Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

As reported, this model has been sold at ebay! The information says that it is a 2×2 ohm. On the stickers, however, it says the following: 2456 DD35K-4/4 05-2002 The Diddy here in the forum meant that it is a 2×4 ohm according to the information. Not that I don’t believe him, I just want to hear an independent opinion, because I wrote to the seller about a return. But he claims that it is certainly a 2×2 ohm, he has even seen the invoice… What me in you?

Hello, since I don’t come to the installation of my stuff and somehow I don’t want to have new TMTs. In the car it looked like this: per page 2x Spirit L16 on each SPIRIT A 260-4, tweeters remain the DT-284, everything was actively controlled over the two A-260. So the whole shoot is still here. Music direction is everything and it should be properly leveling. Price? good and cheap Are then also actively controlled over an A-260. Would also an A-260 and a paa ry the L16. Who still has something used *zuolischiel*

Hello everyone, I would have a little question, and that is a software for calculating the housing volume. And if I calculate a very large box (larger than the system as optimal) to get out even more low bass, the level drops around some db. Could there be other disadvantages with large bass reflex boxes, such as dynamics, impulse fidelity?? Would I be happy if someone took some time and gave me some answers. Thanks jellyfish

Hello I had until recently extreme whistling in my car. Now I have simply connected the mass of the chinch to the housing of the radio and it is almost no longer heard. My blue point Paris RCM 104 has 2 preamp outputs (4 channel, front/rear out). I am currently using only the front out and have simply connected the mass of the chinch to the housing on the left rear out channel (which is not used). Is that enough, or do I have to do this for front AND rear out?? Or even on every channel (that would be 4 times in my case)?? At the moment, as I said, I only put the mass on one channel on the housing and there are still noises to hear (but much quieter than before!). Later I want to use the rear out as well. Then another question: What is exactly the urach of the whistle, if you get it away by connecting chinch mass and radio housing?? In my case, not only the whistle is annoying, but also the changer noises (change from tracks/CDs) and the noises when I turn the ignition key and and and and. As I said, all noises have become much quieter, but would be nice if you were completely gone Thanks gruss Pipeline

Hi Leude, I have some questions that I hope you can answer… And although I want to build a bass reflexbox myself, how do I expect that volume to get the best bass yield out????? I thought in my plan on a box with 2 subs in a box, but still for stabilization, with a board in the middle separated. There should be 30ér subs. And no matter the problem, they box, should not become too big, as it should be installed in a lupo. , in short: a bass reflex box, with core bass that fits into a lupo. And one more question at the end, have you had experience with the brand MC fun, if so which one?

I would like to build a Br-Box for the Intertechnik MDS 12 DVC. I thought of 2 bass reflex tubes with each 10cm diameter. As net volume I thought about about 55liter, because I don’t have so much space and the bass is supposed to play from 40 liters or so well (according to manufacturer!). I wanted to build the front from 19mm MDF and the rest from 22mm chipboard. Is it better to lay the chassie and the pipes upwards direction or to build the rear direction? If the bass looks backwards would be the maximum box height 35cm. With Chassie up correspondingly less. max. depth is 40cm. What dimensions would the case have to have? Thanks already to all

I have a BMW E30 convertible – in which the bass is clearly missing! But I don’t want doorboards! And a spare wheel woofer doesn’t do anything! Now I’m sure there’s a few smart ones saying: You have a ski bag opening through which you can guide the bass into the interior, or at least a pre-cut sheet metal that I just have to cut out! FALSE!! There’s nothing! The trunk is absolutely DOWN! I can’t cut around on the METall wall either, because it’s a supporting part! is! (You see I’ve been well informed) So who has an idea how to bring bass forward anyway? (Best someone who has tried this successfully – and for pictures I would be a bit more grateful) Thank you SCHLAUBI

What did you think of the two variants? My questions: 1.)What do you think better Brax anti noise exvibration or bitumen mats? 2.) Would Brax anti noise exvibration be enough to dams alone? Question as mann would save weight!! 3.)Have already read carefully in a few Threats about dams!! Have heard that a mixture should not be bad? So to speak Brax anti noise exvibration on the outside sheet of the door & bitumen mats on the inside sheet as well as over the different holes at the inner sheet!! Does it seem plausible to me, what do you think of it?? MFG and thank you in advance!!

Hi guys I just wanted to introduce you to my new AMP for my front system. My luck was that the power amplifiers hardly “yet” anyone knows, and therefore I got this power amplifier, well, let’s say more than cheaply. Does anyone from Velocity alias Blaupunkt know the VR series? Who knows you or has heard you once, certainly knows that the AMPs already at that time gave a great sound image to the speakers. Here are some data: RMS Power 4 Ohm: 2×100/1×300 Watt RMS Power 2 Ohm: 2×15 0/1×500 Watt RMS Power 1 Ohm: 2×200 Watt Frequency response – 3dB: 10 Hz-70 kHz Signal noise distance: > 95 dB Input sensitivity: 0.3 – 8 V High pass filter (high pass): 40 – 250 Hz Low pass filter (low pass): 40 – 120 Hz High pass and low pass infinitely adjustable Secured with 75A (3x25A) Who of you still knows the VR series?

Have I ever asked a question I play with the thoughts of building my little PC and putting it all in a small wooden tower (built yourself)….. then place somewhere in the trunk and use the PC as an MP3 player and as a navi…. my question I take a voltage converter or a 12V power supply? If where are there such PC power supplies for 12V running in the car? Still how can I connect the car radio to the PC to play music? Or how can I do that?