Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Hello, audio freaks 🙂 I have a question for the people among you who also know surround sound in the living room: So I was allowed to buy a DVB-T receiver now, because my living area will be switched to digital television in a few days. Since I have neither bowl nor cable, I did not have a choice and I had to buy this receiver. This receiver now has a digital output (S/PDIF digital output) and also audio R/L outputs. My DVD player ha t also this digital output and additionally 5.1 analog outputs. Now I would like to add a Dolby surround system (i.e. 4 LSP, center and bass) for these two devices in order to have cinema sound in the living room. I have already looked at such systems at Ebay, but am not sure if the thing works. My questions are now: Can I connect the two optical outputs to such a surround system with a Y adapter? Or should I better use chinch cable? What should I pay attention to when buying one of these surround systems? What can you recommend me for systems (up to about 200 teuro, gladly cheaper)? Thank you for your helpful answers. Greetz, der EJ2-Junkie

Hey people quite erlich I am a Western Styrian from Austria! And wanted to know if there are a few Austrians among you!!:-)MFG saferwulf

Hello Leutz, I have installed my *not laughing* active sub today. Now the part whistles and chirps powerful loudly when the engine is running. I just rummaged a little bit in the forum and experienced that you should move the chinch cable separately from the power supply. So far clear, I will still do. But now I still have the test, which the sub goes too quiet (is a Ravenland AXT 1000 II). I have two chinch pairs (rear and front) on my radio and have the sub now to the front connection. can this be related to it? However, my fader is on +/-0. It’s quite time-consuming to try the other connection.

Hello, I have the following problem and since I have not really found a solution here, I just ask: I have a monoblock: Spectron SP-1500D. 450W RMS @ 4 ohms and a 4 channel level: Spectron A-4150, 4 channel, 800 watts Hanging on the 4 channel 2 Hifonics Zeus 3-way triax speakers 6×9″ ZXi-693 with 150 watts RMS and 2 Hifonics Zeus ZS62CX 16.5 cm, 90 watts RMS. My problem: When I turn my radio (Sony CDX-GT420U ) on a loud bar of 11 or 12 turns the front system and rear system off, the woofer works without mucking on and the 4 channel level also stays on and Protect does not shine either. Backups I have exchanged all already and remote cables as well as chinch cables I have already exchanged … I really don’t know any further, has here some plan Would me mega be happy about your suggestions !!!!! Thank you already

Before I write a lot I better get to my problem immediately:Important values: 1. Ford Puma with 70A alternator. Measured value with running engine 14,35V 2. “Motor off”: (car on the eve 9km driven with increased volume): Measurement in the morning afterwards 12,35V 3. Battery: slightly older, Berga Basic, 53Ah cold current test 470A 4. “+” battery up to power stage about 5meters long in cross section 35mm2 5. “-” 1x ground point rear seat & 1x ground point carouses each 10mm2 and both about 25cm long 6. Power Amplifier: Monacor 1/1000D 1200Rms (Gain at approx. 70%). Connected is an Esx Signum Sx 1222 2×2 Ohm Subwoofer with 750Rms in 1 Ohm operation Sonstieges: line alternator to the battery still unchanged & line battery to the ground point also original. I do not have sufficient power supply. The light as well as the incurrent lighting flicker strongly. The laid 35mm2 cable is copper cable class6 so pure copper. So the cause at this point I exclude. both mass cables from the trunk to the power stage are 10mm2 Ofc copper cables with which I used before only the one power stage for the front system. Now the question is, to which I have to go further to ensure a good power supply. I ask first of all for professional and above all usable recommendations. I am grateful for every advice. Oh yes, the second power stage for the front speakers I have briefly disconnected. The voltage drop remains unchanged (ESX SE 480) Thank you very much 🙂

Hello, you. First the bad message, my twingo “accidented”. economic total damage. the good message, I get a new, 16V.cooool!! the old system I will probably sell. however, I already swirls a new concept in the kopp around. The front shelf with bitsl chic and GFK can convert so that the n complete 16 front system can record. Everything nice with closed volume and forced TMT for direct sounding. I already have in the usual technical What do the “big fitters” do with the vents in front?? What do I have to pay attention to in terms of direct sun exposure and possibly tear and tear??? Paint or cover???

