Category: Motorroller Forum

So, next topic. A colleague broke the thread on the cylinder while pulling off the exhaust (bumper). Since I told him that I signed up in a forum for all kinds of scooters he asked me if I could ask if you can fix it without having to buy a new cylinder. There is a screw on which the curved one is still attached to the cylinder and the second one can’t make it anymore because there is no thread on it. Of course, the j It’s pretty loud and he’s got alu foil wrapped around it, which actually doesn’t bring anything. What about cold sweating mass, does anyone have experience with it?

Hi guys, I’m fresh in the forum I need your knowledge. My Sym Orbit II 50ccm fell 2 weeks ago and started to lose oil. As the scooter stand flowed all the oil out of the secondary air filtration system. I have the air filtration system, where the oil flowed out, where a foam filter was located between two rooms. Everything was cleaned and screwed up again. I filled engine oil again (4strokes). After the scooter stood over a week, h I’m trying to start the engine, which went on and off again for a second. Since then Kickstarter and Autostarter no longer work. At the same time the new oil flowed out of the air filter system again. I have attached a video where you can see how the oil leaks out. What could the problem be? Could this be expensive? I would like to thank you for your effort BG Kenan

Hello, I’ve been having the problem with the scooter for a few weeks, which I probably owed myself. It’s about a Piaggio Zip, Bj 2012, 4500km, no tuning) where I changed the oil pump belt the other day and when I was assembled I couldn’t cover the belt onto the front Vario shaft. In a hurry I didn’t think about pressing the clutch bell together, but with a lot of force pulled the belt forward and still got it up, but he was sitting. 8km, I noticed then that the scooter did not react to my turning on the gas handle with a gradient or only reacted delayed. From the feeling I thought that he gets too little petrol, so carburettor was made clean, mixed adjustment changed, attached a picture of the ZK. I now opened the variomatic box and checked the belt and pressed the converter apart so that the K The edges of the belt look a bit frayed; is it already worn out? Pictures are attached, but with the naked eye I wouldn’t have seen it. After this last check I drove around a little longer and the suit seemed a bit better to me, however, it also blows a bit on the slope and it is still not quite lively. Then I noticed after a few kilometers drive that the Variobox has become very hot, whereas d And in the stationary gas one hears also a cluttering noise at the height of the variomatics, made of it two shots from two different places to exclude environmental noise:https://youtube.com/shorts/Ctw4FHWpkP8?feature=sharehttps://youtube.com/shorts/Ctw4FHWpkP8?feature=share I don’t know now if the drag force problem is related to the noise, but the varioma box was very hot after a few minutes of driving. Is the wedge belt over or is this a problem d What else can I test? Would I be very pleased about solutions.

Hello. I am 50 years young. 192cm tall and have about 115kg. Now I am looking for a 125 ccm scooter. It should also be big enough for me and I would also like to drive longer distances. So not only in city traffic. Cheap but not cheap. Now I have seen a few models on the internet that would interest me. But funnyly there are almost no scooters here in the surroundings on which I could own myself. And on good luck 250 KM f I don’t want to miss it either. Maybe there’s someone who has similar experiences here. I’d be interested in the following models. They’re also pretty much the same in price. Kymco Yager 125 Kymco Gran Dink 125 Piaggio X9 125 Piaggio X9 evo 125 (where is the difference?) possibly Aprilia Atlantic or Peugeot Satelis I’d love the X9 right away. What do you think? Do you have experiences with the scooters? Pros and cons etc? What do I have to pay attention to? Greeting

Good evening together, today he has a 2016 AGM GMX 450 of the kinship in maintenance. Currently about 5500KM ran. Maintenance kit, brake cheeks at the rear and front renewed, brake fluid renewed (established that the sight glass is leaking ;-( – glued so that it can hold somehow over the days. But is replaced as soon as possible. Engine and transmission oil renewed. Vario cleaned, rolls new, belts renewed air filter still Ok, left. Everything built together, started and driven about 100m (easy Be rg hoch) When turning around then went out (nothing noticeable noticed) and since then it doesn’t start any more. Starter E starts, but it no longer starts, kick starter without success. Mechanically everything seems ok here. Then everything looks again, no hose snapped off or something like that (Sprit is in it, mini air bubble In the filter moves when you organ (looked at by opposite light) ignition spark is there, plug on the housing and EStarter actuated. Ignition plug renewed on suspicion, since anyway there was – without success Would say slightly damp, but not wet or arduous dry. Short tank lid down, if vacuum – but was not OK and sprang on. Someone else an idea, what I could have screwed up here? Have done the same with my Sym Fiddle 3 from 2015, there was everything Ok After that… Dear thanks and a nice weekend Oliver

