Category: Motorroller Forum

Hello everyone, this is my first post and I hope for your help. Was always quiet reader, from today this should change. Therefore to my first problem, in which he can certainly help me. It is about a Derbi scooter, GP1 125ccm, year 2011, 4stroker, which has only 4500 km down. Note that the vehicle had been standing for a very long time (2014) and I first had to change all liquids. In addition, the carburettor was cleaned several times until the Ki In the meantime I also got a TÜV, the exhaust gas examination went well. The spark plug image is deer brown, actually as you would like it to be. Now, however, my problem comes: when I start the engine in cold condition, my scooter also runs perfectly. It turns cleanly up to 100 KMH. After a certain warm running phase, however, I have the problem that I have to fight very hard especially when driving at the traffic light. As soon as he gets hit, he runs again perfectly. I.e. I can get him out full again without any further problems. Now, of course, it doesn’t make sense that I have to worry every time at the traffic light that the scooter doesn’t die from me. Does any of you have any idea what this could be about? I also have to note that I accidentally turned on the mixing screw when cleaning the carburettor. I have it in my hands. I tried to adjust it in a warm running state. However, since the scooter was running clean, I was satisfied with the setting. I removed the choke once and hung it to the battery. It worked and changed the needle accordingly. Therefore, I rather exclude a defective choke. The scooter was not tuned, it is in the Origina. As I said, the approach problem is not in the cold state. There I can start well and do a great job of speeding up, there are no false ignitions. After a certain runtime there are only problems when starting up, everything runs out. For your help already big thanks. Andy

Hello , take a few infos 😉 Have such a Boatian rice cooker 4 stroke 50ccm I bought without carburettor ! I built up the new and cylinder foot and head with piston everything renewed valves and everything renewed. Well ,so the box starts up and unfortunately runs only on stand gas well with a new carburettor but it was also. Nozzles I changed everything from 60-95 in 5 steps ..without success good at the 95 nozzle was probably a little heavy was bitle a lot of fuel ran up into the exhaust 😉 How do I adjust this carburetor ?? What is to be admitted ? He runs and gives me gas he scrapes off without power ….like problem I had before with another there I only had to make nozzle smaller but this does not work here. Must also say that it is a 19er carburetor with 20mm membrane / slider ..there must be a solution please for help ….mfg P.S. He jumps over E- and Kickstarter in compression has on 9.5 bar ….

Servus. I changed my gas train now and actually the scooter runs really well. I don’t know if it’s because it’s ass cold but the scooter runs too fat and has misfired at full speed and that hardly comes from the spot. I then played a little bit at the carburetor yesterday and drove a lap and he really ran very well. Today he already has this problem again but no matter how the carburetor is adjusted he doesn’t want to decide himself

Hello everyone, My son has an ATU Explorer Race GT 50 Bj 2012. Because he had already ridden before, we have now installed new Zylindetkit from Top Performance, remove beef in variomatics as well as throttle-free crackers, variomatics from Mallosi etc. I now want to change main nozzle against a bigger one, because the scooter now rotates significantly higher than before with throttle. Have removed the nozzle, it is M6 50 size. Total height of nozzle is 10mm, as said M6. But I find nowhere a nozzle M6 with Gesa mthöhe of 10mm, but which with 8mm. Where did you get the nozzles? Ev Link with suitable nozzle, would like to install 55-60 Thank you

Yesterday I bought a 2004 aerox scooter.With the seller he immediately started with e starter and kickstarter, tachoanzeige digital has worked. now at home no more light the speedometer is not working and the battery is very weak. With kickstarter he jumps however immediately.please for help since I am not the big screwdriver.lg thank you

