Category: Car Audio Installation Forum

HI! A friend of mine has a 2 channel amplifier and a BP box with 2 Woofer in it ( 2x25er). Now we have connected it as follows. Stärker plus to Woofer 1 plus unmd from there further to the Woofer 2 plus. Amplifier minus to Woofer 1 minus and from there further to the Woofer 2 minus. Problem: Bass sounds really tinkering. Let’s just close a Woofer on , it plays wonders bar. Or you have to go from Amplifier to Woofer 1 plus Woofer 1 minus to Woofer 2 plus Woofer 2 minus back to the amplifier! Thanks to Tips!

Hello, have a small problem, or a question. No old Polo 86c has obviously (from work) the V. & h. right / v. & h. left LS each in row switched. e.g. blue goes from “Radio” to v.l. + , from there as blue/yellow to hi. on +, from there as brown/schw. – back to “Radio”. Now I am the type screwdriver who prefers 3 ZKD`s than 1 radio installation But I bought myself a radio extra to the car 6 years ago (with 4 LS connections) and wants to have it finally (half way right) inside. I could spare myself any amount of eclipsive fummelei under the A-Brett if I provide every LS with + (with existing cables possible), the 4 LS then the – in mass and the 4 radio outputs – also on mass. Is no mad sound system, AEG 4 x 100 W and the series – LS by Pioneer the same dimension can put in the intended accessories.

Hello together I hope I’m right here. So to my problem or question, I drive 2 cars a BMW E90 and as a second car a Peugeot 206. If I compare the system so clearly is the one of the BMW much better than the one of the Peugeot. My question what can I do without spending a lot of money now, but still to get a better sound and bass from the Peugeot. So I actually only want to exchange the boxes in front and back, but no boxes on the shelf or bass in the trunk still want to be able to use the trunk completely. There are some good boxes and tweeters that bring a nice sound and bass, but not the hard bass like a soubwooofer. I say that the sound and bass halfway to the system of my BMW is certainly difficult to use but think feasible. At the time are just the original boxes in there that don’t really have the best sound and radio I have one of JVC in it that should be used further. Hope someone can help me and tips should not give themselves a bit of building.

Hello, I have now ventured to the system in the car. I have now insulated the front doors with alubutyl, insulation fleece and Brax insulation paste. Alubutyl on the outer sheet and the inner sheet of the door, insulation fleece over it and the damper on the lining from the inside. My system still sounds bad. Power amplifier is a Sony Xplo XM 460 GTX with 600 watts. Subwoofer is a Rodex with 250 watts. The guess I have that it is on the front system of the previous owner. It has installed: low-middle sounder: Eton Pow 160 tweeter: RAINBOW Experience EL-T19 crossover: Axton CAC 2.6 The front system is connected to the final stage, which I set as well as I did. Can it lie on the rolled-up system? I’m really guessless and quite depressive because that was so much work at dawn. 🙁 It doesn’t sound better and then break the tweeter even at high volume. So the few will be very quick.

A nice Sunday for all of you And I have the problem, as already described in the title, that switches my mac-audio power stage to protect in warm weather and also gets quite hot. From this I now simply connect with the heat protection circuit. But the problem exists only since last week. I only changed the power stage so that the power stage is no longer in the case room but is mounted on the rear seat and I set the radio differently, (Before amplifier from SW, lpf on 80hz) because the power amplifier is probably not in a position to separate the frequency properly and my woofer has always loaded with the full pallet of frequencies. The radio setting also fell into my hands out of chance because I wondered why on the preamplifier output one time rear and once SW stood For this I put my cables still properly and let them disappear. and gets so warm, I went through the typical tips again. So mass point is laid, fuses are looked through, checkers are cleaned and examined for corrosion. But it was all right. :/ It can’t be on the cables because I just laid them out of the packaging. I got a multimeter and measured at the battery and at the power stage and the following came out of dabai: -empty voltage on battery like stage motor off: 12.5V motor on: 14V +- 0,3V -in operation without signal motor off: 12,5V motor on: 14V + – 0,3V the same with signal in normal operation with break-ins of max 0,2V -under full load after approx. 30 min. Engine on one break down to 11,78V max 12.2v!!!! -remote constant at almost 12V + cable goes along the driver’s side, minus goes to the screw of the belt buckle under the rear seat. Chinch and remote goes along the passenger side, but 2 separate cables. the woofer is always on ch1u. Ch2 gebr ückt und jeweil aud ch3 u.ch4. What could this have to do with am slow really stunned :/ or is the level just so miserable that it constantly overheats itself? Or does it solve it so that I have to change the wedgerimen times and thus the lima doesn’t come after it? Already many thanks for helpful answers more parts stand in the signature.

