Category: Motorroller Forum

A good year 2025 for all those who have not yet crossed my way here! My rasinante from Taiwan needs a new brake on the ass. Original brake disc is not possible, because first of all expensive (Heng-Teng: 185€) and second with long holes for ventilation. This looks funny if I walk in front of normal holes in the brake disc and not at the back. The following two discs in the photo would fit. The discs differ a little in thickness, the hole optics and something more in the price. For possible differences in material quality or Min TH I could unfortunately get out nothing: Photo left: NG1847: 4mm thickness, 66 Euro Photo right: NG1849 4.5 mm thickness, 99 Euro The more expensive disc has 14 holes more and half a millimeter more thickness. Can one derive a better quality from the black colored inside and the higher price? Or do you think that is the same steel anyway? The original disc is blackened inside as well… I would like new S I had had bad experiences with another 300 SYM scooter: beautiful Brembo discs ordered from Italy – sintered EBC pads with them and the scooter got brake noise, like the tram and increased hand power… in case of cases the effect was very good, but to be heard with every braking, I don’t have to have again… If you have a helpful tip for making decisions for me, that would be great. Greeting and kiss T.

It is a Speedfight 2, LC, BJ 2004 with WFS and electr. Oil pump As far as screwdriving is concerned I am not a full professional but also no bloody beginner. So a little experience is already available, nevertheless this scooter really gets me finished. The scooter was bought about 2 months ago and did not run. Sparke was weak and bluish, candle remained dry. No thing, Luffi disassembled and cleaned, carburettor also (brake cleaner, compressed air, etc) New candle turned in, ZK plug made new because the old one was brittle. Result: the candle now sparks strong blue, but remained still dry after countless attempts. A compression test then returned almost 7 bar at a mileage of 13TKM, which seemed to me a little too little. So Vario and LIMA opened up and emptied and look, both Simmerrings were clappy wet and the KW had plenty of play. So motor split, a bearing had only 3 balls and new bearings and Simmerrings installed, the KW I left it, because it made me a good impression after the knock test and even seemed like new. For this there was a new cylinder including piston the old looked no longer really great and a new membrane block which now really closes correctly. Compression is now at something over 9 bar should actually be extra-rich at least the ZK is wet now, but the engine nevertheless does not start. Start-up spray in the lollipop or directly into the ZK hole did not bring any success. again I have the feeling that a bit ignites but it is not enough that the engine starts. occasionally small smoke clouds come out of the exhaust (which is absolutely free by the way) I tried the different settings on the carburetor and nothing changed. currently I have the mixture screw out only three-quarters of a turn, because my other Speedy starts well with it. Today I noticed that the battery has only 12 volts. So I have a new and fully charged e Dran hung and that suddenly only had 3V. Then I pulled off all the plugs and measured until I arrived at the CDI. When the plug was plugged down the voltage remained at 12,7V. Do I have to look for a break in the cable or did I shoot the CDI? My CDI has 2 plugs, one seperate for the WFS. If I have to buy a new one, which costs almost 80 Euro the WFS must be learned as with the car and how does it work? can you even do this yourself? if the learning is done n must, could I take the old cdi only for the WFS (the circuit was ok) and the other plug into the new CDI? I also saw that there are CDI’s supposed to bridge the WFS, does that work or rather fingers away? Could it really be in my case that the CDI is gone and the scooter finally starts with a new one then or do you think that the problem could lie somewhere else? I’m curious about your opinions. SG Rob

Greetings together. Hope my request reaches you well. Thank you for your time. My sym HD 300 as well as many other scooters have quite tight maintenance intervals of 5000km. Maybe a stupid question but…are these really necessary or is this quasi the “hook” for the relatively good new price? Had a look at the Honda Forza 750 once, which is of course twice as expensive, but has 12,000km maintenance intervals. Thus, a balance inside is relatively fast. are the motors and parts really so much different in the care? And finally a separate question…. Glass cleaner for the scooter Ok? Drive through the year in wind and weather. But make it regularly clean 1-2 a month. Thank you very much.

