Category: Motorroller Forum

Hello everyone I just registered here I hope you can help me am really desperate. My Cpi Aragon 2007 has a very bad suit I have already invested more money in the scooter than it is worth. I have tested some clutches at the moment I drive a clutch of Naraku with red feathers. My problem is that if I take the variomatics apart and build it together again then I have about 3 hours a really great suit then is After a few hours the suit gets worse again. Got from 4 grams Vario weights up to 6 grams all through. New air filter box is on it New suction plug New spark plug New V-belt sport clutch bell is on it thought by better cooling that the suit remains constant. Have tried other counter-pressure springs without success. New cylinder was recently installed Problem still exists Does someone have an idea why I every time the Variomati k has to open so that I can ride again for three hours. Variomatics has also been replaced with sliding shoes With the carburettor setting I have already tried a lot. I have always the same scooter with a distance ring without a distance ring dangers. In the carburettor there is no throttle left I think it has something to do with the Variomatics because once I screw up the Variomatics and reassemble the suit is there again. When the scooter first drives it runs super bi about 60 according to Tacho only the first meters the scooter does not go up from the spot mountain at all. I open the Variomatik and again I come without any problems even with two men at the beginning the mountain turns up really high. After two hours there is no more speed to hear he drives very slowly and at some point comes the point then he accelerates I can not understand it. For everything in proposals I would be very grateful Greeting Manuel ??

Hi I have a problem with my rex scooter. the ride 25th then looked like the one can drive a little faster. in the black box on the left side the air comes in. then we got the stuff out there what’s in there, so that he gets some more air. there the engine was also much faster, if you gave zb gas. but faster he didn’t drive. now he made so funny noises recently and then got even slower and really rough. What can you do with it going away and driving faster again? have already installed a new battery but that didn’t do anything. I need help who can help me please? has to be out with the scooter every day.

In the last 4 days I have learned a lot , here , about “my” REX scooter ( Chona cheap type ?). Now also own findings adorn now my knowledge . e.g. I mean that this 125er , which in the original condition ! , just reached on the Tacho 82 KM/H , Real seems to be the 77 KM/H , should not be driven for too long with full throttle , also not close . I have found from my , after all 3100 KM thus in 4 months , faults , the presumably cause an overheating to take place t and the ignition system “disturbed” itself. I suddenly stayed on the 25th with the scooter and had to push at least 800 m before I came to a point from where I could expect helper (no cell phone with it!) This disturbance had already been indicated 2 days earlier(so that I would stay lying down///after!) in which the engine did not pull any more “gas”, as if it were swallowing; it even came to a motor run. Well, I had only about 1 Ltr. S prit in, but I think, after what I experienced the next day again, namely after approx. 5 KM with speed 75 approx. again these dropouts( I came afterwards stutteringly home, which it should be due to a kind of overheating of the ignition system, the engine block or all parts that can be affected with overheating. Due to my experience I would like to give the tip, who drives a REX scooter ( 50 – 125 ccm), should drive as little in the top speed range as possible, This would mean 82 KM/ HöchstG. eman should drive only just over 70 KM/H. I do it now so, have meanwhile already “again” 165 KM, so without stumbling. Or who thinks something else ?? Would I really be interested ! mfg. J.

Good day in the round, after renewing the seals between the carburettor and the membrane block, as well as between the membrane block and the engine, I got a new battery. I built it in, and started. After a bit of persuasion the engine started running (was already a little longer). I was running idle, not too high, not too low. So I drove off. Although I turned the gas handle, I only came a little rough at just over 30km/h. In the past the scooter would be supple when I was in position. so back, seat down, removed the bowden train from the engine, it could be moved with a pusher and needle. Checked needle on curvatures, there was nothing to see (from which also). Then I put everything back in place (slider with the cut-in opening towards the membrane block), and started. Engine started, but now with an extremely high speed. A control with the gas handle was no longer possible. I adjusted the Bowdenzugschaubung At the gas handle, no effect, I turned the air and mixture screws in and out one after the other, no effect. Then I had the suspicion that I had inserted the slider twisted, because that could also work, but also this did not bring anything. And that is missing the battery, because I let it go during the experiments, probably did not have any influence. I personally see now only two possibilities: Either the slider is in the built-in state in the carburettor, or the Cold starter remains open. But if the influence at the temperatures has at all I doubt something. Moreover, this contradicts the first driving attempts. What should I pay attention to?? What I did you can read above. Today I went to work again. This time I installed the slider with the cut / sloping side in the direction of air filter. The engine started (something helped with starter spray), jumped on, squirted first properly and dr. The smoke went away, the Leelauf is now so stable that the rear wheel runs a little bit along, as well as can be stopped with one finger. BUT, I now turn at the gas grip nothing happens for about five to seven seconds. After that the engine blows up again. If I let go of the gas grip, it falls back to idle speed again. I did not drive yet, but earlier it turned smoothly according to the gas grip position. What do you do???

