Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

Tach, resp. tomorrow… I’m about to make my Twingo a little more or less handsome in the next few months. After the cabling and the temporary installation of the sub and the power stage of last WE actually worked well I wanted to make a double floor for the trunk this weekend. Meaning of the thing would be : – Put the power stage nice (but this will only stay in there for a few months, so the whole thing should be as variable as possible. ) – Hide cables – Set bass n (I bought a finished Hertz, and now a recess should be there so that the sub is good and can not slip. (screw, etc. does not come into question *g* and the current solution of nem Expander is effective but not too beautiful )… – Reserve wheel should be achievable, or within 15 minutes etc. (Maybe you can also build this so that the floor can be completely removed ?) Ok to accommodate the final stage is the easiest exercise, how s he is fixed I still have to think about… For the sub I had thought to make a cut-out of the size of the bottom of the sub, so that it is then standing on the ground and so fixed… Regarding the cable I thought of making slots for chinch, electricity, mass and remote (somewhat forgotten? ) so that you could really take the bottom out and only have to plug the cables off from the outside… Now I wanted to ask you how best to realize something like this , and whether you have tips for carrying out material (which wood is suitable and also withstands the stresses ) and the like. – Can you simply step ceiling and floor with 4 distance blocks from each other or should this be done in the form of a frame ? – Can you do all this in such a way that the construction is easily removable (from the dimensions ) and the fixation e.g. by 1-4 angles which are screwed into the ground or so similar . How did you have your thing n fixed ? – Must be thought of ventilation, or is it usually enough for the final stage when the whole is not “airtight” ? Would you like a few tips from people who have already done this, maybe there is also n link to a guide for similar projects ? For that there are also photos *g* Before thank you for your help mfg. Kep

Servus people … Last night I installed a “plant” with my friend of mine … Since she has no money and also net wanted to spend a lot I installed my old BOA 300SW subwoofer with an old Concord CA50.2 in her Renault Clio (Bj.95). Front system gave a 10cm Coax of MegaKick. Incusive cables, subwoofer soft, fuse and plug-in small stuff I installed it for 125€ … The front system sounds bad for the money net … the mounting places are in the car But the woofer makes a lot more levels, pressure and sounds even better than I did at that time *heul*. How can that be? Is the same power amplifier, the same woofer in the same housing, the same 10mm2 cable, even the same fuse holder The only thing that came to this is the active subwoofer soft, because you don’t have an extra sub-out in contrast to me. Can it be that the turnout is the signal even more that the power amplifier can bring so much more? It just has a simple sub-out. s Kennwood Radio for 99€ out of MediaMarkt and I have the JVC KD SX 998R … Wouldn’t it be nice if someone had an explanation … or is that because my golf from the interior is bigger? Greeting

Good morning together, it was time again, as it looks like, today night in the room Fürth Nord a criminal group went around and many cars have broken open and the radios were loud! I had always stayed spared, but now also caught me… come tomorrow to the car, want to lock up the suitcase room and put my backpack in for the work and look through the rear window, see since my HU is not there anymore … go around the car and there have the vollar**** ** my disc is smashed… my HU has been finely removed from the inside room… not torn out. They have left the remote control even the service rope, which was in the handcuff compartment they have taken out of the protective box and packed… the protective box they have put back in the glove compartment and closed the compartment again! I always leave the glove compartment open, because if they are already in the car, they might have broken up! then I am completely n I had to go into the suitcase room and then I was lucky in the unlucky the xetecs, woofer, exide batt, cap and anything else in there they didn’t want at all… the police was there also shortly after the call, when they were finished with me they were still in the TIEFGARAGE in which I parked and found several more cars that had broken open! Unfortunately goddes also broke the car from my sister… everything just like with me.. disk smashed, inside wasted… the service rope also taken out of the protection box and the steering wheel control they left there! They were apparently only out on all HUs. Should any of you find at the auction house one of the following radios… which are offered self-same, please report to me briefly. My HU was a “Clarion DXZ 948 MP” of my heaviest her HU was my old “Pioneer DEH P77 MP” should you find offers to the radios, would be the following important. For both I have the Original packaging lies at home as well as all the papers on the equipment and very important have the bills for it. So if the HU are offered without the papers etz. please tell me then I follow the matter. Greeting Eddie

