Category: Opel Monterey, Campo, Frontera & Antara Forum

Hello dear community, first I would like to introduce myself here, I drive now since December an Antara Cosmo Bj 2007. Before some Vectra A,B,C etc. for 20 years Opel. I have been here more or less active for about 3 years. Ohso, my name is Carsten, comes from the Wesermarsch. So now to my problem, shortly after the purchase of the thick fell out, went on guarantee, therefore I did not take any further care when the FOH told me that the headlight was changed. , just 3 months later the left driving beam failed. Used car warranty has just expired so, connection guarantee does not take care of the thing. Estimate at the FOH approx. 850€. I got a thick neck and looked at it myself (more than it can not be broken). And now comes the hammer, after the disassembly of the headlight and the cover I see an e-magnet, power tester on it and no passage!!! So I first have the statement of the FOH (doesn’t let repari It is a connection line with a plug on it, the magnet can be removed without big problems asu the headlight. In the connection line a piece was covered with shrink hose, this I cut open and what comes out under it, a fuse for 0.55€. I find that to the ko.en. there is a headlight sold to one for 850€ although a fuse is defective for 55 cents, just because a car mechanic is not in the L age is (or should not be) to disassemble a headlight and resold a fuse. Since I know from my FOH that I am not the first or only one with this problem I write this post, I hope that I can at least save some Antara drivers from this horror. I have already taken some photos and will set them here when the conversion is complete. My plan is to install a fuse holder so that without disassembly of the headlight, this S until then greetings and a nice evening Carsten

Hello, I’m new here in the forum. I drive an Antara from 2007, 4×4 with 150 hp. After I replaced the car battery, the following error occurred to me. Now I honestly wonder if this error is related to the battery change. I switched from a 70Ah battery to a 60Ah battery. The problem concerns the display. I add an image so you know what it’s about. In addition, a second problem has occurred. When I try to get the car to st As soon as the car is started, the tank status drops to zero and “F” is displayed in the clock display. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of it. Thank you for your feedback.

Hello together, this is my first entry, directly with a request for help.. I bought a 2001 Frontera B 2.2 Dti, which has been standing since 2019. I have already done the following: – Engine, valves and nozzles cleaned and resealed – new belt set and water pump – servo pump new – oil filter and change – diesel filter replaced – diesel, approx.10l treated with diesel spray medium and filled with fresh diesel – light bulbs and relays new – crankshaft sensor new – motor Steue The engine turns and wants to start, but does not. If I unscrew and start the high pressure lines, diesel comes out of the line at intervals, but the pressure is not very high. Does the pressure only arise in the nozzle or should there be any pressure? I can’t get a connection with the fault memory with my various measuring instruments, so that the pressure is not very high. Can someone give me a tip here, or maybe help me out with a reader? I am sitting in the area of Bad Kreuznach/Rheinland Pfalz. Thank you in advance Greeting Marco

First of all SUPER that it was made here such a post. Great! The year of mine is not quite true of mine is a 93er. But let’s come to the topic: The engine (petrol) sometimes does not come out of the hip when starting up and sounds like a VW beetle. From a certain point in time it gives the speed corresponding thrust. The joke about the thing, when I drive through a slightly larger and deeper puddle stops the whole abruptly and drives again normal for a whole We ile. I don’t know if it’s directly connected to the puddle after all, it’s already striking. It’s funny, back normal. Relay is new, gasoline pump is also. However, with the petrol pump, I have to say that it’s changed. This is now outside. No, that’s not me, that’s what a previous owner made. Even had to put a new wiring. Diesel engine oil inside. Above the lid seal (corck), he pushes out a little ÖL. Oh yes, the thermostat is over.

The steering wheel game in the stand has been on my mind for a year now. (Antara EZ 3/2009). First the workshop said that this was normal.After the steering also clattered on a slightly uneven road during the ride, a research by the workshop revealed that there was a repair instruction for the Chevrollet Captiva. Until it was implemented at Opel, it took another quarter of a year. Now this repair was carried out on the steering gear in January 2010. r Duration: After approx. 3000 km, there’s a new, technically modified steering transmission, which is supposed to be available since 4/10. Does anyone have any experience with it? Opel wants me to take part in the cost of the vehicle with approx.600 EUR.After the history in my eyes an impertinence.Or do the Opel drivers now end the testing of the vehicles?

