Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Have this text already in the Opel forum … but I think that the question is not wrong here either… “Did a chinch cable pull directly through the car. No noises got better. Even if I don’t have a chinch cable on the radio the noise is there. So it’s not on the radio. Did then try to run the system ONLY over the second battery … didn’t work ??? I’m perplexed. Why doesn’t it? Then I only have the mass from the first battery to the second go The system starts again (i.e. the power amplifiers). How does that work? Why doesn’t the system run with the Exide Maxxima?? Only if I take the mass of the main battery with it, the power amplifiers run (but the faults are still there)! I thought it was on the battery. I then connected everything to the main battery ONLY… And look, this is at the end!! 11V shows my measuring device. The Exide has 12,9V! I couldn’t even have the Aut o so start. But the Helix power amplifier is still on and has given everything only distorted again. Was afraid for my LS. What can that be!!?????? That I need a new main battery is already clear!”

problemchen mit kunstoffgemisch halli hi, i have a little challenge in front of me and wanted to ask advice. i am currently working on doorboards for a renault megane classic. its original boards should be reused. i build on these original boards mt photos and want to connect them with the original board using gfk. problem is that the surface of these sch*** boards are somehow extremely stubborn. no matter what I stick up there, nothing remains. I tried the following: 1. sand on the surface and stitch it with stick-intermediate. then use glass fiber spatula to glue the parts together. result = I can remove the glass fiber spatula completely from the board-> no connection entered. 2. surface sanded holes drilled and coated with stick-intermediate. glass fiber spatula applied and additionally pressed into the bores. Result = the same as at first, however, there was through the holes but that’s not enough because both parts were still mobile. now I want to use kunstoffprimer, since someone has a recommendation for me what’s good? or any other idea?

Have a few questions. So I have a Ford Focus. And the Alpine CDA-9812RB. 1. This adapter cable from Alpine to Ford, is there another cable for all Ford models or is there only one? So I have the HU from a buddy and he had a Ford Escord, can I take the cable for the Focus? 2. I want to connect to the HU the 4 Standart LS. Does it bring what if I pull an extra power cable from the battery to the radio or is the cable sufficient for what is normal in it? a already asked my dealer but he only meant that you have to try it. My buddy from whom I had laid the HU an extra cable but didn’t notice any difference. 3. How can I put the cables from the front in the inside and in the trunk of the Focus? Is there somewhere an opening where you can easily reach it? Thanks already!

Next month my new Honda Civic is to be delivered. Of course I am not satisfied with the standard loudspeakers. For this reason a new front and rear system, a subwoofer and a suitable power amplifier should be produced. Because I lack the experience when installing and selecting the components, I would like to handle this via a professional company (so installation + selection). Do you think with 1000 € you already get something good or should I invest more ? Thx Olli

Have a good evening light, have a problem, vllt. can give me tips or help me. And this is about the following, have a high-low adapter for the Cinch outputs, remote I got on the antenna amplifier and mass as usual in every car under the belt fixtures and 12V from the distribution box, you call it so?!?! ALso that was already there already with the Golf IV and with my E39 is now also the case, that there is a socket, where all cables of components the current br so let’s say 5 things need electricity, and then there’s a big cable direction battery + but I think you know what I mean Well, all funzt still great, all lautsprecher etc… only the power stage and of course the subwoofer don’t want to jump on then Where could the error lie, have really no plan. Thanks for every tip and advice greeting Ricky

Hey, my starter battery is starting to give up when I haven’t driven two to three days, the car doesn’t start without a starter… On this occasion, I would get a second battery for the trunk to get rid of the unwanted stoboscope effect of the headlights. However, since I have a company car and my convertible only drives every few days, and then mostly only short distance I think about a stronger Lima maybe more meaningful The battery not only wants to be unloaded but also charged, well An audio system F4-600 (amp), two phase thriller 12, and an Eton PRO 160X (FS) have to be supplied with it. As support is already a 1F SilverCap in it and the whole was wired with 35mm2. What would you recommend to me? Perhaps two Exide X-TREME XC08 (70A)? Or rather a XC10 with 100A and a thicker Lima? Or something completely different? The Lima is the originals from the 2.0l 115PS Golf 3 Cabrio (without climate), unfortunately I can’t say how much ampere she has… Thanks & Greeting cu Turrican