Hello Community I have already read x Comments on Roller vs. Motorcycle. By and large, it would be called Gilera Runner 200 ST vs Kawasaki Ninja 250 R. I tend to be 65% to 200 ST, because of the suitability for everyday life compared to a motorcycle. Only the price difference is not really big. What does a not insignificant role play for me. So I wonder what a good new price of the 200 ST would be? I have now seen more offers like e.g. 3799€, but these were j would it be possible and realistic to get a “German” 200 ST e.g. for 3700€ if you pay directly cash or even less? Because a new price of 4000€ would rather move me to the Ninja, even if it costs a few more euros. I live in NRW in the district of Coesfeld, if someone knows a good dealer. Mfg Martin.P

Hello dear friends, I have bought a swallow now. However, I am the absolute beginner in the subject of swallow. I have the following questions. I bought the swallow at ebay. In the article description it was said that the mopped is tuned and there is an S70 engine in it, which is supposed to speed the bird up to 80 km/h. Now I thought, ok, you fuahrst halt anyway only 50. Now a friend recently told me that one can drive with the swallow 80 if It’s allowed. What I couldn’t quite believe. On the naughtiest day, however, I noticed that the speedometer is 80 km/h. Well, I thought you could help me. Do I have to be afraid if I should be checked? My second question is, if I drive fast, the mopped starts to fluctuate slightly. (to the left right) Is this normal, because the mopped isn’t exactly the youngest one? (Bj 80) can you possibly fix the problem? last question: If I refuel, I got away from it. Salesman said that I should add 2 tactl oil to a litre of 33ml. is it enough if I first add tanks and connect the oil? or should you do everything in a container and first mix before you can put it in the tank? can I refuel E10? I would be very pleased with an answer. LG Markus

Hello together! Also at the risk that I make myself ridiculous …… Had bought me at ATU a charger for my scooter battery! The battery itself is brand new (according to the seller was charged almost 2 hours). At the handover (of the scooter) the e-starter worked: however, he gave me the tip to charge the battery completely. Now I started and with the help of the user manual charger connected to the battery: the brackets high-angled on the entspre I can’t check anything, because I don’t know at all what the charging current indicator would have to show me! There are no lights on the charger: at least I don’t see anything shining!

Hello, I bought a used 50cc Zip 2 timer yesterday, built in 2000 air cooled, and now also brought it to the running. The carburettor float has to be changed because it somehow overflowed. That’s why I made the air filter dry, removed the carburettor and emptied it and also changed the float. With a new spark plug she went on luckily and also ran well in the stand. Then I gave gas in the stand and it stayed on. but she wanted to drive she partly gave gas on her own and had a funny passage ( couldn’t really speed up well) . When I stopped then she went out with the new gas without stuttering. So when I added gas the speed went down. If I turn it on again and give gas again it runs again and does not go out. My guess is that the 17.5 carburetor is to blame. The Zip has no tuning parts and is up to the 17.5 Verga So I would now order an original 12mm Dellorto carburetor and install it. Can it be because of that? But can it also be that I should just let it run longer in the stand? Or is there any other reasons that can be considered for this behavior? At least now it goes on. I would like to thank you now for any help. Dear greetings Small info: The cylinder and piston is new, so it runs with 1:25 mixture to drive in.

Hello dear forum community. I wanted to install my charged battery in my Piaggio Zip 50 4t Built. 2007 (2006-2017 Piaggio (C25CM) China ESP2000CN2>8 LBMC25C), since the plus pole connection looked at me quite wrong. Apparently the probably cracked L-shaped cable shoe broke off within the winter time, at least I would need exactly this L-shaped cable shoe connection, but I can find it nowhere on the Internet. Maybe one of you could help me and can somehow use it in the Internet or garage find. Btw yes he must be L-shaped, otherwise it does not fit and there are two plus lines on the cable shoe.