Category: Privater Motorsport Forum

In racing, H and sequential gears are used, in sequential, one has to switch up without coupling the motor management controls this ? Only when switching down must have coupled ? – was believed with the DTM bolids. Actually, all new gears are synchronized then intermediate gas brings anything at all ? For example Fast and Furios, I know in movies a lot of crap but you can surely explain this to me exactly. Is racing a sequential gear through the short gear shift Is the H manual transmission in racing a stronger version to the normal transmission in cars ? (comparable?) Last but not least, someone has an explosion sketch to the sequential transmission ? has to look at google. The many questions just have to be out. Mfg nice evening

I wonder what is better to achieve the best possible traction for good acceleration: – much weight – less weight Suppose I have unlimited power available, what accelerates better, a vehicle with 1000kg, or one with 2000kg? In the heavier car, the pressure on the press would have to be higher, but also the mass to be accelerated. What is better now and how can one explain this physically? (as I said, purely theoretically with the assumption that infinite vie l power is available, but which must be transmitted via the wheels)

Hello everyone. I need experience values from people who run drag racing every now and then. How much time difference on the 1/8 or 1/4 mile is created between a very good start and a start where you simply turn to the limiter and let the clutch jump? Or more precisely: How much worse are massively rotating wheels in a front-wheeler, if the response time to the signal is otherwise identical? How much meter difference does it make? There is currently a Discussion in a simulation forum about Live for Speed. And there above described method to start with full speed is pretty much the optimum, which seems very unrealistic to me. There it makes after 40m less than 0.1 seconds whether you start with feeling or without feeling. Thanks already for answers RIP

Moin, I am currently converting Sierra with the good old OHC engine (Pinto) to turbochargers. Since I want to do everything perfectly, the exhaust line should of course be optimized, which is the A and O for a good response behavior. The series casting manifold naturally eliminates because of far too small cross section. Jetz asks me the question what is better: Nen 4-2-1 fan manifold because of even cylinder filling or rather as short as possible, 4 pipe stubs with low flow 45° pieces on as short a distance as possible in a 4-1 funnel and there directly the loader ran. I can buy the compartment ready for 250, is also not too very wound snake nest but about a half meter on which well temperature = exhaust enthalpie flutes goes until it goes into the turbine. The pipe pieces and the accumulator fry together should also not be expensive, so from the price eats even no matter. (with price anyway is second priority, with the project probably in total 5.000 only for M otor+Turbo+Range fried) I thought about the K03 from the 1.8T from VW/Audi, which is with 200 hp already at its poop limit but for that has the super-flinky response dynamics. Or would the K04 be better? Or a completely different one? I pick up 1 bar for 200 hp @ 5500rpm, overboost vlt. 1.2 bar for 220 hp. THX & Greetz

Hi, I’m thinking about installing a nice braking system for my VRT with good steam, which should be suitable for 17″ and not all too heavy! I’ve been busy with this system, however, 250€ is quite expensive for me and before I spend sooooo a lot of money I would like to hear different opinions! But I would like to not install an S3 brake or something like that in order to anticipate the other opinions, because they are clearly too heavy … 🙁 … if your Erf I would like to thank you for your contributions! Greetings

Hello… I wanted to inform myself what I need to get into cart sports… own cart, overroll, protective equipment etc.. I need a license… or do the lessons from the cart crew also suffice?? alos.. what do I need everything.. where can I apply or simply ask… have the Dragon eye in mind..http://home.t-online.de/home/dragon-eye/kartclub.htm please ask for your help… lg tom achso.. except of the membership.. what does it cost??? No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no.

Dear motorists, on 2 and 3 October we would like to cordially invite you to our first acceleration race on the Höxter / Holzminden airfield. Because then it says: European Drag Race The quarter mile is already very hot on your vehicles. With us not only race cars but also quads karts bikes and of course all series vehicles can compete against each other and/or against the clock. What counts is the fun. On Tuesday 02.10 we start with our test runs. You can Also arriving on Tuesday and celebrating free of charge at our party in the airport hangar in the evening. Tent opportunities as well as hotels in the surrounding area make it easy to stay overnight. Among many trophies there is also one for the largest visited forum or club. However, you should mark your car or leave a note directly at the entrance with the banner of the forum or club. So you are the largest forum or the largest club? We look forward to seeing you! Please register in time for duel and quarter mile races. Please click on the link or the picture. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b109/nico198/nico_web-1.jpg

Hello motorsport fans !! I’m looking for something sporty for next summer I’m driving a Seat Leon 1.6 Bj 2002. I’m looking for something sporty with a 1.8 or 2.0 engine or something with a turbo (bin turbo horn ). In addition, it’s important to me rear drive or four-wheeler and a sporty look. Price range is around 3000€ –> and I know it’s little money and that’s why it’s only going to be around the Bj 90. What would happen to me spontaneously would be a Nissan 200SX S13 with 169 Turb o-PS and rear drive or a Toyota Celicia with 204 turbo-PS and four-wheel drive. Do you have any ideas?

Finish my car at the moment. Underbody protection is almost completely down. I am still through the corners. Then he should weld in to the threshold and build cell (I’m about to make a professional). Then he should be blasted and coated (plastic because of rust). Now I am thinking about whether I should not weld the body. So the overlaps etc. Do I not make the body a mess? That it is stiff but then gives in to the sheet somewhere else? Ode r can I simply weld the overlaps? Or should I just use it sparingly? Or just 2-3cm caterpillars at a distance of a few cm? How are your experiences? How do you get the UBS from corners away where you can get bad? Have the sandblaster that overlooks…

Brake too hot pressure point loss zx6r ́01 giant problems and already for years. drive a 2001 he zx6r. After approx. 2 round running distance my brake lever wanders about 4cm to the handlebar and becomes it impervious. have ventilated it hundreds of times, steel flex is also other hollow screws inside. have already tested the most different coverings and brake fluids. without success. you know the problem and how to fix the problem. MFG Dirtjumber