Hello, I installed new speakers in the front of my Opel Corsa C (Bj 2001) today (JVV). When I then tested the speakers during a ride (radio loud) the speakers turned off from the same and after a shorter time they went again. This happened a few times until they didn’t turn on at all. I then switched off the radio and switched on again and then they went again for a short time. My subwoofer remained however all the time. I connected the loudspeakers normally to the radio, used the existing cables quite simply. In the back I still used the Orginale Lautaprecher which however always went out. However, I don’t know why this happened. Have a Pioneer Radio (4x50Watt). Who could help me. Thanks in advance!

Hello, in my current vehicle I have installed my Active Pyle Subwoofer again. Unfortunately, for this sub the music source for the rear speakers is used because the original Radio/Navi has no specific output. Now I am looking for a possibility to switch off this subwoofer if necessary also during the ride. Just if you want to listen to radio or messages it can be quite casual with the bass in the background. My previous ideas were either to move a switch from the trunk forward to interrupt the voltage or to use a Cinch switch from the Hi-Fi department which then switches between Cinch from the Sub and Nix and thus interrupts the sound transmission. (though this was thought of at http://www.conrad.de/…/2-port-Cinch-Audio-Switch-SpeaKa-AC1-Black) Of course, now with the topic Cinch switch so thoughts come to me because of noise from mobile phone or other sources due to perhaps bad shielding. Of course I could also repeatedly activate the rotary controller of the amplifier but the fine setting after it is really annoying (unless one can solve the volume switch here anyway cheaply) but if someone asks for the greetings

Gude, I have the following equipment (I know is not the best, but it’s enough for me): Sony MEX BT 3700 U Black Magic Amp SX 7002 Plus nail new fuse of Hama and fuse holder from ATU. 28cm2 cables The boxes do less to make a contribution to solving the problem. I have connected everything as usual today, had the equipment also in my old car, fuse in front of the battery, power cable to B+, remote to the radio, body to blank and ground to it. I got ignition on, radio in, power stage does not work. I thought maybe the remote cable is through or the mass point is Knortz. I have an Opel Omega B and have installed the cable to a screw behind the accident kit, where is near the tank cover, but I’m not sure whether this is a useful contact point. Power cable is connected to remote, end stage is not working again. Then I have fun to have already connected the power cable to B+ and remote. Now that is unexplained by me, but it’s an improbly light and protection too. I have used the same thing.

Hey guys. I’m a little confused right now. I have my 2x2ohm subwoofer on 4 ohms. Power amplifier is an audio system xion 280.2. If I now connect the brittle subwoofer to the brittle power amplifier, does it see the 4 ohms or only 2 ohms? I hope you understand what I mean by

Moin people, in my Opel Vectra I wanted to install a subwoofer with power stage and wanted to ask if a cable with a cross-section of 6mm2 is sufficient as a plus line? Power stage: http://www.amazon.de/…/B000UL2Q2Y Subwoofer: http://www.amazon.de/…/B000UL2HMS Cable: www.reichelt.de/index.html?… At the power stage I also only connected the subwoofer, the speakers I still have directly on the radio. mfg