With me, the bass is still set out for a short time at higher levels (2-3 sec.) and goes on again. If I don’t turn more quietly, it always goes on like this. It’s not at the ground point and there is no short circuit. I have a different “theory”. Can it be that my original battery (it’s sitting in the trunk but it’s not the truth) is simply too slow? Because with long-drawn basses I can turn as loud as I want, nothing happens. Bass test songs or even sine tones I can turn so loud until the whole car snaps and vibrates. With songs like Flat Beat or with Prodigy my whole body vibrates. But with fast basses (as example e.g. Friends of Scooter) the power amplifier runs out quite early. Therefore, I think that the original battery may give off enough power (at least so much that the power amplifier does not run out), but that is not fast enough with fast basses. my bass section looks like this: Eton 5402 2 x Earthquake DBX-12DR Silvercap sufficiently dimensioned cables I already have a Maxxima at home, but I haven’t got to install it yet… Diddy

Hallöle !!! I have already written in here several times and am also quite sure what I will do now. Now I would like to drive on Friday to “my dealer” and to me cable, insulation mats and an audio system RX 165 Pro. Question: How many mats and how many cables do you need there so with a Golf 3? The power stage should go back into the trunk, the speakers once into the door and up first into the amature board. With the insulation mats I have now also seen which ones with aluminium beschi 2 more questions: Do you have another Alpine 3525 with 2 x 60 W RMS (4 Ohm), does this first reach out for the system or do you damage it as you have heard so often due to too little performance? In the convertible of the golf the recording is better constructed than in the small car, seehttp://adi.world4free.de/fidi/auto/halter/PB100031.JPG you mean this bracket is enough if you create a resonance room behind it with mats? The door still b I’m an absolute Newbie, so maybe one or the other strange question. Oh yes, and my radio (Becker 7945) doesn’t have a chinch output but the ISO connector, which is the output for a power amplifier, you get such plugs already done with cables? Until then, bye Martin

Hello! In my Golf IV (two-door) I only have the factory (2oW) speakers in the front doors. Now I would like to replace them with better ones (50W), plus two more rear ones (currently only glare available). Since I have little idea in this area I would like to let experts do it myself. So that I have a clue: What is a fair (normal) price for such work?: replace front speakers, rear ones which, cabling Thanks in advance, mf g aedificans

Servus you! As my topic says: What to do against fear? I’m always afraid that my subwoofer (Hertz ES300D) will give up the mind, because I can’t estimate how resilient it is at all. This is especially because I can strain it as I want it to, and it just doesn’t overdrive it… I’ve got it hanging on a SinusLive XT4500 with 2×250 watts, that’s exactly the 500 watts the Hertz can handle… How can I handle that now? I can handle the load capacity gre Just don’t guess at all… Greetings, Toby

Hi guys. I wanted to ask what you can recommend for Bassreflex subwoofers. I mainly listen to techno. But I also have to have rock on it. I have a final stage with 240W RMS The whole thing is within the scope of about 150€. Less is also not bad. I like to make the case myself. MFG Tobi

Hiho….I have a question….I used to install an old MP3 radio from roadstar (yes, how gruesome I know…) until I saved enough for a new sweetheart…..but when I started to give gas, I had funny buzzing (or whistling), which gets louder with increasing speed….what could it be? it never had before with the radio….as soon as you step into the coupling it disappears….as soon as I turn off the radio… So it’s definitely coming out of the boxes…but… WHY??? does that have something to do with the in-vehicle voltage or something? hope someone can help me….

A little story where at the end the question arises buddy or crook??? Names are invented freely, only the story corresponds to the truth. Let’s call the dealer Andreas, the buyer we call Carsten. Carsten buys various car-hifi articles from Andreas over months. Everything goes well, the two understand each other well and both consider themselves as buddies Andreas admits Carsten also discounts on his orders!!! Then Carsten orders several high-quality C ladders, which are delivered promptly by Andreas. Unfortunately, after the installation, a cable probably has a defective one. Carsten returns the cable with the please for exchange. Four weeks pass without what happens since Andreas the cable has not sent back to the manufacturer. Carsten orders from Andreas still artificial leather and glue. In addition, Carsten (who has very little time) asks Andreas what it would cost if he incorporated the tweeters into the A-pillar. And reas makes an offer among buddies in the amount of 130,- without invoice!!! Enquiries from Carsten at various dealers result in an average price of 90,- with warranty and invoice. Meanwhile 7 weeks have passed and Carsten slowly gets angry because of the cable, leather and glue. Andreas answers that he would also be angry at the manufacturer. He doesn’t have any leather yet, only the glue could already have Carsten. Carsten answers: Why are you mad at the herst eller? The cable was around with you for the first four weeks before you sent it to the manufacturer. And as a dealer he would probably have to learn a lot about it. I don’t have to say that, buy your stuff where else answered Andreas. Carsten then called the manufacturer of the cable to explain the location to him…….and two days later the cable was from the manufacturer. Carsten did the same with the manufacturer of the leather and glue, even here everything was there after two days. for this?????? Friend or crook??? Does this dealer really not have to learn anything about it??? Greeting Mica