Category: Car sales and vehicle evaluation forum

Hello together, after more than 30 years it is time: my brother will separate himself from his beloved Galant EXE (1.8L, 90 HP). First registration was in 1990, bought as a demonstration car. Since then always in his possession. Has almost 400,000 km on the clock and did not cause any significant problems except for the necessary wear repairs. The biggest problem with the engine is that when the battery was disconnected and thus the control unit became powerless, he had always taken quite a long time until he again around ran, better said, until he didn’t go out again and again, when you kicked the clutch and he went into the idle. Jo, and a dent at the back of the bumper, Parkrempler. Now the TÜV has refused the blessing (Rost at Schwellern), an elaborate renovation would be beyond any economic reason. So, now it is in the garage and the question is how to best proceed with the sale. Does this model have any (if at all certainly only very small) lover market? If yes: w ie would be a realistic price idea? Or should one look in the face of the hard reality and be happy when someone picks up the car “for Umme” if necessary and you save yourself the scrapping costs? Thanks already???

Hello together, I am currently wondering on which way I sell my Golf 6, 1,6 TDI (team) best. Private or dealer? Especially with regard to the question whether it is worth renewing the TÜV, which would be due in October. Time pressure for the sale does not exist. Here a few infos: – Bj 2010 (a previous owner) – 286,000 km – switch – 5-door – sliding roof – self steering parking system – seat heating – rain sensor – cruiser – car. Light – complete braking system in front of 1 month renewed – service always according to plan defect: – climate condensator – vehicle jerks from time to time (2 of 10 rides) in the speed range around the 1,400. Has not been checked, but after research I found out that this could be the injectors – electr. Window lifter for the passenger side on the driver side can only go up, but not down – wobble contact license plate lighting back – CD compartment does not pull anything – smaller stone strokes and Scratches Otherwise, the car drives great and has always accompanied me reliably for 10 years and except for wear parts was never a big damage. Since I don’t know very well about cars, I would be very grateful about your opinions, tips or even an approximate price frame (comparison with Mobile was made).

Hello, I am about to decide to lease an Astra Electric Sports Tourer 115 kW GS (daily registration) (900€ down payment, approx. 300€ monthly rate, 48 months period, 15,000km) and I am not sure if I should make this exchange with my current Gold 7 limousine diesel (150hp, 128,000 km mileage, year of construction 2013). Basically I would like to switch to a family-friendly e-car. However, I ask myself the following questions: Parallel to the Golf 7 we still own a Gol f 7 Variant (year 18, 78.000km, petrol) which is mainly driven. The diesel is only used for working distance of approx. 10km (one way), so that it is not moving enough. With the diesel the TÜV is on this year and probably a fast brake change. Since the diesel is little driving and older, we consider replacing it. It allegedly has a residual value of 900€. In a private sale it is possible to achieve a little more profit. My questions: Is this the exchange economic or would it make more sense to drive the gold to “end”? The gasoline truck would be enough as a family car. My children are still quite small. Although they are neat, but still something can happen at a car. How “hard are leasing companies after 48 months in return? I thank you very much for the help. I certainly forgot information. Please ask for VG.

Good day together, I am currently selling my car privately and I found a buyer yesterday who wants to buy the car. Now I have a funny gut feeling, which may not be necessary, due to lack of knowledge. The following procedure and questions, which make me unsure. The buyer is from Poland. He has already sent me an ID card. I want to log off the car before I do this. I asked him to transfer 500€ in advance. I have to send him my IBAN and my name. He orders the transcription marks and sends them to my address. The remaining amount is paid in cash and paid in the same day together with the buyer at the bank. Now he needs a picture of the vehicle letter to order the signs after the deregistration. Is this uncertain to send such documents to someone else? Is there a pure consideration of the process here or should something better happen here? Bitt e let me know if there are any questions about the situation. Thank you in advance for the possible support!