I bought a Speedfight 2 yesterday. The seller told me some flaws that were easy to solve. After a small test drive the scooter went out. The reason for this was that the cold was called. The scooter got new pistons and cylinders and many other things. These were already driven up to 200km. I meant not to pull the speed so high but to drive 100km slowly. I also kept the return drive home but after just under 5 minutes The scooter went out. Went back on but completely overheated. I found that it didn’t cool properly. I had the same day drive back directly with a trailer and brought it to the workshop and thought that it could be repaired because only the cooling system didn’t work. The mechanic has now told me that the gearbox, gearbox output shaft is crooked and grinds at the rim. Water pump is also broken by the overheated The water tank has holes so that water splashes out. I noticed also in the village after less than 5 minutes driving with the water tank. The scooter did run and also came around the 70 km/h. I wonder now if the cooling system can be repaired and everything can be rebuilt so that everything fits well or it was recommended to me that the seller should take the scooter back. buyer no longer answers and I am afraid that I have now made a bad loss. There was a purchase contract with everything said that there is no guarantee but in case of hidden defects this falls away. What should I do now ?? Please help me.

There I am again… with a question… Actually it belongs in a new post, but I don’t know how to do it…. My Honda (SH300) suddenly has a problem, or it’s just felt like that by me… the last weeks were very hot…I drove to my wife’s clinic 20 km away every day…crossing two city cores with predominantly 30 zones, and long waiting times before the traffic lights … I noticed that the fan is constantly starting, and the temperature was high. display is also a bit higher than normal… but far from the red area.. Jch has tapped on too little cooling water, but the cooler is brimming…. … My question…this fan has jumped in the eight years where I have the scooter, very rarely….can there be a mistake somewhere?… or do you think it is normal ?? Mfg Helmut

I bought here a LIFAN scooter, used. Two days ago I refueled it. Now he spits constantly fuel from the vent hose of the low pressure gasoline tap as soon as it runs. I can exclude the low pressure gasoline tap, I changed it. What can this be? I also have the feeling that the engine occasionally stutters while running. The tank has only one outlet for fuel, no tank ventilation as a connection (then goes over the lid probably me?)

Hello municipality, I have a problem with my Beeline Pista 50cc 2 clock year 2016. He ran a little over 7000 km. History: A work colleague passed on with her scooter, which stood 1.5 years. According to her he ran perfectly until the last use. Now I have the scooter for 2 weeks and he does not want to run rationally. Other posts unfortunately did not help me, therefore I open a new one. My problem: I get the scooter only with start pilot (both E-Sta) As long as I continue to spray, it runs. If I listen to the start pilot in the carburetor, he is soaking up. In addition, he smokes very strongly during it (could it be that he squirts because of the start pilot?). What I have done already: battery is new, spark plug new, fuel new, air filter new, fuel filter new, fuel valve new, carburetor completely disassembled and cleaned, checked for foreign air. In some of the above works I had help from a fr and who knows a lot better about scooters than I do (I’m completely new to the subject of scooters). We also checked whether gas can get into the carburetor at all, yes he does. Do you have any ideas about what that might be?

Hello, I have run a Honda Spacy CH125 scooter, built in 98, about 35,000 km. So far he has always provided good services, only the ignition box (CDI) under seat broke twice. Since I got no original ignition box anymore, I have built in a non original ignition box. This works well. The problem is that I can no longer adjust the stand gas reasonably, but here I already had problems with the original ignition box. I tried with the mixture scratch be able to get the engine reasonably to turn and then with the stand gas screw set the idling speed. After longer driving the engine goes out in the stand and then has problems to jump again. During the drive the engine runs really well. The carburettor was cleaned a few years ago by the specialized company (ultrasound). Do you have to replace parts in the carburettor, are there still original parts for the carburettor? Greeting Berni

I don’t know if I’m right here in the e-forum. Have the e-scooter Denver de001. Suddenly the power became weaker and after charging the light didn’t even light up in the display. I’ve already screwed up and measured by the plugged-off battery. Are 32.8 volts. The charger delivers 42.3, but it’s the same green so it should be full. Wanted to unload the battery and switched three halogen headlights with 3x 20 watts (60 watts) in series. But there was nothing there. the same attempt with the charger which gives me two amps. Here the test setup worked. Then I connected the charger directly to the plug from the battery but on the scooter side. The display then works again. And also the lighting. Thus I do not assume from a loose plug in the area of the steering rod. I also checked the motor. Did the wheel have to set in motion at the low power that the charger brings? And nu n my question about the pictures. What is this free plug that comes from the controller right in the picture2. (Test plug?) What does the comment on the voltage 30 +/- 1 volt mean? Has any of you ever opened this battery to see and also measure how many cells are broken? What should such a battery cost new? I’m curious about the answers thank you