Hi again, a pity that no one has answered yet. just wanted to change the caption of my old topic because it was somewhat inappropriately chosen… didn’t go, was already too old. so sorry for the 2nd topic. my old mdx-c6400r had to go out…the buttons had a wobbly contact somewhere, the loudness knob didn’t want to do as I wanted (independent of the wobble contact), the display then just spun something and the radio reception really didn’t have any more now I finally got a new HU (sony cdx-ra 550) and I have to say that I didn’t think what the sound AND level could get out of my system!!! with the operating and control options I am also satisfied… could just use plug and play and the changer and the stick work as usual. however, I now have a problem which can only be heard at the LS in the doors (~100-800 Hz). it’s about magnat power bull hitting me dead coaxial LS as TMTs controlled by a pyle qa4400x. when I turn up the radio on 21-23, which is really quiet with me through the alto, the magnat trots start to crack. on 21 zb after 30 seconds…with each blow you crack more. at 22 it goes a little faster and at 23 jerks…depending on the music I hear right now. now I don’t have the possibility to find out exactly what it is…the pyle end stage or the magnat speaker. I also have the impression, because they j a can also be connected to the separation capacitors from the magnats, it is a coax system that just give up the mind? the problem I had with the HMTs in the amaturary board, also koax…however, it just made peng and the capacitor was disassembled 😛 I know, I know…sometimes murky bockmist…but with the opportunity, when it comes to the LS, I can get away from you right away. I want a new front system when the LS is to blame. price up to approx. 250€. hope that anyone is able to say with these infos: THAT’s it…that doesn’t like the processed performance and will definitely break ^^…clear that it’s not 100% to say but you can bring me a little closer.

Hello, I wanted to ask if one of you has replaced his original work radio Navi 650 (with color display) with a Pioneer radio or something like that? A competent employee of ARS24.de said that it is not possible for this infotaiment system to replace it with another, because “it is deeply integrated in the vehicle electronics company”. But I can’t and don’t want to be completely glimmering. However, there really is no CAN bus adapter that explicitly uses for the Navi 650 we rden can. There is only the 42-HVX-301 and this is only compatible for Opel model with CD300/CD400 (without color display). Or does this adapter work? I hope you can help me.

Hello, dear people As a “Rudi-No-No-Knower” I venture here an entry to get opinions or advice from you. In my new car (panda 100 hp) I would like to have a car-hifi-system of the brand “Alpine”. This should consist of the following components: CD/Radio Alpine, CDA-9852 RB (or CDA 9812 RR) CD-Changer Alpine, CHA-634 (6 CD/MP3/Ai-Net) Amplifier Alpine, MRP-F450 (4×70 Watt, 4 Ohm) Boxes (4 Stk) Alpine, SPS-17C2 (2-way coaxial loudspeaker) 50 watts rated power , max. power 250 Watt Alpine, SPS-171A (2-way components) 50 Watt rated power, max. power 250 Watt) My questions: 1. Do the parts fit together? 2. Are there (better) alternatives from Alpine? 3. Does anyone have experience regarding the sound characteristics of the boxes (very good, good, medium, modest)? 4. Would you add a subwoofer in addition? 5. General remarks about this “concept” of you? My budget for the individual components total Euro 1’300.00 (excl. Thank you very much for your vote.

So people, after I finally have steel rings for the TMTs and have everything installed, I want to write a little report. 1. Problem in the convertible is clearly the bass and that much volume simply “flys away” through the not existing roof. On the bass is still working (also with the Flex^^). Therefore already powerful TMTs have to come. I decided for the Ciare CW 162, because these are also relatively cheap to get. The doors are of course properly insulated. (I have re-edited on the inner sheet, now the door board is only not going on with much force The fixing is of course still worthy of improvement, because the Golf IV convertible holders are a bit unstable, but if I wobble on the TMTs, including steel rings, the inner sheet rather shakes than that the holders give in, so I think that’s OK. Since the holders are open, I made a case as closed as possible with bitumen so that the TMTs play on the inside sheet. I’m very happy with the installation and the volume The steel rings have already paid off for the MDF rings before. (Thanks Doom). A big problem was to get the TMTs through the steel rings, because the magnet always wanted to cuddle with the steel ring 😛 But see a few pics here, constructive criticism is desired, even if I don’t really have a bock anymore to remove the door board An Audison SRX2s with 180 watt RMS per channel serves as the final stage for the TMTs. http://meingolf3cabrio.de/wbb2/attachment.php?attachmentid=8650http://meingolf3cabrio.de/wbb2/attachment.php?attachmentid=8684http://meingolf3cabrio.de/wbb2/attachment.php?attachmentid=8685