Category: Motorroller Forum

Hello together, please excuse me if something similar has already been asked, am new here and also new as scooter driver. I have since last September an Explorer Spin GE50 from 2007, which ran until the end of October and was then banished to the garage for wintering. At the beginning of April I got him out again, charged battery and he jumped immediately again. At the end of April it started, that he started to stutter but only briefly. Then last week he went under driving after violent coughing out I then asked myself and wanted to clean the carburettor. So starting with covering decommissioning for better access, then I saw that the carburettor was very dirty and that the suction nozzle after the carburettor was strongly porous and very oily. I looked at this because of spare parts and ordered a whole set at E-Bay (carburettor, suction nozzle, membrane with seal and air filter). My problem now is that the old carburettor has a carburettor preheating, so There are 2 cables on 2 pins and the new carburetor no longer has it (was not installed since 2010). I can still install the new carburetor and, if yes, what do I do with the 2 cables of the preheater. Sorry for the long text and thanks already in advance Greetz Rookie 76

Good day, My scooter unfortunately has some problems. In the morning he doesn’t really like to start at the first start, I have to kick 10-15 times until he comes. But that’s only if he is standing overnight. Otherwise he starts directly with e and kickstarter. The second problem is that he goes out if I don’t give off gas. It doesn’t matter whether he’s cold or warm. He does so well. Bissel loudly but runs. What I noticed is that the petrol filter after a few hours of standing time le He is. But when he kicks, he fills himself directly. I don’t know if it has to be that way. Previous owner says that he has had the Vergasser cleaned. I don’t have proof of this. I only had it for a week. KM Stand 5000 and Year of construction 2018 Thank you for your help.

Hello guys, I have a problem with my MBK Ovetto. Unfortunately, the thread of the crankshaft is broken and there is probably not cut back. Otherwise, the scooter is actually good, but a new crankshaft would simply not be worth it any more during the working hours. However, I only get the old mother on it, because she somehow milled her way there. I think in the long run we will be too loose. I thought about it already to just screw-securing on it to mac I mean more than that the crankshaft can’t actually happen completely. So my question would be now if someone had a better idea than screw securing? Thank you and many greetings.

Hi guys, I just registered here, in the hope that you could help me. I’m in the end with my Latin So… I got his scooter from my neighbor, which didn’t sprung any more. He wanted to scrap it already. Here’s an overview of what I’ve already done. – Petrol tap new. – Tubes new. – Prefilter new. – Candle new. – Carburettor new. – Seals (cylinder head and foot, membrane) new. – Simmering new on both sides. – Alternator new. – Oil pump n eu. – Air filter housing new. – Compression 8 bar. The problem is, there is simply no fuel. If I kick, then you see the fuel in the pre-filter “whirl” but it doesn’t flow further. With the E nothing does. Only when I take off the air filter housing, hold my hand (before carburetor) and then kick, then the fuel comes. Do you have an idea?? I don’t have a clear idea what else I could do

Hello guys , I have a problem with my Peugeot speedfight 2 50 ccm ac “again”. The 2 wheel mechanics in my area have only in October again time so I have to solve it myself somehow . My scooter runs no matter how long it is after the first attempt with the kickstarter and runs very calmly . Then he drives his 50/60 kmh on the straight or also up the mountain .Everything great until it gets warm . As soon as it gets warm he drives on the straight still 40 kmh and on the mountain he remains one fac h stand even if I drive up with momentum. I guess either the oil pump (mechanical) or it can be the gearbox? Or yet the drive. I am at the end with my knowledge about 2 wheels maybe someone has had the same problem here and also found the solution. I am grateful about every tip. Many greetings and a nice Sunday evening.

