Category: Motorroller Forum

It is about the model 2015, EZ at the beginning of 2016, 10,000 Km. According to the provider, it is in good condition with all maintenance. What do you think?

Hi, I bought me a Yamaha Cygnus 125 bj 2007 3 days ago, checkbook maintained only 7500km. Lief impeccable 80km (overpass), there she also jumped great, demonstration, test drive etc. Seller said still battery is flat, he had it charged and started, interstops etc. was no problem at the home ride. Yesterday I wanted to turn a small round, battery was dead no advertisement, got it then with the kickstarter for my first kick attempts, quite easy and fast Today I wanted to kick it again, didn’t go any more. I removed the battery and kicked it again without a battery, went on… (know that from my old 80s and there should be no damage…) Battery went in again, nothing more. Battery again charged and see even in the Youtube video (didn’t know how to help me than to upload it there ) https://youtu.be/wgcmZ8RQU-o What can it be, starter in ***? For help mega thankable…. Sam

A well-known had just brought me his scooter with statement he just jumped out for a short time and then no more. He was put off in the fall and there was everything in order, he wanted to get a sign tomorrow and now he no longer goes, big owl. Since I am not yet switched on summer time I thought about what he is doing. Ignition on and tank almost empty, candle out and moist, so came the idea. Underpressure and petrol hose off, one glass taken and the suction emann played,result see picture. That comes from when he is not fully fueled when for winter he is sent in sleep and not reasonably covered if no real parking space available. Half hour work and he may get his sign tomorrow. Addendum: those who can’t do anything with the picture,the bottom is water and above gasoline.

Hello dear community, the search function and Google did not provide me with the desired answer. Problem: When I operate the brake and therefore the brake light, the dipped light weakens visibly. Same problem occurs when flashing. On the highway “dimmes” the dipped light suddenly felt twice as bright on normal brightness when one (according to Tacho) has reached beyond the 95km/h (Vmax. according to Tacho 125km/h). n, the dipped-beam at 80-90km/h loses felt 50% of intensity. In the city you have the feeling, if you drive longer distances without braking, the dipped-beam gradually becomes brighter – until you slow down and attenuate it again.Condition: The rectifier or voltage converter is already new, the exchange did not result in any improvement. The correct bulbs are also installed, however, by Osram. The battery voltage before the start of the engine is about 12.0 – 12, according to the speedometer indicator, 3V. I am a layman – as far as electricity is concerned – and I have no way of taking any measurements. Do you have any idea what it might be about? Otherwise, I have to get out of here and change the battery and the alternator and finally commission the workshop. Where is the alternator sitting and how exactly do you change it? I don’t have two left hands, do a lot myself, e.g. oil change, exhaust exchange, vario weights etc. Thank you very much!

Hello, for a moment to me.. I just registered and don’t know myself this way yet.. And this is about my Rex RS 500.. and it was broken and had to repair it. It was due to the Variomatics. I expanded the old one and it was totally in A…. and since I didn’t know what weights I needed, I looked how much gram the old ones had .. I chose the best one and they had 8 gram (depleted) so I think the 8.5 gram were new.. But since I was there.. always be careful and I bought the scooter used, I turned around again on the internet and saw what I need for vario rolls for my REX. Standart 5.5 gram … so completely new Variomatik bought. 16 Euro. built in and see here, the scooter runs again. Different, but better as before.. due to the difference of the Vario weights…. nevertheless when driving off he needs a bit when I have 10 km/h on it he gives real fabric and accelerates a uch still mountain up.. and I can still remember how he is still open with the old weights, he mountain has become more and more slow and laboriously dragged up. he pulled away better and ran great on the straight but as soon as a mountain came, he had to make a real effort.. so my question .. should I leave the weights so or go a little higher that he also comes away a little faster from the stand but nevertheless speeded up at the mountain !? Otherwise I am still mountain up.. very satisfied! Lg.. Florian

Hello, I currently have a Vespa Primavera that I bought two years ago. But I have been dreaming about a Vespa older model for a long time. E.g. a Vespa Pk 50 XL. Or this scooter than 80s. But I am unsure about the repair costs. I don’t know about the scooters from repair and would have to have them repaired in the workshop. Is that more expensive than a newer Vespa? And does every workshop that also offers Vespa scooters t? Thank you for your answers. Vespa

Hello *, I have the problem that the oil runs through the oil pump in my stand. For what exactly is the rope pull at the oil pump? The flow rate is normally controlled at the speed, can it be that the rope pull is practically just a kind of valve in the stand the oil supply stops? What could the problem still be? There is no vacuum valve. Thank you for your information! (No I don’t want to convert to mixture… )

Good morning! I’ve been riding a Kymco Like 2T since last summer (bj. 17, took it over with 600km mileage and absolutely as good as new). I’m very satisfied with the scooter in principle. However, I would have a question in terms of consumption to rule out any defect: With 4 liters on 100km I’m always, often also at 4.5 to 4.7 liters. Is that okay? Of course I usually drive full throttle (= Tacho 50). I’m aware that a two-stroke motor tends to be something. The scooter already has two inspections behind it (current speedometer about 3200km) and otherwise runs wonderfully, i.e. it always starts quickly, doesn’t go out, turns up without a dropout etc. I am happy about feedback! Best regards and a good start a week! commodoregs

Hello together, I want to get a scooter (125 ccm) and drive also in winter. Now many scooters have no kick starter anymore (for new vehicles probably practically extinct) My work path is only 3 km; will the battery be charged again enough? I do not want to constantly expand the battery and have to hang on the charger. Should I limit myself to scooters with kick starter? Then I would have another question (I hope several questions per topic violates not against a forum rule; I found nothing to do with it…) Newer scooters often have a combined-braking system (do I certainly not need to explain here) What does it look like on a smooth surface? I brake in such a case (e.g. on a thin layer of snow) almost exclusively with the rear wheel brake if possible, because if the rear wheel blocks, it slips away, but I am not right on my nose. If now the CBS is always slowed down at the front, I would have Have you had any experience there? Greetings Robert

I’m thinking about buying either the SH 125 or SH 150. It’s supposed to be an economic purchase in order to reduce my travel costs.In order to be able to drive short motorway stages more relaxed, I prefer the SH 150 something. Now I have thoughts about the resale value of the SH 150. Due to the requirement of a motorcycle driver’s license, I suspect that the market for the scooter on the used market is very low and that this has a negative impact on the value stability. ngen or something like a value forecast? I know it’s about smaller sums, but if I have a few hundred € more value loss in the 150s than in the 125s, I would rather tend to the latter.