Hello and greetings! I’ve always been on the road in this forum since I was interested in this hobby. But only write if my hair is on the mountain due to comments from others or if I want to get suggestions about my new concept… My Punto is currently completely empty, cleared out, because my Alpine has been sent back to the guarantee service anyway, and that probably still lasts. If everything is there, I will probably get a big package in the current week, then I have The doors will be insulated with MXM mats in the outer and inner sheet as well as in the cladding. The loudspeakers, audio system HX Dust, will be mounted on aluminium rings, which will be kept at a distance by multiplex from the door. I hope the original covers will fit on it again… In the mirror triangles come the matching audio system HS 25 Vol – tweeter, not directly aligned to the driver. The Hertz HX 300 works in a closed housing. The power stages are an audio type 120.2 for the HT, a μ dimension for the TMTs, and a finally repaired HTL 402 for the Hertz, at 2 ohms. The cinch cables are the summer “Goblin”, self-made. As power supply from the standard original battery a 35 cable goes away to the additional battery, a Hawker SBS 15, in the trunk, from there a 35er in mass, and a 35er each (also plus and mass) to two parallel ges From there, two 35s go to the power stages. A fuse comes in front of the additional batt, after that I did not plan any more, is not bad, isn’t it? The radio is supplied with 4mm2 cable and a 0.01 F (I know, not much) cap, also secured again on the batt. So, do I imagine this with the planned power supply right now? Yes, right? And: Are the caps useful? And: The batt is now one that I don’t often have to recharge myself, whom n I drive a long distance every other day and my Lima delivers 14,4 V, right? Please don’t again have a fundamental discussion.. And my last question: The audio art is quite glaring at the HT, what would come, pricely close to the audio art, for an alternative to the tweeters?! Someone’s idea? Thanks for reading, and I am happy about criticism and suggestions, BEFORE I have built everything in!

Hi guys! I have an Audi 80 B4 with doorboards. In the doors are 16 Morel Pulse 6.5 built. The tweeters are on the A-pillar. I still have my 10 CO 100 Plus of audio system installed in the amature board which still run on the radio. Unfortunately they distort at higher volume. I got a bridge 45.2x. And now to my question. The bridge have plug-in modules to separate. At how much Hertz I have to separate the then on the amature board. because they because of the missing membrane surface I don’t think you can play down to 80 Hertz!

Hi, I’m just wondering if the hardness of a subwoofer membrane can say anything about the sub. Have just played with a 30’s Lightning Audio bass, I noticed that the membrane is extremely hard. You can barely move it a millimeter, and we have pressed it pretty hard. (The sub is anyway in the bucket, which has ripped tens.) Does the wide stand of the membrane say anything about the sound, or about how much power it needs? Could I imagine now that it needs more glue? and that it sounds much more controlled, through the lower stroke. The krase opposite example are my intertechnique kickers, which are so soft, since the membrane moves already clearly, if cih only blows

Hello forum, does it make sense to replace the original speakers in the front doors with a budget of roughly 100 euros? Or would new LS not be a big upgrade for this money? I only have speakers in the front doors (low-tones in the door itself and tweeters in the mirror triangle) in the car and don’t find them absolutely catastrophic now, but maybe you could get a little bit more room sound, clarity and possibly a little bass with new LS? And if yes, which could i I have already achieved a certain gain in sound quality by changing the radio (from RCD 300 to M.I.C. AV8V7 Lite). And a question of understanding afterwards: If there is a woofer in the door and in the mirror triangle of the tweeter, can only a pure woofer in the door, or should (possibly?) also a Coax-LS be installed, so that one would have a woofer and 2 tweeter in the result, or would the mumpitz, overkill, or anyway not be noticeable due to the pla I’m sorry for the probably stupid question, but I’ve got a little bit of a clue about the matter… Thanks and greetings, mad