Hey guys, I’m now ready with my expansion to accommodate the HTs (Domis) cleverly. A dream would be to install the decent in the A-pillars, away from the stage and so I was looking for myself now a little bit through the forums and am relatively clear in the processing of GFK, but would like to secure it somehow, since this will be my first GFK project. FRAGEN I do here, since just now the big DOBO thread has run or runs. So I take my A-pillars cladding. Bastle mi For example, from GFK and wire scaffolding my HT holder so that it is aligned. Then I cover it with a carrier material such as bed sheets or better probably form fleeces? I water it now with polyester resin and glue the mats with it. I wait until it is hardened and then grind until I have a smooth top vial for varnishing / covering. Is that so far correct? What makes me particularly headache is where I get the stuff. I have a GFK set g Is there really everything there? Tools and so on I am armed to the teeth, have everything there Is there anything else I should/must consider? By reason of security measures or something? Don’t get me wrong, I’ve only read a little bit about the processing of GFK and unfortunately I don’t know anyone who could help me.
Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum
-
Hi Problem with the lzk and Sub
I have set up my lzk to my satisfaction except for small problems she doesn’t play quite as far up as I would like her to play from the armature rather than on her But that’s not my problem I want to bring the sub even further forwards like I do with different basses I just hear him play from the back in the trunk and then don’t fit into the picture of the front system but that only with some songs what can I change?
-
Risky structure?
Hello, I’d like to install 10cm midrange driver in Golf IV soon… Since I don’t have any original photos, I have only the following options: -1. Snibble dashboard and let it play against the windshield -2.Make a small case(structure) and align the midrange driver directly on me Only with the 2nd version I still have my concerns…. Because such a construction is quite striking!!! That looks like a magnet on thieves!! And my car is not in a garage ….And also not always in the best areas… I don’t want to find a broken car after 2 months!! I’m totally desperate!… What do you think?? Mfg Olaf
-
Eyebrid better than Ground Zero???
Moin! Was earlier at the ACR and bought distance rings for my Canton CS2.16. Originally I had to get a Ground Zero TB 300BR (139€), in addition a GZ 4200X (199€) Now I asked on the occasion directly if one can get me these things. Yes one could, but then they told me that the Eyebrid Y4Y450 should be quite decent for 199€. In addition an Eyebrid Y12.1BB for 149€. Interesting is that the Eyebrid ES has two power supplies and 2x50W and 2x100W. Man also told me that if you break the 2x100W in a test 350W RMS come out. Sound quite tasty. But then they also wanted to tell me that Eyebrid Ground Zero from the low budget segment sold. I didn’t really want to believe that, I read a brochure and went home. I went into the inet and browse. But I’m not much further away, the ACR guy had the typical ACR function, the own stuff. Now I would like to get the confirmation. e both Eyebrid things should be a total of 10€ more expensive and then better than the two GZ???? Unbelievable I find. What do you think about it? Maybe you have other suggestions? Anyway I need a new power amplifier + 12″ sub incl. BR housing. Power amplifier max. 200€ and sub max. 150€. Because if the suggestions cost more, I resort to my GZ solution and GZ is really not from bad parents. thank you already!
-
how much current can the remote connection?
hello, have the problem that my end stage bits are getting hot in the heat, so let’s have a fan, and see it was history…now I can’t let it go all the time, so the idea is to just clamp it to the remote line of the end stage, so that’s how both go (parallel of course). only one question remains: does the radio hold out if it has to send 250mA to the remote line all the time? is there any data or experiences? n
-
How do I connect my shark v9 amplifier?????
HI, I know that there are several entries on the subject, but somehow none of them have become smart. So far I have come: power cable from the battery to the amplifier. – Cable connected to the body. Sub and 2 speakers connected to the amplifier chinch cable and remote cable from the radio to the amplifier closed. My problem is: I have juice on the thing, but the sub and the speakers don’t give any sound of themselves!!!! Is 3 channel have a over on my amplifier 4 inputs for my chinch cable. 2 for rear input and 2 for front input. but have only 2 plugs on my chinch cable. Is my problem because I need n`other chinch cable, or did I forget anything else??? I don’t know any more, am grateful for every answer!!!
-
Every now and then with CarHifi-installations earn some money – liability? Questions!
Good evening dear forum people, especially since I have already realized some CarHifi installations, I thought that with my 16 years I could earn something from just these (so far always for free for friends etc.) something. Now I would like to be interested in what you fundamentally think of this idea, what expectations I can have, how much I can “request” and how I “break” for what (per installation, per built-in radio etc.) … ? Like me, the problem of liability is there – or how do you see it? What if the car I have made an installation burns after half a year – even if I don’t bear any blame for it myself, especially since everything was covered by the cable cross-section and this was chosen on the basis of the required performance … ? Could one exclude or minimize a warranty/liability, then Felix would be obliged to write a sheet of information, such as if the system were not operated for too long without an engine?
-
A bit more sound 🙂
tach auch.. i drive a golf 3 as 3 doorr. i now have a xetec xi240 endstage, a crunch xfat 400 sub and an aiwa cdc-r30 mp radio here the link to this:http://www.preissuchmaschine.de/product_319968.html i would like to have a bit more sound from the front. i thought of a small front system for the doors, since i am already satisfied with the tweeters in the A board. should not be too expensive. so up to 50 or 60 € in the turn. is not much, but meh meh r kale I don’t have anything left. also I had considered making a few boxes on the rack. please don’t run away. I know it’s stupid, but from behind you don’t have any sound at all except the bass and every time someone sits behind you, he complains that you wouldn’t hear anything. what can I do? hope you can help me
-
Best sub + amp of the world
Hello friends, here’s a video of the best subamp in the world in action. Always on the small DD, that doesn’t bother the is lil jon – what you gonna do without subsonic and son kinderkram.http://rapidshare.de/files/11195798/video_0002.avi.html mfg carauDDiohanZZ
-
What tape pass?
hi, I would like to build a new housing for my sub (heart it 300). since I would prefer a less deep housing I thought to build the sub obliquely into the housing. thereby ask me the following questions 1. in which direction should the magnet or the membrane show? 2. how much space do I need at the closest point min between membrane and box? 3. which port should play in the direction of the ski bag, on the membrane side or on the side of the magnet? in case I’ve explained all this too stupidly I put on some basic sketches… I hope you can help me a little bit, thank you already alex