Hello forum community, I was looking for a used, small, agile 50s scooter in retro look, with low seat height, low weight and 4-stroke engine for my wife. A row ding dang 2-stroker with blue flag and chainsaws noise was out of the question. He should be quiet, start well, have a reasonable helmet compartment and be easily accessible for maintenance. There was only the SYM Mio 50 or the Kymco New Sento 50i in question. The SYM Mio was not offered as a used in our region at all. And with the Kymco it looked hardly better. Also with the dealers there was nothing. Then, however, I came across a private sales advertisement of a Kymco New Sento 50i. Color light blue metallic. A pensioner had bought the middle of 2014 new and since then he only stood 1 1⁄2 years only in the garage, was driven practically only by the dealer home. I bought the scooter at the bargain price, including topcase and luggage carrier, but the battery was weak. During the test drive he did not pull the sausage From the plate. From 0-40 Km/h (according to Tacho 45 Km/h) took an eternity, over 11 seconds. Finally it came then to 50 Km/h. I thought, well, enough for the city and for shopping. Besides, the engine has not yet entered. I had then charged the battery and at the gas station increased the air pressure of the tires. Then the tank with Aral Ultimate super filled. After that it ran clearly better and came according to Tacho to 55 Km/h. Until the 500 Km inspection were still 400 Km, which should have been carried out 6 months after the handover inspection after checkbook. Although still in the warranty, this is forfeited because of the coating. I have now carried out the 500 km inspection myself, oil change, oil sieve clean, final drive oil change, check spark plug, adjust valves, brake and gas pull, pull all screws, check fork, light check. The whole thing is very easy. With few screws the Helmfac can be checked h remove. Only for the valve setting a panel in front of the seat is better to remove as well as the housing for the fan wheel on the right side of the engine. I then checked the Vario rollers and the belt after checkbook specification. However, I noticed the sliding bushing because it has a waistband with 4.2 mm thickness. The drive belt also left only running tracks up to half of the washers. I changed this and at the same time the Vario rollers against Dr. Pulle y SR-weights replaced. Last but not least, I wanted to check the full throttle position on the throttle valve housing. To do this, I removed the rubber suction hose of the air filter on the throttle valve housing and looked at the position of the throttle valve with a mirror and flashlight. At full throttle position on the throttle handle, the throttle valve only half opened. That was also the main reason why the scooter took so long from 0-40 km/h. So I just corrected the stop screw for the throttle valve stop. So the throttle valve can now open fully. Now the scooter runs as I imagined. From 0-50 km/h it is reached very quickly. Car traffic is not hindered during the acceleration. The limiter does not insert and also on the mountain the speed falls hardly. This is all very quiet and at moderate speeds. If necessary now is also beyond Tacho 50 still acceleration At Tacho 70 on a level road, it is then over. On a slope, there is probably more, because the limiter does not use, which also the Pulley ́s enable. The small injection engine runs like a clockwork and always starts immediately. I drove with full tank 225 km and had to refuel only 4.5 liters. The last beam segment of the tank indicator was at the blinking. This corresponds to a consumption of 2.0 liters to 100 km. So the 5.5 liter tank volume would have to be good for approx. 270 km. Unfortunately, there are hardly any accessories on the German market of Kymco for this scooter, except for the luggage carrier and topcase. However, at Kymco in Holland, where I found it, I had upgraded the scooter with a chromed headlight ring (like the Vespa), a small windshield, a chrome ring for the tank cover, a chrome trim for the air filter and an exhaust hood in chrome. news The prices, however, are a lot cheaper for NL internet providers than for Kymco. Maybe I set a few pictures from the scooter. Overall, this scooter is a snug, the light is good, there is a sonorous blinker tacker and the storage space is also OK. It is very agile and light, the brakes also slow enough for this vehicle class. The suspension has to compensate what the small 10 inch wheels pass on to the chassis. At least the rear suspension leg is adjustable. For normal road surfaces, the ride comfort of this small scooter is quite decent. Due to the low weight and the small 10 inch wheels, the scooter initially seems a bit tilty, but you can get used to it. In any case, driving with this scooter, although only a 50s, is a lot of fun, especially if the engine is as lively as it is now. It is not necessary to use the full throttle to swim along in urban traffic. Also the workmanship is carefully and with a lot of love designed. What does not like is the side stand, since it collapses on its own again and has no ignition breaker. Thus, the scooter is only partially safe. There is a set with onboard tool missing. The operating instructions are very poor and partly faulty. The change of the HS1 headlight bulb is somewhat cumbersome. For 2-person operation a little short, despite The result: a small, light and agile scooter for the city and the work path, fell driving pleasure, good ergonomics for small as well as larger people, because the bench is not graded, potent and quiet 3-valve injection engine with low consumption and low speed level, but still good passage also on the mountain. As a new vehicle, however, Kymco also demands a self-confident price for d In the colour light blue metallic a valuable appearance. Too bad that it is so rare to see on the roads. Used an absolute recommendation. Comparative value acceleration: 0-40 Km/h (with speedometer 45) 7,5 sec. driver 95 Kg, full fueled greeting Sympat

Hey guys, I bought me a Peugeot Gipsy and made a few changes. I installed a sports air filter and an air filter mat from Malossi. Now to the problem: • The scooter runs clean in the stand. • When driving it just goes out after 50–80 meters. • After that I have to wait a very long time until it starts again. What I already tried: • Larger nozzle installed (did not bring anything). • Checked on false air (no found). • Carburettor clean & petrol supply checked (swimming chamber remains full). • CDI, ignition coil & pickup tested (everything works). Does anyone have any idea what else it might be? I am grateful for any help! The same problem converted to standard

Hi, I bought a new scooter from GT-Union. It is throttled from 45 to 25 km/h and drives just under 28 km/h. Does anyone know if the distance ring in the Vario has, or if all this is electronically controlled? And if electronically, are there ECUs that make it only about 7 km/h faster? Thanks for your answers

Good day together! I had the honour that I was tried to steal my 4T Kisbee, for this purpose the light mask was broken open and cable cut. Unfortunately I don’t know myself with scooters and technology at all. The workshop has time only next week, but I would have a hobbyist friend who could probably fix it, but who can also only next week. Therefore I wanted to ask how you can estimate the damage and which parts to replace? Cluss still works, just like the helmet compartment. Electricity is of course no longer on the scooter. Steering wheel lock I did not have one inside (your teaching money). In the appendix are still the pictures. Would like to order the spare parts as soon as possible, if you are of the opinion that an experienced hobbyist also gets there and is not a case for the workshop. Forgive my ignorance, am just a passionate scooter driver who wants to be mobile again quickly.

Hi together, I’m new here and introduce myself briefly. I am 39 years old trained kfz mechanic and come from Düsseldorf. My problem child is called Kymco Xciting 500i rr from 2012. First, Yes I have read all the posts and applied some ideas, unfortunately so far without success. I have the problem of breaking the tension with my scooter at the start (ctek maintenance hangs permanently) to 9 volts. I check this using the cigarette lighter (plug) as well as with Multimet battery has already been changed 2 times (once connect with 220a with 270a) no improvement. As soon as the temperature is below 15 degrees, the scooter rotates a maximum of 1 revolution until it arrives at 9volt. Even when bridging and also with a booster (70a) the voltage falls off. The problem usually exists only in the morning. As soon as the temperature rises over 20 degrees it immediately starts without starting aid. Voltage then at 13.4v. controller came new last year. Since I the Probl I’ve been using a lot of things from the forum for a while. Starter is new (was a carbon-broken oil change from 10w to 5w (in terms of viscous fluid) spark plug heat value changed (to try and rebuild) Additional mass cable from block to frame. Since I’m already selling the scooter at that point I’m asking for more solutions here. Someone else a tip ?