Category: Car Audio & Navigation Forum

The topic has been discussed before and I know there are different opinions about capacitors that buffer the current in front of the head unit… I don’t want to discuss that now either. I just have a rather general question on the subject, and that’s in the data sheet of a capacitor that I think would be suitable for this application: ESR@100Hz: 16 mOhm… Isn’t that a bit high, or would the ESR be much lower at DC voltage? That’s it: [URL=http:// www.reichelt.de/?ARTIKEL=BE 100.000/16]BE 100.000/16[/URL] Another thing: The capacitor goes up to 16 volts, now my question: Is that too little for use in the car or are 16 volts sufficient? Many of the big PowerCaps have 21 volts or something… is that necessary? Thanks for all the answers. merendo

Hello, I just took 3 hours and drove with a friend to two dealers. To my buddy : He wants one or two subs, which only makes noise, and the magnet looks nice. Sound doesn’t matter to him. The main thing is to look nice. To me : I’m still looking for a front system, sound is important to me. 1. Dealer : My buddy thought about subs of audio track. The guy said they don’t have something that they don’t want to recommend to their customers. When asked what the “bad” audio track is, he didn’t know the answer and then recommended my buddy a sub from Spectron. I asked him for the Andrian Audio 130. I only heard good about it so far, especially tonal it should be recommended. He immediately replied that I would probably often be in forums and therefore have the recommendation. In his opinion, Anselm himself would have had an influence on it, but it would always be recommended. But he would have something to do with it. As a result, he suggested to me the ECP25XT3 emphaser (239 €) and the Radical Audio RA13.2 (339 €). I couldn’t listen to both of them, and the question whether he had heard the AA 130 before, he skilfully blocked off. (I would have been interested in it anyway). By the way, an Audison Vr 209 should serve as a stage. Since I prefer to have it installed, I also asked about it. He said installation 250 € + 200 € insulation. When we were out there again, we are to no other dealer. But there I asked only for the installation. This told me, installation 150 € + 50 € ?? insulation. He meant that it would be enough at Peuegto 106 to only dam behind the TMT’s. That’s not right or ?? What should I think of these offers ?? V.a. interests me what you say about the thing with the Fs ? My problem is that I really have no way to hear the system before, so must buy more or less blindly. Greeting Chiro

Hi, a friend of mine will soon have a birthday and I want to build a nice 16er system into his Corsa… It’s important to me that the sound is very good above all!! Level it should deliver enough, even in the bass, because it will run without sub at first… But don’t go soo deep in the bass, rather in the kick/upper bass The system first comes to its alpine, later to a small bridge or something… It should play in the high tone restrained and very warm, but still dissolving. the bass is very tight and top bass-oriented Mostly Goa/Psytrance will run…. Price range is 130-max 150€…. Mfg Olaf

Hi together, I haven’t had a real sound in the car until recently. Then I got a small blue point power amplifier (with ridiculous 4x 30 watts) and 2 loudspeakers (helix hxs 169, 100 watts) for the rear shelf “collected together” in the basement etc.. Must say that the speakers release quite a lot of pressure, at least much better than just the original sound.. But now I want to start investing a little (I’m a poor high school graduate) and thought of a power amplifier for max. 150 € .. What can you recommend to me? Since I want to connect a bass box later it should already be 4 channels .. What can you recommend to me? I know that the 150€ are quite little, but I can’t spare any more at the moment..

Hello, everything is going wrong… I have a BPKiste with the following inner mass bxhxt with 19mm MDF: Closed 37,8*17*54,2 Open without the board above the woofer: 37,8*10*54,2 The board above the woofer represents the reflex tube, in space this is the only construction possibility. If the woofer had enough space on the floor with ~2cm, and above all if the woofer had enough space on the top. If it were to swing out really far, one would have between the sicke and the reflex board 2-3cm square. The r.brett is 38cm long and over covers the woofer completely. The woofer is an audio track AW1200N. The other possibility would be if the R.brett is only 12cm long, the Woofer kante does not reach, and the closed chamber would have a height of 19cm, so that of course the open chamber only 8cm Ask for quick help the thing is in construction and should be siliconed today. Mfg Gaya

hi people, you certainly can’t hear it anymore, or read it, but I have a problem which makes me crazy and maybe I just need some more gunshots… it’s about lima whistles, I’ve read all the last threads, but none of them fits my problem… and that’s what I have the lima whistle on the driver’s side in the tweeter, wiring: o 50mm2 + on the driver’s side, ls cable to the frontsys. also on the b. side. o cinch is originally located on the f ahrerseite o masse, 50mm2 goes to carouse current and cinch does not come together now it is so that whistles are quite quiet and don’t bother me any more, but I drive over cobblestones or similar, I hear a scratch and roar and the whistle becomes louder… then it can happen it scratchs again and the whistle becomes quieter again… another side effect is that when loud whistles start to scratch the ls from the fs and not bring the basses right over, also the ht starts scratching sounds like I’ve put a wobble contact somewhere but the question is where???? I’ve already tried the following: o wired wire behind the radio ordered o new chinch line in air line from radio to amp, also here the same probb. appears…the cinch line is therefore nowhere connected with the current. I also read that you should re-place the radio wiring directly, is that really necessary??? how did you get that? and where could this wackler come from? ? PS: the whistle comes only on the left side thanks already for reading and sry for the many text

Tach too! I noticed that most of the innovations that appeal to the customers are implemented first by the cheap manufacturers. Especially with the Headunits: Example: – MP3 CD radios were the first of cheap manufacturers on the market at that time. I still remember the run on the Medion parts in the Aldi… (Yes, I also had one!) – USB port at the Headunit… So far only with cheap manufacturers – MP3 DVD I only saw with a Spectron DVD at the current ACR-Prospect Receiver can discover, which costs 179 €, next to JVC, Kenwood, Zenec and Rodek, which are almost all a lot more expensive, but can not read MP3s of DVD… Now the question for you: What is this about? Why can’t the big ones keep up? Would really interest me! Looking forward to opinions! Greetings, E.T.chen

hi, have a problem from the home audio area but maybe there is one or the other in the caraudio that has already done something like that. I made boxes from MDF and would like to paint them now. if I spray the MDF directly with a primer it sucks up full and the surface becomes rough like 40’s sandpaper – what can you do against it? there are special varnishes that prevent such a thing? was already with various screamers but no one could help me… thanks in advance markus

Yes hello, wasn’t here for quite a long time.. So I’m just looking for a car radio, so maximum money limit is 200 Euros, joa, mp3 should be capable, and if possible for the money with changer, but if there’s nothing clever, just without a winder. I’ve just looked at a few of jvc, they also like to look halfway from where I don’t buy a radio look. Nuja, I hope you can help me.. Dennis