Category: Motorroller Forum

Hello together, as a long reader I have now registered here to get advice about my request. In short: I am 34 years old and after I had a Speedfight 1 in my youth, I bought a scooter (Beeline Tapo 50) to get from A to B in the city quickly. In normal everyday life I drive Golf Gti and 1 BMW. My scooter has now 3000 km down and I realize that it is not so fast on the mountain anymore. At about 2000 km I already had this effect, which is why I opened up the variomatics and already noticed signs of wear on the Vario weights. I then turned all the weights once and the acceleration of the scooter on the mountain was again in order, as usual. So now it is obvious that the weights are worn and have to be replaced. I think the quality of the weights is simply not as good with this “China scooter” My questions are now: – Can this effect actually arise from the weights? – Does anyone know what weights I need for the Beeline Tapo (dimensions, grams,…)? – Do lighter weights bring a better acceleration? – Does anyone have general experience with the Beeline Tapo? Thanks for the help! Best regards!

Hello , would like to buy me again a scooter , had my 2 clock Piaggio Zip sold back then unfortunately where was not foreseeable that the gasoline prices would rise sometimes so strongly , and yes now in the weather I miss that also something . Now poses for me the question what a technique ? I only know the one of my Zip carburettor 2 clock which was very well pulled but also thirsty . Read a lot with the younger and new , 2 or 4 clock with E carburettor or injector . I would to 1000 E uro to spend for a used . Or like here an almost new for 1550 euro .https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/…/2108353415-305-17135 If I take now a 2 clock with injection consumes it nevertheless not much or ? Does it hang better on the gas than a 4 clock with zb E carburetor ? The Kymco is a 4 clock with E carburetor does what ? I would probably prefer 4 clocks this time because of the consumption and because I find they are smoother running . But I have never driven . Bas I can teln , but the desire to do it has also decreased somewhat with the age . Therefore you would certainly advise me to a brand scooter , which I then can then also bring to the workshop times to wait . Must say I would for the time being also do without a car , would even if I would get me again a 2 clock would still save some even if this is more thirsty . Is 4 clock with injection more expensive if something is defective ?

Hi there, I’m new here and I have a question: I recently made the B196 extension and bought a Kymco Downtown 125i. It’s from 2011 and ran almost 9000km. It’s great for me but I watched this during my first longer exit today: During the ride, the cooling water indicator fluctuates between 1 and 2 strokes, which I would call normal. In the traffic jam however (outside temperature 24 degrees) the indicator rose to the ” high” range and went down again on further drive. Buddy of me suspects the thermostat as a cause. Do you have another idea or maybe the display of this Kymco series is not so accurate and I don’t need to worry about it? Thank you!

Hello together, I need help my CPI scooter does not start after a year of service life, whether Estart or Kickstart (battery is freshly charged) Ignition: I checked spark plug, which sparks, checked it several times after many kickstart attempts, it is not wet. Fuel: petrol vacuum valve seems to be okay, you see how when kicking is promoted by the transparent hoses fuel. Carburettor: I have carburettor from cylinder inlet and air filter flange abmonti I did not remove the lower lid from the carburettor, because I don’t have a new seal and I don’t know if I can get it close together again. Carburettor looks clean when you see through inlet and outlet. Air filter: Is bad, has to decompose a lot of covering in order to get there, what I haven’t done so far, have to glue the opening half too, because I thought he was moving. t maybe somewhere wrong air, didn’t bring anything. Exhaust I removed, because I thought that maybe he was sitting down and hinders it, but also without he doesn’t want to run. Two weeks ago I tried to start, since he almost came two times, or. ran about 1 second but was immediately out again. Have no desire to kick anymore. Any tips or ideas, what else can you do?