Hello together, I am in despair with the Vario (Aprilia Leonardo 300 BJ 2005). I was unscrewed the Vario and showed that it was completely through. I bought a new one now. According to the picture 1 I installed it and pulled it over the new belt. After that the wing wheel or V-belt disc (don’t know what the exact name is) put on it and put on it (here I already had the feeling that the V-belt disc really only close to the K So it wasn’t until I put on the mother that she sat cleanly on the gearing of the crankshaft. Now I throw on the bock, give me a gas and zack the rolls jump out of their “tracks” and are distributed in the Vario. I have now tested this without the belt and the disc, because I wanted to see what happened. On picture 2 you can see how I put everything on. Now you can see on the video how the Vario snaps out (at this moment the rolls are probably taken out of On picture 3 then the result…. I just can’t get any further here. The person who ripped me apart can’t help me here (uninteresting story for here). Maybe I forgot to build something with it too? Did only the parts that were left to me pick up and install them like this (that maybe some mother or any other holder on the Vario?). Hopefully someone noticed something here and can I see something here. Iter help. Thank you very much. Greetings

Hello together, I am with my Latin at the end and hope for some advice here. Ride a Kymco Downtown 125i, 2010 year. Has now about 25.000 km on it. Had it fresh in the 25.000er inspection and wanted to drive a longer tour. In the first traffic jam after about 20 km suddenly the temperature indicator jumped up and the yellow control light from the engine went on. So drove out, let cool down and then slowly again towards home. In the morning while driving off I noticed that he did not ri On the way home it suddenly made “Pluff” and the gas was gone, engine was still running. So let the engine run out immediately and from the ADAC into the workshop. There they started the engine, but only briefly, because the engine rattered strongly. First joint diagnosis: engine damage After two weeks in the workshop they flushed everything through, changed oil, exchanged various seals, checked the control times and adjusted the chain tensioner and renewed the chain tensioner. Since I was told that the scooter has to be re-engineered, I did not drive more than 6,000 revolutions. But what I notice: it doesn’t pull more correctly than if it lacks compression. And he suddenly loses oil now. I just drove 130 km now. Does anyone have an idea? Would I be very pleased because the fun has cost me 800 euros now including inspection and the scooter still doesn’t run.

I find it funny Germany does not have a TÜV for 50 scooters. When I see what is on the road… I am for introduction. In any case we have the possibility to drive with car driver’s license 125cc. 12 hours training and 700euro and done. Why then no training and permission for 50 scooters, and then we can drive normally maybe even more than 60kmh. Many experienced drivers have problems with simple 50 automatic scooters. But law has no problem dami T, sit on it and go. Scooter and mopeds are also life-threatening. Did someone who is killed with Mofa (25kmh?) from the car. Is riddle, without any training and experience, easy to drive. Wouldn’t that be good? Annual TÜV and driver’s license for 50 scooters and then you can drive faster than 45/50 kmh?

Moinsen , I’ve been driving a Phillips engine oil for a long time such a “universal” 15W-40 and changing the 2× a year, however, I have the feeling that if the engine is very hot in summer, the oil (so after 5 months and about 1200km) is much thinner than before, which makes me worry. I researched a little and found that especially with high-turning motors (my Honda SS50 turns up to 10,000U/min) the polymers of multi-range oil decompose and so out of the 15W-40 a 15W-20 o which in the worst case becomes a 15W. I think that this can be especially with the engine also gear and clutch are lubricated and the polymers in the oil are taken there special speed. Is it then worth it for me to drive a one-area oil? Since there also only a popular sieve filter is also unalloyed? I found this here for the summer ( and in the winter again the 15W-40):https://www.amazon.de/…/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?… Would that do the engine good? I thought a SA E50 lubricates even better, because the thicker the better lubrication and the planes have also flown SAE 80 or so. Thanks in advance for the answers.

Hello, the scooter was standing for 3 weeks, then he drove for two days and then I refilled petrol from the can. The petrol was about 3 weeks old. If the scooter was filling on and then he suddenly went out and now I can’t get it on anymore. So about 20-30 times start it goes on and then shortly after it goes off again. So now a few technical data: Ignition sparks is there fuel comes carburetor cleaned new spark plug in ignition time also ok now I don’t know more further, could it be the cold starter or maybe something completely different????? Year of construction 2005 KM stood about 2300 4 clocks would be really great if someone could help me many thanks already in advance