Category: Nissan Micra, Note & Pixo Forum

Good day Dear motor talk community (friends) Have a squeaky noise at the Micra when the engine is running – also when briefly gasing – WAPU, belts, reversing wheels renewed. No change. I have run the engine without aggregates and belts – noise remains (like a broken WAPU). Are three mechanics and with our Latin at the end! Noise is sometimes louder and then again briefly away. Comes about after 3-5 min. after starting and from the lower half of the engine. I would be grateful for a tip! Greetings from Vienna

Hello, I recently found water in the passenger’s footroom after rain. (The water gathers fortunately in a rubber foot mat with edge.) The water drips slowly (immediately) behind the hand gun compartment. I reproduced it, in which I put a vessel in the passenger’s footroom and tipped water over the windshield. So the reason is definitely not the door seal. Who has had such a thing before? Where could the water find the way in? Before I now Start screwing around somewhere, I’d like to wait for your feedback.

I have a strange problem with my Micra n-tech. In the meantime I know that it only appears at temperatures below -3 degrees. I park my car. After a few hours/or one night I get into the car. I step clutch and brake uniquely. Immediately the vehicle rolls off and can only be stopped by a courageous intervention with the hand brake. No I pump when parking not several times with the pedal and yes I am aware that without the motor of the brake power amplifier is not functional If I start the engine it is no longer a problem, everything works perfectly. I went to the workshop after the 2nd time. However, the engine was warm, the outside temperatures in the plus area and the car passed all the brake tests without any problems during the test drive with the mechanic. At warmer temperatures I also have no problem. Through the further observations I noticed that it was just It can also happen that the brake pedal becomes hard immediately after the engine is switched off and almost pushes my foot upwards. There’s something wrong with the vacuum? But why only in cold temperatures? Does someone know that? The car is new and doesn’t have 4000km on it yet.

Hello, I have a Nissan Micra K11. He stood from Saturday evening until Monday morning at 8 am without driving. This morning he didn’t go on or started again. Lamps went on, lights worked. Now I tried again. Same problem. A little gas, then he ran. Dangers is also without problems. I already have an appointment in the workshop (I have no idea of cars), but this is only in 9 days. Can I drive or do it like this I’d rather leave my car standing? What could it be and what cost come to me?

Hello together, have the following symptoms with the Micra K11, Built 96 1.0 with the N-CVT transmission. The transmission works really well, but if you want to switch from D to R or vice versa it only works with force. If you wait for something in N position then it usually works easily. As if the coupling does not separate properly, when switching from D to R e.g. you notice that he wants to backwards. I put the plug off from the coal holder then goes butter-soft to switch in all directions. After that I have the coal I didn’t dare to blow the inside where the coals run out (you can do that or should do that ). I have the fear that the carbon brushes will not become completely electricityless and therefore the coupling will not separate, which would explain why it is going well if it is plugged off. Maybe the micro switch does not separate correctly (but I have no idea where the seat is located ). l is new, car has run 68,000 and no errors are displayed. Problem is from the beginning ( about 1.5 years ) since we have the car. If someone has any tips about this problem ( maybe I can measure something on the plug ) or regarding the cleaning of the grinding rings or where the switch is located. I know that this transmission is very fragile so please no instructions about it 😉 I did a lot of research but not found much about it. Thanks in advance Lg Fredi

Good evening , I have the following problem with my k12 1.4 88ps Bj 2003. He sometimes has in cold condition idle , such a jerk , as if the engine is going out any moment and there is a speed fluctuating from 500-1500 . As soon as the engine is warm , everything runs wonderful . And there is also no error and the car does not go out . The camshaft sensor was exchanged in April this year . Now at the beginning of September the steering chain was changed . Picked up & drove for half an hour, again the engine light lit. As a result a mistake was read out with the lambda probe and then it was exchanged. Tomorrow we have the spark plugs renewed, because I had bought the car this year used & we do not know when this was last done. Did you vlt make similar experiences with your car & found out what it was about to jerk this ? I ask for your help! Thank you!

Moin in the round, does someone know that: relatively loud sounds (whole) from the secondary drive range? can’t really locate it, it dives (even last spring, when it was still cold in the morning) right after the engine start up, when “starts up” – and can be heard clearly at the first few meters after starting up…After a few minutes, the whole thing happens gradually, when the operating temperature is reached, it can’t be heard anymore… and only when starting – noises definitely don’t come out of the engine, since NOTHING is to be heard in idle… Please only answers from people who know more… Thank you in advance! Greetings, William

Hello, I hope you can help me. With my Micra K13 Bj2012 80hp the heating on the dashboard and above is no longer warm for some time. Only in the footroom comes warm air out. In the city with slow drive or in the stand comes out some lukewarm air, on the highway only cool. Last week I was at Nissan and they looked under the dashboard and the flaps work. Pollen filter was replaced because it was “too” and the problem should be solved with it But it is not. As before, only warm air in the footroom. What could it be? I am grateful for every tip.

Question to the spare parts professionals among you. Daughter has managed to kill the rear bumper when turning backwards. The plastic has broken and left a visible damage – in short: the part has to be replaced (with any grinding / spatula optics repairs I don’t even start at first) Now asked at Nissan – the part costs almost 260.-€ ! In the net, however, there are already about 60.-€ which, average so about 80 – 90 Euro. Supposedly, all of them should fit. But: the original Nissan bumper has the ETN 85022BC440 however, all offered in the net have either the ETN 640 or 240 at the end. What exactly the difference existed also the Nissan man could not tell me. If it were only a difference with no restriction on the pass accuracy then would be yes o.k. The “original” 440 end number anyway seems to be given to no single accessory dealer, already the whole www. My question therefore – someone can definitely tell me the difference of the numbers of the 440 or has listed one provider?

So people, After my blower only runs on two levels, already longer, I want to do something against it now slowly. I once googled, but am not much smarter. Sometimes it is said that the culprit is sitting behind the glove compartment, sometimes in the passenger room. Also the photos you see are quite useless. Anyway, as far as I have seen it. K12 ;1.2l; Bj 2007; Limo with three doors. Where exactly is the fan sitting? So the resistance that has to be exchanged. Can anyone give me a tip?