duchrführung. so the ATB PC Pro is really awesome to say. At first I had a miserable F history. In the meantime we ironed out almost everything that went. The sound difference is Imens. Thanks to my audiocontrol EQ ́s we were able to straighten almost all bands, and conjure a liner course. Unfortunately my EQ really does not have an adjustable Q-factor for each This is why we still have to work with the Hu erin little afterwards. My problem is what I have is that I can’t cope with the Snot settings. I read the HB, but there’s nothing in it, which is relevant. so it’s about: When I say at 15Khz we set it to +1 and then go to the next one, so 17,5 KHz it’s also +1. Why is that? I don’t want to increase all the tapes by +1.?!!?! The other thing is, you can n at HU only provide the low frequencies with a Q factor, the high ones don’t. Are there approaches? Unfortunately, I still have a tiny little handle in the F-course that disturbs my conscience. You don’t hear the error, but it just bothers me. PS: I can absolutely only recommend to everyone to have an F-measurement performed after a successful installation. The result is pure madness.