Category: Motorroller Forum

Hello forum, I think the title already betrays everything. I’m just not able to tune a carburettor cleanly. We have two 2T scooters in the family and every spring they bitch around. What really bugs me. (If the electrics were not so completely overpriced, I would have already separated myself) So every year I run into a workshop and every year I pay a few euros. But even more annoying is the effort, because every time that means that I have my scooter in di This can’t be rocket physics, can it? I didn’t change anything at the air mixing screw. Until he came into the garage in winter, he ran without mucking. The following is done because exactly the behavior described below has occurred after hibernation and freshly charged battery. Fuel new, carburetor (as every year) cleaned. Behavior of the scooter: Roller starts immediately. Turns then high up to approx. 4.000 UPM If the Choke acts, it goes down to approx. 1000 UPM at the speed. And then off, unless I pull off slightly on the gas train, then it chases immediately high to 4,000-6,000 UPM. It is almost impossible to hold the scooter to approx. 1,500 UPM with the gas train. If you start again (Choke is warm and out then), it goes immediately, eats between 2,000 and 1,000 about 1 minute and then goes out. With the idle screw, no stable UPM is achieved. If someone knows what to do then please explain to me, like a primary school student. Greetings Mischa

Hello dear community! I have given my Vespa LX 50 for inspection after 8 years for the first time (shock over my head). I am a total layman and surprised at the high costs (see below). Is this all realistic or was I completely cut over my ear?? Was done: oil pump belts, V-belts, weights, LKL, brake fluid, air filter, spark plug. The material costs amount to 86€. The work costs to 500€! How do you estimate this? rkstatt search or try it yourself? Thank you for your help!

Hello at my Yamaha Axis scooter wanted to change the brake disc and the brake blocks unfortunately the 3 impus screws of the brake disc have become round because they are very tight there is a way to bring out the screws besides drilling Thanks for every helpful tip

Hello together I made the B196 fresh with almost 50 years, and now is thought about what should be purchased as a two-wheeler. Also gives a little noticed thread in the general purchase advice, therefore here again especially for the two large scooters. My routes are: – Several times a week (but not daily) to drive to work in the fine weather time (city traffic @ 50 and main roads @ 60/70 km/h. – Again and again excursions in the surrounding area approx. 100km (country roads @ 100 km/h ) Requirements: Should ABS have and comfortably drive 100km/h. Gladly also without circuit –> scooter. Now I have found little on the Internet regarding comparison of the two. Just a few hints that the pulsation of the Forza can not reach the water. However, already a little older, maybe the pulsion has been improved? Does someone know both and can make a recommendation? Are these suitable for my dimensions? (175cm/80kg) Are they suitable for someone who has never motorized before the B196 Two-wheel drive? Would I have also been interested in the Trinity Jupiter S, which however comes without ABS and with the range it could also be scarce on excursions. Do I miss other road-friendly scooters? Does someone know for the big Kymco (X-Town, DT) the top speed (is somehow not on their side or I am blind…) Currently I tend to the Honda Forza, although I find the pulsion more visually appealing. Thank you for any help in it to me. confirm or dissuade.

Moin dear two wheel specialists, My father’s 125 city star has been having problems for months. He is drinking overnight and no longer jumps. He has now received the following new parts: Ignition: – Spark plug – Ignition cable – Ignition coil Other: – Starter – Injection nozzle The problem is expressed as follows, you try to start the scooter off and to jump it immediately then it runs without problems, you can also turn off the scooter several km at a time, ice cream, shopping etc. d Then you get home and put the scooter under a roof. If the scooter is now standing for a few days, it does not start at 90% and is drunk, if you then expand the spark plug and put it dry or install a spare ignition plug it starts up and runs again as described above. I have already read in another thread about it that some scooters have an anti-fluod function with injection (give full throttle and press 5 sec starter) but this he has nic If you give full throttle and ignite it completely injects. I am getting really helpless, I had the assumption that the injection nozzle drips after and therefore a new verb. Unfortunately, the error still exists. Maybe you still have an idea. LG Noisefreak

Hello forum, wanted to ask here anyway to secure your scooters, since I see today’s contribution stolen by Tomaso69 Medley but they did not come far in that he describes how his scooter was unfortunately badly served by Vandalen after a theft attempt 🙁 This shows how important the topic is. First: I have not yet a scooter, am still in the search phase. It could possibly run out of a new Honda SH150i. With which locks / lock types you secure your scooter? Since I would like to forget something the solution with a brake disc lock would not be so well suited for me. Once not paying attention and a huge damage occurs when driving away with a non-removable brake disc lock. The Grip-Lock lock sounds good, does that do anything? Of course also does not help against charging the scooter on a transporter. On the other hand you see dozens of YouTube videos in which you are shown how quickly each lock appears to be oss (also branded goods) can be violently opened in a short time. What should one take at all? A corresponding insurance then seems quite important to me, which covers this, since I have to ask my insurance again, what costs such a thing in the year. Have already read from GPS trackers, what do you think about it?

It’s not about a special vehicle, it’s not about a special carburettor type, (definitely Keihin CVK), but only about the type of adjustment screw, no matter where it is located on the side of the carburettor. The engine start is always ok, whether at lower temperatures with Choke or at higher temperatures without Chole, but the idling is sometimes more unstable, or, the engine starts to run out after a few seconds; if it doesn’t run out, the void increases and stabilizes. If this adjustment screw is turned in, the idle speed must be increased via the adjustment screw provided for this purpose, otherwise the motor will run out immediately; if this adjustment screw is turned out, the idle setting can either remain like this, be lowered or also be increased; If the choke is pulled outside the pure cold start phase, the motor will run out immediately, while driving all The system has an SLS; would be conceivable that the SLS valve is over? (preventive a new one has been ordered). Yesterday with the subdued minus degrees the idle was stable.

Now I have 4 weeks to get the CO value from 12% to 0.3%. As a total lyke I wanted to go to the workshop, but they are all booked up by the end of May. Now I want to get it myself. That can’t be sooooooo difficult. Maybe someone also knows someone here in Hamburg who still has some karma I hope you can help me with my project. Thanks already!

Hello, I guess I lost the screws for my exhaust (which go in to the cylinder). I ordered a suitable set for my moped (I thought at least). But the screws were too small from the thread… But now I have a problem. In each set there is the seal (which you push into the cylinder like that, looks a bit metallic). Then the thin crusher seal (paper or something), matching screws, nuts and standing bolts? That doesn’t even make me feel like I am. The two screws in the exhaust flange (with paper seal) and finished. What do the nuts and the standing bolts do? Oh and my flange from the exhaust is not fixed at the end of the pipe, but “lommels” the entire pipe along and I can push it back and forth (maybe it has something to do with it?) Hopefully one can help me bring light into the dark *hehe Greetings

Hello together. I have been driving a 125 Satelis o. ABS, EZ 2007 for several years. Type VGA J2AAAA. 13tsd KM. – always ran without problems… After hibernation with battery watcher flickered first the cockpit lighting as well as the display when waking up. Now the display does not work anymore, the hands do not move. The dipped light is off, turn signals don’t go… engine runs smoothly, cooling (ventilator) dito. Likewise the FL flash button. ant. Charging current fits, all ground points and plug connections, relays checked…i.O. Had found a lot of stored errors via the flash indicator, but in my opinion it is not really interesting. The km/h pointer sometimes moves sporadically. My question: Are the turn signals and the light in connection with a control unit controlled over the cockpit and is here possibly something defective? Would be very grateful for a solution!!!