Hello, I have a Honda SH125i for 4 years – the part is from 2007 with about 15 Tkm and am very satisfied. I also have the motorcycle license, so I think about whether I should get a slightly stronger scooter. I would buy a good used one again. I would probably keep my SH125i – it costs almost nothing in the maintenance (24 € insurance per year). I have read the days in forums, but am still unclear which class it should be. What bothers me, since ß the 125er is too lame for the highway (here also called the last one). The new used one should easily create its 130 km/h, in order to the “cars” on the scooter – the SH125 is very narrow and agile. The bigger and stronger how to become, the wider they are. The SH is also available as 300er and would be narrow. What advantages do the wide gliders have? Probably more comfort!? With which I don’t know, what are these for brands like Kymco? According to experiences it should be I don’t like Vespa at all. I like the Japanese (Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki,…). About the engine, how much ccm this should have I’m also unsure. Think at least 250 ccm, like 300 ccm. What about the 400s class? There are also 650ccm scooters. I think that would be too big / too much of the good. Driving profile: as written my Honda SH125i I would keep that, I would take it for the near area if it should go a little further, then the stronger one. en, more comfortable (?) scooter. Look forward to your suggestions. Thanks & Greetings E500 AMG

Hello, Before a few technical data: CPI bingo Bj 2002 10 years of service life (for 2 months back on life ~2000 kilometers in time driven ) Mofa papers (grossed on 30 kmh) Renewed for service life: Cdi ignition coil battery tacho wave tachoscnake variomatics weights(not new but as new=the old ones were already almost angular) So now to the problem: For a few days (actually nothing special, unusual happened or noticed) Starts the lighting to ,flacking ‘ Standlights tacholight and dipped-beam (he has no light) catch during the ride and also occasionally in stand to become brighter and darker What goes on to me and the drivers also Sometimes it runs for a few minutes without problems and then it ‘flakes’ again (the light does not go off but only gets strongly bright and dark in short distances) As said all lighting flickers Whether this is the case with the rear light I can’t say what could it be? Ic h hope it’s on the voltage regulator Can that be? Otherwise, only the alternator would be eligible to break what I don’t hope I thank you in advance for your help greeting

Good evening, I’m about to make my newly acquired Pantheon float again. I removed the head gasket with the assumption that this defect is due to water loss. I removed the head gasket and organized a new one. However, I have now the problem that the Honda parts catalog confuses me with the installation direction of the head gasket. On this is a flap and also on the engine housing. When expanding the flap exactly coincided with the flap on the cylinder, since sin d so three large holes in it, during removals were placed on top. And according to the original Honda spare parts catalog this would be mounted the other way around, the three holes bottom Only then the flap does not exactly match that of the cylinder. Who can tell me exactly what is right now and possibly still tell me the tightening moments of the head nuts. Would look forward to answers. MFG Michael

Hello people I wanted to do a bit of advertising on my own and introduce you to my project, because I drive with my scooter to Pisa. No – not 125, but with a 50ccm and two friends who also ride with a 50ccm scooter. Overall we drive 2300 km (back and forth) so we drive over the Alps! and the whole tour is then captured by us later in a film and shows how we drive, camp, eat and much more. If you have questions (hi he post) and wanted to know more, please visit my blog.

I sell my Explorer GT Race 50 Limited it is in very good condition everything works no defects build year 2009 can be driven test n few things were made like led mini flasher rear of DF optics parts the rear is black lacquered otherwise no changes only curved to 58 through processed and fan wheel cover is selfmade but original there is with it ^^ technically in perfect condition to release baser kick as well as e-starter funkionieren also everything top i ch hope for many interests he is immediately ready to drive insurance is still up to 1 märz 2011 At Ebay there are also pictures Ad number: 19476762 please report by phone under number 01777108542 MfG ChriZ

hello, can someone tell me if that is ok or what that is.. have a benzou roller throttled to 25 km/h.. have now changed the electronic part that he now runs 40.. only now from 35 km/h the scooter makes animal crack… it starts to vibrate quite lukewarm then something, so that if you drive in the car behind the wheel the disks shake… what can that be exactly? many people can tell me the kenamd.. thanks.. gruss michael