I went off the way down and scooter ran well until he got rid of the gas and then didn’t jump at all. Then had to go home with the train incl. scooter and then checked the following: Sparkling carburetors Gasoline supply Cylinders On the piston I found very small grains of sand but no abrasion on the cylinder walls. No plan why it no longer concerns. But the noise in the video is new to me (which unfortunately I can’t upload so I took a picture of my scooter on the train).Maybe it’s the V-belt but I’m not sure

I’ve been reading here a lot lately that some people have been thinking about fueling up 50s mopeds. From their own experience (build a completely installed Gilera Runner 50 SP ) back again and that’s a bit tedious. It only brings you “quickly” to change the cylinder/piston. Answers about this are enough here, sometimes apart from the legal side. Often the carburettor has to be adapted or even a new one in. The Vario is not spared either b and and and. In addition comes the necessary technical understanding ( and no I am also not the dear God and do not know everything ). Take the money and go with wife/girlfriend/partner nice food and you make someone happy, even the constant look in the rear-view mirror is not so necessary up to the traffic. Sometimes so my thoughts about it. Greeting Parunzel

Servus, I’m just about to “revise” my Honda Bali because there were some things that had to be done simply, I’m also so satisfied and only have a little problem, maybe one of you has the saving notice After I disassembled the scooter I had a part left, it’s a sleeve, I hang 3 pictures on which you can see the well, my problem is I don’t know where this sleeve came from, which was suddenly under the rear tire… comes in the carburetor almost in the air channel over the needle coming from above from the gas train, but does that really make sense? Vll has one of you nen tip… thank you already Stefan

Hi there, there are some threads to the SYm Citycom, which mostly concern the newer years of construction. I would like to look at this model at the Honda dealer here :https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/…/1625779857-305-7986 I’m re-entering and have limited my budget to 1500.-, therefore for the first time no newer model is considered. 2009 is probably the first generation of the scooter ? That he does not yet have ABS is clear, but there are known vulnerabilities in the generation d I should note ? There is also a post on bad workmanship at SYM here in the forum, but does this concern only the 50 models , or also the Citycom ? I am 185 cm tall , I found a test report to the 2009er , which sounds quite good . What tips can you give me possibly ? Thank you for your effort . Ralf

Hi it is about a 4 T China scooter (znen) Will convert my e-choke to a manual chuke… but cih doesn’t even know which carburetor I have, there’s nothing on it, is a replica too.. but is that a dellorto ? have this carburetor:https://www.quad-company.de/…metal lid-forer-139qmb-qma-4-takt what is that? CVK? PWK? Dellorto? Keihin? and would one of these manual chokes fit on it? : two:https://www.racing-planet.de/…-dellorto-gasser-p-244848-1.h tml?…https://www.quad-company.de/…/choke-manuelle-umruest-kit-arreche has someone done something like this before? because I’m surprised that with all the manual chokes the needle is missing on taps…. that can’t fit…. love greetings

Hello dear people my father has now bought a slightly newer Kymco Agility 50 built in 2019 with 6000 km used. From 2019 to 2022 he was approved as a Mofa 25 kmh from 2022 to 2025 which is now open with 45 kmh. Before that he had a Kymco Agility 50 built in 2009 with 62,000 km. Slowly he had already made some quirks and therefore he bought a used new scooter. Now the following problem occurs that he starts very hard and when he starts then The speed goes up and down slightly but not always. If the scooter has started once and I turn it off then I can start it again immediately without any problems. If I start it with the electric starter it takes a second and it is immediately on. But as soon as it stands for longer time it does not work as it should and it takes long until it starts. I wanted to replace the complete carburettor because we still have a carburettor there I have to notice that the new carburetor has screwed on completely different parts I think this is a so-called AGR valve for the environmental impact On the left side of the carburetor is something screwed for what is it supposed to be? I send you a photo with I could actually exchange the carburetor from the old scooter or what must I take into account. I have already tried to do the following. Carburetor cleaned stand gas nozzle and petrol nozzle cleaned. n what else it could be like said once he jumped on he goes to immediately again. Would I really be happy about your help

Moin together. My big guy and I bought a Rieju RR50 and are quite satisfied. She only had the wheel bearings at the back, which had to be new. We then started to make ourselves too smart and bought a set of rims/tires privately, which according to the seller should have run on a RR50. Order, arrived, great joy, because the really look good and then the disillusionment when trying to install the new ones. At the front the tacho snail does not fit, because in front of the ball bearing sone kind Abst andshülse is that has 2 noses and so I couldn’t put the tachoscnail back in a reasonable way. Do I just have to flex the noses away and then the snail on top or are there suitable snails for it? Rear axle also of course n problem. The fitting sleeves between rims and recording do not fit any more with the new ones, since the rims on the recording were more than the old ones and as if that was not enough is also everything aimed at 12mm. The RR50 however has a 15mm axle… now I really measure everything and buy me new sleeves inside and outside so that I can get it installed? Unfortunately the seller is silent after I confronted him with it. Would I be happy if you have tips or can help me further. Matching new wheel bearings we have already lying. Many greetings from the vicinity of Bremen ??