In Austria you can order the Antara again. Is there any information about the 2.0 l CDTI engine with 170 hp that is installed there? Does someone drive this car and can say something about fuel consumption or the particulate filter? Are there still such extremely long cleaning phases as with the old 2.2 l engine? Thank you

Hello people, have a Frontera B 3,2 automatic Bj 2002 for 1 year. Now the TÜV stood up. AU did not pass Co2 values too high. Lambda probes report no error in the error memory. Also look quite new, the previous owner has done something. Have a possible error source, the connection flame tube to Krummer left pfenstert when engine cold, when warm, goes back, so the stake is leaking. Can this falsify the values? But there is anyway imme r some congestion pressure, then the leak can’t pull in any outside air? Or am I wrong? I still have to check “AGR” for further reason. If this is hanging or totally messed up …. I found further solution in the net: Exhaust soil so that the Lambda heating works better !? Is there something about it? Further procedure: Become flame tubes (Are there 2 pcs. because V6) times expand and endoscope, so look in with camera probe. don’t know how old they are. As I bought it last year, I only felt timing belts, wapu, air filters new and automatic transmissions. Additional possibility (read in net) to remove probes and clean with gasoline. And then, at AU re-examination make the flap trick (puff to stuff). Does anyone still know possibilities or causes ?

Hello forum, I have been driving an Antara Diesel full equipment since the end of April, km stand 20000 km The first impression true ok, then you looked more closely: > very high fuel consumption Ø 12.8 liters > very heavy drive and you have to switch down too often > failure of the on-board computer > complete failure of the electronics after 1 week parking garage stops, ADAC stuck battery off and then we could continue the ride again > oil consumption , after 2500 km 1 liter etc. Positive: > use itung is ok, it has been processed a lot of plastic, but it doesn’t quickly appear > with other comparable brands of similar material use > very nice appearance and falls on We look a bit more closely since we have a material testing laboratory and know ourselves with such materials. For the next three years everything would have to last, unless there are detected defects in the processing.

As an info for those who have problems in the automatic operation of the heater: With me it was so that when the car was warm at first, the automatic at some point began to blow ice-cold air towards the windows (even without sunlight!) and over the other nozzles warm air. At some point you have ice-cold hands on the steering wheel and the skull freezes too. Software update did not bring any change, therefore with me on guarantee a new ventilation control unit has been installed. Who has similar problems and an Antara up to and including model year 2007 (on the temperature scale is above – i.e. at 12 o’clock – the 24), which should push for change of unit. From model year 2008 (on the temperature scale is above the 22) the new unit is installed anyway. LG Michael

Consumption Opel Antara 2.0 CDTI Hey, I’ve been driving the Antara 2.0, Cosmo, Leather etc in sanddrift grey since last Tuesday. It’s a pre-sample car, have set all values to zero. Since I have a good relationship with the Opel dealer, I can still drive the Antara as a demonstration car until the end of this month, so I haven’t bought the vehicle yet. The car is so great (processing, engine noise etc.) Only one thing makes me really nervous – the consumption. many Opel models add one litre to the stated average consumption. Well, the car has a lot of weight, but a new 2.0 litre engine also showed the values by far not 10 liters on the Opel homepage. When I got it with 4000km it showed a value of 10.7 liters. My average consumption up to just: 11.3 liters and I left the car almost only castors and come not under 10 liters, at 70/km/h straight track and Te mpomat is just 10,4 liters. There seems to be something wrong – I hope, because these values scare me off. My consumption against the Zafira A would increase by just 4 liters. The car is really chic, exactly my car but my driving fun really stops with these running costs, even if the purchase price is quite high. If nothing changes, the Opel dealer can keep it. Today I have filled the Antara for the first time, so I can still nic This week I will probably have tested this and will talk to my dealer immediately tomorrow. Since I have already read a lot of these software problems, I have to vote on it. For example, the display of the temperature of the climate automation is not displayed either, the approach weakness is still there. I will continue to report.