Evening, I had bought a rather stable trailer for the scooter to transport a box of beer, or to throw away green stuff. That was already the holm, now I would like to know which clutch would be suitable for it? Can you do with the dimensions what? I think the ball should have around the 20mm, what stable clutch do you know? What about the Hebie F3? Unfortunately I don’t see an ID, so I don’t know if it fits?!
Category: Motorroller Forum
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Honda Vision 110 – does any major maintenance have to be half a total damage??
Hello, so far I have always praised my scooter (EZ 2012, 18 TKM) for its reliability and its low costs here. Today a bigger invoice was due, 430 € for a set of new tyres including assembly and a small inspection. To make the HU, it is said that the steering head bearing has to be re-made, which is supposed to cost another 280 €. All this at a Honda brand workshop. So far, I am afraid to “free” myself with half as high hourly rates. I also have developed a weakness for the idea of “sustainable driving”, in which one drives a vehicle as long as it is still good and accepts the costs of maintenance and, if necessary, repairs. I still love the scooter, in the city you can easily get there with the engine power, the handling is still great, etc. etc., etc. I still love the scooter, in the city you can easily get there with the engine power, the handling is still great, etc. etc. But if my vision, which once cost € 1,850 new and is now perhaps worth € 1,200, then the now due € 710 are quite happy. And the maintenance intervals of only 4,000 km also go quite nicely into the money. In other words: Is there from your point of view for a non-selber screwdriver (in Berlin, btw) a reasonable alternative to the brand workshop? Or should I buy again a new car, in which the first years (foreignly) Is the Commission aware of the fact that it is not in the interests of the Member States that it is not in the interests of the Member States.
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My scooter squab from Peugeot loses oil
Hello, I’m new here and would be very pleased if you can help me. My scooter, 50 Kubik Squab from Peugeot Lost oil. I asked a dealer and he totally discouraged me because he said that the Simmerrings have to be replaced and that would be so expensive that I didn’t pay for the repair. He gave this error diagnosis but only on my description. I send you a few photos with where you can see clearly where the oil drips. I am very grateful for every help. ar da the scooter otherwise runs impeccable I would like to drive it further but of course only if he no longer loses oil.
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“Reducing gearboxes” on the scooter
Quotation: @MIFIA4wrote on 1 May 2016: New thread ! MIFIA, no one has said otherwise !! It was claimed (and also scooters must therefore have one) ” !! And THAT can not be left standing SO, because otherwise this “wrong message” would spread!! But if you look at the Vario, then this is only a “reduction/reduction gear”, about in the middle the speed 1:1 from the crankshaft to the clutch is transferred, towards the end the clutch turns takächli ch far faster than the crankshaft !! And these high speeds must be the “reduction gearbox” to a moderate speed corresponding to the tyre size and engine power (that’s why also “reduction gearbox” THAT is actually the only task of these scooter gearboxes. Also a “studded diploma screwdriver” should know that there are quite several correct designations for the same thing !! …and that with the scooter 2 “angle gearbox” NOT GIVES (not even meaningfully) a d enkender man also know !! (Angular gearbox is what was called here as “differential gearbox” on the motorcycle) A cardan shaft on the motorcycle must e.g. have an “angle gearbox” on the rear wheel axle ! “Reduction gearbox” is therefore a quite common designation, not only for scooters. While “differential gearbox” for this “roller speed reduction gearbox” is completely FALSE !! (also on the motorcycle, even on all single-lane vehicles) !! kbw
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Sachs Bee 50 still defective despite new V-belt
Hello! I have a Sachs Bee 50 which is now already 8 years old. Yesterday I was torn by the V-belts during the ride. No problem, my husband said and changed it. However, this caused another problem where we don’t know where it comes from! The scooter normally starts with a kickstarter, but then makes a rattling noise and vibrates more than before. Bumped up he takes on gas perfectly and the rear wheel turns lightning fast. Higher speed also stops rattling and vibrating. However, the stationary gas is much higher than before and when you operate the rear brake it almost goes out. But the biggest problem is the following: If you take the running scooter off the main stand, it rolls in the stationary gas but even under full gas it does not move any faster. What could this be? We were only at fairing, air filter (there in the way) and at the belt itself (including Variomatrik? because you have to expand the probably to tighten your belt again. ) I would be happy about any helpful comment LG Shaini
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Cold start problems Honda Bali SJ50
