Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

I have slowly gray hair, just tried with winisd alpha to calculate a housing for the axx1010. the tsp I took original from raveland and to the devil I just can’t get on the proposed 20 liter model with the same tuning. I wanted to compare the woofer for the test in winisd with my woofer, but on the basis I don’t get a valid result. what am I doing wrong? does someone have a idea? what do I have to do with the waltz if I have a hair use type goes? I have chosen the following: the woofer->number of drivers and normal (no isobarik)->vented->c4/cs4 (sub-)chebyshev. I now give the information (20liter,port 7×15) according to raveland I come to the following result: tuningfrq:52 hz and spl at 50 hz with approx. 87 db raveland does not indicate the tufrq but according to which information the woofer has at 50hz approx. 90 db? as I see the tuning sucks because then he can not deeply. and can tell me what the information: qb3 qua si-butterworth bb4/sbb4 (super) boom-box 4/cs4 (sub-)chebyshev ebs3 extended bassshelf -3db ebs6 extended bassshelf -6db mean? sry for the many text but I hope someone can help

Hi, I’m probably going to drive two DLS A6(on 2Ohm), as well as an Eton PA5402(on4Ohm) and an Audsion Lrx150.2(4Ohm)… are about 2.4kw rms…. I’m going to install a 120A Lima in the front and move a 50mm2 charging cable to the rear. There’s also a separation relay installed, so that the system only gets power from the batteries that are installed in the rear. I was thinking about two Exide X-treme with 70AH and 530A each…. Then I wanted to switch 6 Alfatec 1F Powercaps in parallel and install them. Or would it be more useful to switch 3 Exide X-treme with 50AH and 360A parallel and do without the powercaps?? Cable path from batteries to power amplifier max. 30cm Mfg Olaf

So I’m super enthusiastic about my Helix power amplifier, but I have a problem with it, the performance is missing. At the moment my front system runs fully active (separated from HU) on my Helix. Jetz I have 2 possibilities: 1. I throw out the Helix and get me a 4 channel with power 2. I get a 2 channel for the TMT and keep the Helix for the scans or someone has a different idea best I want to get something needed, because I have too much money I also have a problem. he signature can see the trunk expansion, I have only limited space available!

Hello! So I decided to put my XION 15 in a bandpass housing, which is then to be built in such a way that the opening of the housing through the first aid box plays in my 124er Limo into the interior, because behind the back seat the tank is sitting and the only opening this is from the first aid box. Question is now, who does this or would someone from the forum here, of course against appropriate remuneration, prepare the suitable To build housing for my car or for the sub? Would I be very pleased

Sooooo, Until I have some time again my car will surely pass by 2-3 months but the system should then be ready to be ready to make it. I have now 2 15 full Xions in the SVC variant lying around which I want to heat according to the stand. So we are looking for a 2 channelr or a mono amp which at 2 ohms bridge or 2 ohms properly power is pressed.From there already seen a lot, RF X9, RF T2000…, or a Colli. Also possible 2 2 channel amps with the thought 2 sometimes PA 2802 I have already played but where with the two one would be already better from the place.Ach ja Fun oriented hearing is of course in the foreground there may also be some control there. So shoot off, thank you. Oh yes 130€ would really be the absolute limit of pain.

Servus, first of all I wish you all a healthy new year 2006!! So I decided now for the Hertz ES-250. It comes now in a closed housing, what I would like to build myself. On this link:http://www.bigdogaudio.de/pd1007884974.htm?categoryId=43 you can find below all the data for the housing calculation. But there you can find, still a little further up, under technical details, data which do not match. At the one comes: VAS: 65,25 QTS: 0,4 4 FS: 23,3 = 41,24 L at the other: VAS: 55,40 QTS: 0,37 FS: 27 = 20,89 L there is already a huge difference or? Which should I use now or does someone happen to also have this sub? Another small question, there are two models once with 4 ohms and once 4+4 ohms. What is the difference and which is better, there are sound differences? Sorry but I don’t know myself at all from beautiful greetings, Serkan

Hello, I’m actually very happy with my next power amplifiers but I could imagine a strong power amplifier for my two RF subs in the distant or near future. I’ve already seen a little bit at Ebay. Could the two 4 ohm subs so run as 2 ohm. I saw an EMPHASER EA2190, which delivers 1 x 1000 watt RMS at 2 ohm. Then I saw an ETON PA 2802 with 1200 watt rms which is too expensive for me. So what is there for amplifiers that at 2 ohm about 800 wat t RMS up and that might not be too expensive? No new one doesn’t have to be. Now a bass gets 420 watt rms and it should stay there so a good 2 channel or even a monoblock I look for greeting plugs

Meal! No, this is not a thread like tens of other same topics. The problem arises as follows;z.zt. I have installed an HX400 in my golf.A final stage with, as I think, a super price-performance ratio.The good piece should now give way to a “something” stronger variant. Task:The final stage is installed under the passenger seat and this should not change.Question therefore; which final stage you can recommend to me when the installation dimensions are not essential are different from the Helix, and still has more power for the classic 3-channel operation? Greetz Arni

I don’t have the subwoofer yet, and I choose a subwoofer with as little depth as possible. Now to the actual question (see picture): Mostly the subwoofer housings look like in variant 1, but this minimizes the loading depth imens. Therefore my idea, variant 2. I want to build a housing with as little depth as possible, and pull this up as shown in the picture up to the seat can, and use the full width. (In a single sub correspondingly “same”. a. How close can I go with the magnet of the sub to the rear wall of the case? b. Is it possible to expect a different (bader) sound at the same volume than with variant 1? c. Does the volume have to be calculated differently with variant 2? d. Would it be meaningful, as in the picture with d. marks this relatively tip corner “to straighten, and, then the bass reflex tube must be pulled further? e. The following question arises with me: What is the decision for the bass reflex tube? d? Anyhow the length, but could one also lay out the raflex tube, as shown in the picture at the bottom right, which would then correspond to “d.”? Or is this protruding into the housing (as shown at the bottom left an essential part of the bassreflex? f. What diameter should bassreflex tubes have at least? And, would the installation direction be like in variant 2 ok? g. Are there recommendable subwoofers, with low installation depth? Which? Questions about questions, I hope you One or the other can answer me best all.

Hi, would like to do an experiment soon… have a 10cm midrange driver from a 3 way system lying around and I would like to buy a cheap HT and make a soft tinkering and then build a small “monitorbox” from everything… to MT I can say a lot, is en DLS from the current 3 way system… soft I build myself bwz. try several variations…but suggestions you can still make 2 x tweeter together max. 60-80 euro… can also make more expensive suggestions make that I can then look needed at ebay… to sound, well, he should just inspire me a little bit for the money