Category: Motorroller Forum

hello, I just overtook the engine general at my piaggio quartz lc 50 (bj.92) and now I want to renew the coolant among other things. at the bottom of the cylinder I pulled off a hose and thus drained the coolant (not the hose directly on the cylinder). at the water pump wheel directly under the crankshaft you can see, however, some blue liquid, which has no longer drained off. my distributor has now red coolant mi tgeben. do I first have to flush the system so that no rest of the old blue liquid remains or can I fill up directly with this new liquid, which has a different color ? many thanks in advance

Hello girls, sorry that I come in here with my problems but maybe someone can help me or tell me if my idea is justified. And indeed, I imported a 5 year old Riju Tauris Samba from Spain and probably built in China, he currently has 300km on the clock. I drove him 5 years ago, and then put him in the garage, unfortunately with liquids, he didn’t jump first, carburettor disassembled and cleaned, suction socket checked, spark plug new, air filter looks great. He jumps on, stops his stationary gas and from other skies he spins completely, that is! he pushes in standing, from about 15 km/h so to speak cruise control. Have tried to adjust everything, at the stationary gas screw he says nothing, neither. At the mixture screw he can be put up and down. So that he calms down I adjust the Bowden train, what can that be? Could be the CDI.???? Or the Gasbowden train or??????I know, buy a new scooter ?? but rich for the garden? Thank you and LG Simon

To the scooter community… Stand in front of one – let’s say – luxury problem. Must make up for it briefly: At 16 had made the 1b and sat 2 years on Samson. At 18 (1996) then the car driver’s license, since never again two-wheeler. Until last year. There I got for the work path (about 25 km country road back and forth) a new Honda SH 125i with 12 hp, which I drove up to now about 4T km. Conclusion after a year: CLASS ROLLER!! Drive however constantly at the upper limit. Do not drive a city (there I prefer to get on the bike) and do not make trips. NURLY commercial vehicle to work. However with fun factor! Now my question: Is it worth thinking about a stronger 125 scooter (Forza, Xmas etc.) or even towards A2 to be able to drive higher-class? How are the experiences with 15 PS scooters here in the forum? Above all outside!? I find above mentioned e.g. outrageously expensive. See mic h not as a biker and find motorcycles rather uninteresting. In the driving school they would possibly show me the bird if I wanted to saddle up with the A2 only on 150-300cc scooter! All clear also a cost question. As said, luxury problem. But the SH 125 with Maxpower every day “torment”?!

Have a nice day together Unfortunately I turn directly to you with 1th contribution regarding a scooter purchase. And please excuse me if there are so many posts but with google was never something helpful with or already too old the posts. I really would not have thought that it will be so difficult So to my person am built 1988, I am 1.89 tall and have so 106kg on the venture and therefore looking for a scooter that can reliably and safely transport me to work. Length of the route to the Work is back and forth 22-25km daily One reads a lot of 2 clocks and 4 clocks The 2 clocks should be faster at the start and final speed and the 4 clocks should be the opposite but more economical. So I prefer a scooter that drives about 60 km so that one can keep up in the wrong way. At 2000 Euro at 100 or 200 Euro it should not fail. New or used by the dealer is however rather difficult to find in the surroundings because the hardly any I would be very happy about answers and help because I would like to buy a scooter shortly. Before that love many thanks LG Obelix

Hello all, I have a Kymco Super 9 lc (2 bar). On my last ride with the passenger the engine started to stutter and went off. Since then the Kymco can be started, even in a warm condition and does not go up from the speed. On the gas acceptance via gas grip the engine tries to turn up and stops again. The whole thing repeats again and again. This morning I had started the scooter again, i.e. in a cold condition and then it ran perfectly until just the Te Then the game started from the beginning. Does anyone have an idea what it might be? To the points I had done: – The ignition image of the spark plug was brown/blass, so I had a larger main nozzle installed. – Carburettor Naraku 17.5mm –> Stand-up gas screw set to 1900 rpm + gas mixing screw 2.5 U. – Air filter clean + even without air filter tried – Compression I still have to test –> Battery charging – Gasoline and oil are enough inside

Hello, first of all I want to say this is my first post I hope I’m not doing anything wrong and there is already this topic. I got a scooter given to me under the name Matador it is to be found about Otto. The scooter has run just under 5.5 thousand kilometers. Since unfortunately I don’t know myself with scooters and the actual company where I guarantee and co would not have been reachable I hope to find help here. It started that the scooter started to S until he went out completely at some point. Sometimes he took gas sometimes I didn’t notice when I put my weight on one side during the ride that I could drive better then or stutter the scooter even less. Then I had the carburetor clean once and my exhaust was burned out. I could drive almost 1 week without any problems until he had the same problem again At present I don’t even get the scooter at it he tried it but better if I had to en Roller almost completely on the right side has got it 1-2 if I want to give it a little bit of gas and put it back in a normal position he goes out what could be that? New spark plug and spark plug plugs have been installed. If it is allowed you can also write me over whatsapp 01774413303

Hello, I have a few questions about the rear brake on the 4-stroke China scooters. And I’m surprised to hear about the release of oil on the brake cam. On the pictures are my two scooters. The first is oilier, but has the much higher braking power on the rear wheel. The second vice versa. The oil outlet can actually only be from the Simmerring of the gearbox output shaft? But with the running performance they can hardly be over. Especially since I think that from Anfa The next question: How is the brake wear indicator interpreted in this model? With my old 2T-Rex, there was a “scale” in which the metal arrow moved. Is there a failure here. And finally, the most important thing: how can I adjust the brake even bit more? Is this only possible above the tensioner on the rope hoist? Hydraulic brakes don’t give me any puzzles, but this rope puller doesn’t want the way I want to. Is this mechanical brake also to be at least close to the blocking limit? I am at the limit with the rear tensioner on the rope train. Half-turn further grinds the brake!

Hello together, I have two problems with my Yamaha Neos scooter. It is a two-stroke engine and the problem behaves as follows: 1. It drips gasoline out of the carburetor, but only when the tank is full, and I have driven with the scooter. Then petrol drips out about 1day. After that no more? 2. It does not take full gas in warm condition. When I give gas in warm condition, the scooter becomes slower. When I then take gas away it comes back on its way. But it can basically I already had it in the workshop, after that he even drove great again, but after about 2 weeks of service life it was described again as above under point 2. Who can give me reasonable tips for this? I really need help, because there are hardly any good mechanics who can repair a two-stroke motor. Thanks and greetings Mathias

Hi Scooter friends. I bought a Gilera Runner 180 FXR and probably get it next week. Now I wanted to ask what there are for tuning possibilities to make it a bit more splashy. Mine mainly related to variomatics without major procedures. Unfortunately, don’t know me yet and am curious if someone has some tips from you. It’s only important to me that it’s legal and not too expensive, so would be perfect if you can still call it “ca” prices and if you can call it “ca” prices”. had an SR50 Ditech before and I removed the distance ring there, so I know a little bit about Would be very grateful for a few answers. Thanks in advance, Nick

Hello, when I start it comes only a “click”,at first with slight blows on the starter a success, now no more. If the starter is broken, how does the procedure in the engine work, know it only from the car, there a pinion was pushed into the toothed wreath and brought back to the starting position after the starter.According to photos in the net of the starter the pinion seems firmly connected to the starter. How do I determine which part is broken? Kickstarter, but it’s more comfortable electric! LG Jaga