Hello dear screwdriver I own a Honda Bali SJ50 of 97 the scooter stood for 6 years in an underground garage and therefore only 6000km on it now I have only one problem with the cold start… I stopped after the 6 years 2 weeks ago with him a small lap with a new Baterie drove the scooter though took some time until he took gas that took so about 5-10min until he was warm and took gas afterwards the ride was all great. So today 2 weeks n ah the first ride I wanted to make a round again but the scooter didn’t want to kick him with the kickstarter he ran then only about 20 seconds until he is drunk I tried it again and again he took gas on but immediately afterwards he is drunk again I want to fix the scooter myself and need your help. What does it matter that he is soaking (deadly full tank and enough oil)? Please help me :/ I am looking forward to your help Greetings Erik from Esslingen
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E-starter, light, turn signal, horn, tank indicator defective – SYM Fiddle II
Hello, dear, tl;dr: E-starter, light, flasher, horn, tank indicator defective – SYM Fiddle II. New battery, fuses ok. What’s up? I’m new here and introduce myself with a question: My girlfriend has bought a used SYM Fiddle II (1350km). The scooter stood over the winter in the garage and had a few start difficulties at the first start. But by carefully gassing it at some point he ran round. At the first “exit” we noticed at some point, that the turn signal no longer works (originally worked perfectly). In addition, a little later the light and the horn came. After the tank stop it was then that also the tank indicator stopped at “empty” and the scooter could not be started over the E-starter any more. Kickstarter worked after some (certainly 20-30) kicks. The scooter then ran, however, also in operation neither light, turn signal, horn and tank indicator work. In the meantime the scooter is in the garage with us, w I have a new battery here to test (no results), I also checked the fuses (10A and 15A “tubes”, which seem fine. What can this be? I hope for your concentrated expert knowledge
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Kymco Heroism CDI defective ? At full throttle suddenly off – Zuendkerze black –
Hello friends I drove with us today on the “finish straight” about 300 meters full throttle. Suddenly brrrrruuuummm and the donkey went out. Start attempts remained only without success, afterwards he went zoegernd over E- starter. However only for about 2 minutes. A new attempt to start remained only without success. After that he went on but immediately out again. The whole happened to me now for the second time. At the first time it was the Zuendkerze. The mechanic changed them to me u nd said I should use better oil, because the candle picture was black. The current candle was installed on 24.05.2016 and is the original BR8HSA. However, I was recommended the BR9HS for my SET UP. My question is now: A candle NGK should keep according to the manufacturer in about 8000km. Can a defective CDI be the cause for that, that the donkey the candles really “fret” ?? on the cylinder it can not lie, he had no compression would the kick starter spin through. Abge see of it the cylinder is 6 months old and by an Italian market leader .. The whole happened now 2x and always at full throttle ..
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Sym Jet Euro 50 X Built 2005 (G5J or BL05W) 45Km/h Approval
Moin, does someone happen to have a sym jetz Euro 50 X Built 00 – 05 with 45km/h registration? My son has been driving the scooter for 2 years and since he now has the driver’s license with accompanied driving, he is also allowed to drive scooters with 45km/h. We wanted to upgrade the scooter, but unfortunately we don’t get any information if this is possible and if so, how. To make it clear: this is not about illegal tunes, I’m talking about a legal upgrade. Problem is simple: TÜV has the registration original customers of both The 45s version also has more power, so the engine has to be throttled. Sanyang doesn’t move anything out, points out the dealers. The dealers also don’t want anything out, want more money than the scooter is worth for the conversion… 🙁 What I know for sure so far: it’s NOT throttled over the CDI! Even the Vario-Matik-Rings alone don’t do anything, since the engine then runs out of the “pust” over gauf e.g. I have already made various searches for the type approvals, but only Dutch pages come up and there it is allowed on 45km/ – is really milking to the mouse… Must be somehow possible without that cost 500€?!? So if someone has such a scooter with official 45s approval, I would be grateful for a contact, possibly offline.
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Jetforce bj 2006
Hello and good day. Here’s a little update to my jetforce. I bought this as in another post already mentioned as a construction site and prepared it so far that it starts. Said construction site only jumped with start help spray and then drove then also first. So I put myself on and first air filter, carburetor, suction tracked & membrane removed. Intake tracked and membrane were absolutely scrap and porous, that was valid for the seals. The carburetor absolute Kata strophe and without any chuke. Of course he didn’t want to. Have bought these parts also all together new. The compression is at 9.05 bar,should be more than sufficient. Now everything is installed and after 500 times kicking the carburettor had also decided to run full and start the engine. Engine also runs great. My problem is now, it jumps well at very good even, accelerates absolutely top,BUT ….. Only until it is warm, then up to about 25 30 kmh afterwards He goes to his knees in terms of speed, engine is smoked duller and he takes forever until he has reached his 45 50 kmh. Now my guess is that the carburetor of Dellorto 17.5 is the cause. Have left everything that belonged to the carburetor or delivery so and built in. My question would be he gets too much or too little sprung? Or what could be the cause? New: Spark plug spark plugs plugs carburetor + membrane + suction track Related seals.