Category: Nissan Micra, Note & Pixo Forum

Hello, I have a problem with the cover of my Nissan Micras K12 Cabrios (Bj. 2006), that it gives up its mind half way. I then called the ADAC, because I was still on the way. We had nothing else to do but manually close it. After re-activating the switch to open the roof, we had the same problem again. Sadly, I had bought the car recently and he had never made problems until the car wash. It’s just a guess that it was completely on the car wash, but think less, because the roof is relatively dense. I checked, of course, that the pull-rollo in the trunk is also correctly in its position. Cable trees in the trunk also had no abnormalities. Does someone know that it is still flying? Lg Dieter

Hello, my girlfriend has a K12 65 Ps BJ 2005. The air conditioning line is leaking at the typical place. Workshop wants over 400 euros. The part alone would cost almost 300€. From parts recycler you get the line itself quite cheap. Does anyone know if it is a big drama to change the line? What do you have to bear in mind, you get good everywhere? I haven’t looked at it yet, but screw a lot on my vehicles in general. Only on a climate I have nothing yet Thank you for your help.

Hello guys, I have the following problem: Have a Nissan Micra 2 k11 Bj 2001 petrol engine which, unfortunately, consumes a bit too much petrol and is jerking in the warm idle. Well after cleaning the throttle flap, this has greatly decreased, but the high fuel consumption is unfortunately not fixed. My driving style is also not so that it could come to such a consumption. I have already changed the fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs. Is it perhaps because of a def ect air mass meters?? Should I perhaps exchange that? I would be happy about your answer. Sorry, I know that this topic has been discussed several times, but somehow I am at a loss :O THX in advance.

Hello dear people, I have to ask a question again. With my mother a new battery is due. Original is this installed: TUDOR 12V 00B LB1 420A EN 47 Ah, soOriginal: 47 Ah / 420 A At that time I had the Arctic 360 A / 44 Ah from atu in my Micra. This should be correct according to atu. Unfortunately the battery from Anfnag was somehow “exhausted”. Especially in winter it tormented itself, but always jumped on. I think it was too weak. In my nourishing circle of shops I find now None that has exactly 47 Ah / 420 A. Choose from Varta 44 Ah / 440 A and Varta 52 Ah / 470 A. What should we take?

Hello community, I have recently exchanged a Nissan Micra K11 1.0 with 60 hp from 09/2000 (with ignition coils, without ignition distributor). The problem is that the car in idle mode adjusts the speed strongly. It goes after starting a clear shaking through the interior followed by a sagging of the speed. This repeats several times. As soon as it has warm driven, it does so at least 2 to 3 times and last in the traffic jam. Always in the stand. When it drives, I can not notice anything special. In the creep operation, it is already jerking off once and for all, but only when it has warm driven. However, it has never gone out yet, although I often had the feeling that it runs out right away because it does not quite lose speed. Is it not always pleasant when driving, because you have to give more gas for safety, but I do not know why the engine shakes so well, because when I give gas in the stand, there is no shaking through the interior. I am writing here that the speed is going up, but the inside is not a problem.

Hello, I hope I find here useful help. The following problem: I drive a great Nissan Micra K11 with all the drum and drum. Also with the NCVT automatic transmission. This transmission worries me now. Error description: If the engine is off, the transmission can be switched off quite normally. From P to R to N to D and back. As soon as the engine runs no more gear can be put in. When trying to set a gear, whether R or D, it only makes terrible noises. Well, I was On the road and still had to go home, so I choked D in and my car rolled immediately without giving any gas. Otherwise, my car ran quite normally and quietly as always. The gearbox switched all the gears straight through and worked inconspicuously. At least until the next traffic light. There the engine was “stirred” by the gearbox as if I would not kick the clutch in a manual transmission. Well, I then made it home with much trouble and luck. There is my best piece of work. I don’t dare to drive a meter anymore. I don’t want to break it anymore. I’ve received the following advice from experts so far. 1. Nissan contract workshop: “Shifter belt (what is it?) is defective – replacement gearbox – 2600 Euro material costs.” 2. Gear specialist: “Magnetic powder coupling (what is it?) is defective – new part 1100 Euro material costs.” 3. A friendly mechanic: “If the gearbox has a magnetic clutch your error could also ele “Hail! Please give me some valuable and cheap tips. I am very grateful to all of you in advance. Greetings Monika

Hi, can someone tell me which engine oil I can use for our Micra? It is a 1.2l with 48kw. Filled last 5 W-30 oil, only on the note is unfortunately no specification readable. In the operating instructions 5 W-30 preferably is to be used, only I somehow find no oil with the specification API SG, SH or SJ / ILSAC class GF-I or GF-II / ACEA 96-A2. Which oil can I use carelessly or what alternatives can I use? GOODS

Hello! I have a problem with my NISSAN Micra K12 (year 2003, running almost 90,000 km). If I am standing at the traffic light, for example, the rev indicator is sagging off (it does not run) and it has happened to me a few times that, if I drive e.g. into a roundabout or at a junction/traffic light, switch down and slow down that I have run out of the car. He jumped up to now always immediately, but a nice feeling is not. I was already in the NISSAN workshop to the F I was told to wait for a control person to approach. I was still in a free workshop and got a similar statement. It could be “a barrel without a floor”. Does anyone have an idea? Thank you in advance.

My Mirca K10 (78,000 km) has idling problems that may be related to the electrics. If I turn on the passing light, the idling speed increases by 300 – 500 rpm. ASU is fresh. I found nothing. I turn the idling on the throttle stop on idling speed it runs, if I’m lucky, for a few days also o.k.. Suddenly it goes off at the traffic light again. Then I turn the throttle throttle lock Ag again up, he makes a good 1700 – 1900 rpm in idle mode (if the light is switched on). Idle mode is not in fact adjustable. Spark plugs new, air filter is also new, valves are set. With a sporty left-hand turn, I also run out. Bowden trains I checked, everything free, the same applies to cables, all correctly laid. Somehow, I don’t care about this phenomenon. I don’t have a bug anymore on the workshop. And if I have bad luck, I get a monster bill and have the same problem at the next traffic light. Who else can think of? Thanks !!! Oh yes: The phenomenon existed even before the ASU. I bought the car with 38,000 km. Lief super. At 50,000 km this car (ex-rentner motor vehicle) came the first time from B. to F. on the highway. Once in Frankfurt, it went out of my way for the first time. Since then I have to fight with the problem.

Moin! I have a real problem here with the mixture preparation of my K11! I was at ATU this summer because my diagnostic lamp was working on. After reading out I got a horny computer print out that costs 20€! The computer print described the error from a defective cable to the capital engine damage!! (ATU stop!) The installer then said it will be very likely the LMM! This I had then changed and the lamp stayed out! Also the use of 10L went to 6 L back in the city! As a precaution also the temperature sensor was changed! Now went on again like warning lamp and I drove to Nissan! To the ATU Oracle I had no more pock! The diagnosis fell on Lambda probe it would still regulates work but too lean! Therefore comes from time to time to the error message Bank1 too lean! Was also plausible because error message only came up after a longer distance drive! I then ordered a new probe from NGK and installed yesterday! Battery w 10 minutes stuck and after the exchange 15km test driven! No jerked and no warning lamp! This morning he jumps well as always only I can not get over 40KMH! No performance! Does anyone still have an idea?? Is a K11 CG10DE of 01! Mfg