Hello together, since I am currently looking for a new vehicle, I would like to know if there are other platforms besides the well-known “search engines” such as Mobile.de or Autoscout, where I can create a search inserat myself, and then get offers from car dealerships. Background for this is that I always have the possibility to find the offers of the car dealers with the mentioned portals or also with other websites not mentioned here, but these not my For new cars there is already the one or other portal, where you can configure the vehicle and then get corresponding offers, but I would love a universal site, where you will be offered both new and used cars in the best case for your search. In the hope that someone out there knows such a site (if any) I hope for a corresponding feedback from the Azu.

Hi, have inherited a car (value by 25k€ ), which I now want to sell privately. How does this usually work today? If I bought private cars, they were always cheaper, and strictly speaking, cash shops over 10k€ are no longer allowed, right? How do you do that to keep the risk for both parties low? Are there any meshes I have to pay attention to? Give car and letter, and then hope that the money comes, doesn’t feel ideal?

Hello, as already in the purchase consultation topic I would like to buy a new vehicle soon. The old one then has to go. The vehicle that I want to sell is a Hyundai i30 GD: – First registration 11/2012 – Power 73kw – 99 HP – Motor 1.4 Suction cup – km- Stand 135000, or soon 136000 -> is still moving – Equipment line, would have to be classic, only air conditioning otherwise actually nothing more – LED exhaust retrofitted with Phillips Ultinon H7 LED (if’ s to the thing does) – damage: fender right approx. 10cm kerb scratch – trunk, scratches by loading – vehicle colour: white – disc tinting rear (side, rear), subsequently carried out – foling, roof, mirror, front bumper, matt black, – summer tire aluminum on 17 inches – winter steel on 15 inches – no original Hyundai radio, BT radio (noname) retrofitted. – check booklet meticulously maintained. – HU/AU without problems passed 12/23, can also be made new by me if required we rden fast to be sold, or payment at the dealer does not have to be, can also easily get by a few weeks or up to months without a car (only with 2nd car).

Hello, I signed a purchase contract for the sale of my car 5 days ago. I did not accept a deposit and the car is not registered on me but on my mother, I told the buyer about the sales authorization I received from her, but did not give it to him. Yesterday I bought a new car and, since I thought I could withdraw from the 1st contract, signed a new purchase contract in which I sold my old car. I I got in touch with the dealer of the 1st purchase contract and wanted to ask him to withdraw from the contract, but he said that he was not ready to do so. So I talked to the dealer of the 2nd purchase contract and explained my situation to him, who in turn said that, since I am a private seller and did not accept a down payment, that car also does not have to sell to the 1st buyer. Is that true? And if so, any idea, as I might get out of there after all Come?

Hello together, I hope you can give me a little advice. The following situation: We bought a car as an accident and wanted to repair it to drive it ourselves. Since for reasons of time and change of plan nothing became of it at the end, we decided to sell it instead. My parents then sold the car, and in the contract also noted that it was a vehicle with an accident and it is sold to it condition as it is. the buyer lives nearby and we got along well we offered him to call us also once if he needs advice during the further repair. He also made use of this, twice I was with him because he needed help with something. Now, after two months, he would like to return the car after all, I would not have told him everything the car had to do with damage (I actually told him that I did not know what to do there) and dro I have no idea what to do now, especially because the money from the purchase is now also spent and I make Kirre myself, that with the nice gesture I probably only created problems myself in hindsight.

Hello dear forum, have a Tiguan 5N 1.4TSI from 2013. Extraordinary condition is according to age and relatively good. Inwardly, however, the vehicle is not suitable for driving. Wave for the pistons is damaged and an engine overhaul or change is necessary. Now I have put the vehicle online and many export dealers have registered. Some wanted to negotiate but pay directly 600€. Well, I have set the vehicle simply times 2000€ more expensive than the estimate ng my colleague, he said similar vehicles with working engines go away around the 8-9k, less the engine damage and possibly problems we have estimated the Tiguan at 4000€. Different portals (also for broken vehicles) offered 24.5k. Sorry but I don’t look through there anymore, clearly the export dealers will want to trade down by thousands on arrival and have possibly lower costs but that can’t be right or? Seems to me as if they want to lure. Would like to sell the vehicle at the best possible price. Since this should also be the deposit for the next one this has to happen quite soon. Thanks already for your feedback!