Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum

Hi people I’m planning for the spring 20″ with 255/35 front and 285/30 rear for my Mustang. Jetz I picked out three tyres that are suitable for this:Falken FK-452 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 The new Pirelli P Zero The Falcon is a bit cheaper, the Goodyear has been on the market since 2004 and the Pirelli probably the most modern. Which would you take and why? Thanks already.

Hello… I have a little problem and I hope you can give me some advice….. I recently got the bad luck that a complete rim fell over – it was almost on the profile and I just wanted to mount it on the car, because I slipped out of my hand (however @/ ) and unfortunately fell on the front side… Now on the rims front so painted scratcher or “placer” were created…*heul* How or who can repair something like this again? a paintwork sufficient or may have to be checked whether the rim has taken damage from it, e.g. cracks etc. I thank you in advance for your support ;o)

This topic has already been chewed through several times, yet I would like to discuss this topic once again and present some theses that have not yet been taken into consideration. The already existing trimmings about wide tires are: -with wide tires one consumes more, …. -…because the rolling resistance increases -…because the air resistance increases -…because the larger inch rims are heavier -the acceleration is less I now have some other theses, d 1. Since the wider tyres in the majority of cases have a larger roll circumference, the actual speed is higher than with “standart tires”. This means that at e.g. 100km/h a real speed of 94km/h is driven according to the tacho with “standart tires”, with wide tires (due to the larger roll circumference) an actual speed of e.g. 98km/h is driven.–> The engine must do more at the same speed (additional consumption?). In addition, the odometer counts the same number of kilometers, but due to the larger roll-off circumference, I effectively cover more kilometers than with “standart tires”. Since I actually cover more kilometers, the calculation of the spritt consumption then makes with actually less indicated kilometers results in an increased (distorted) consumption. 2. I once weighed my 15″ aluminium rims with tires and my 18″ rims with tires. Result: The 15″ aluminium rim weighs about 14kg, the 18″ Alufelge weighs about 16-17kg. I believe that from this point of view no extra consumption (measurable) can arise. 3. As in contrast to a 195 tire, which is actually “only” 3cm wider, for example 225 tires, I can hardly imagine that this should increase the consumption by 0.5 to 1.0 liters. 4. Due to the larger rolling resistance also changes my overall ratio from the engine to the tire. Due to the slightly higher translation the acceleration is logically 5. In general, it can be said that most of the tyre’s rubber compound is decisive for consumption.

Hello forum, in preparation for a longer motorway ride I had to find a crack on the right front tire. It should have happened by a ride against a Kantstein o.Ä. Now I have read in forums that it is decided whether one can see fabric or not. I can see no tissue and the crack seems to me to be only superficial. Can I still drive on the highway with it? Since the car will be fully loaded (4 people + luggage) I wanted to drive anyway only 100-120 kmh . Pictures in the appendix. Thank you very much for the answers.

Good evening I cleaned and stored the winter tyres of the family fleet today. I noticed strange wear marks on the tyres of an Audi A3 (see appendix). The small grooves in the profile blocks have partly completely disappeared, with a few tyres this can be seen more often, with some hardly. The tyres are all of the type Pirelli 210 Snowsport with still about 4mm profile on it. I will not mount the wheels anymore, the tyres have a DOT of 0406, next winter There are definitely four new ones. My question is therefore rather not whether you can still drive with it, but how this comes about or whether this is normal, so that I can avoid this in the future.

Hello, Post the whole thing here again, because in my opinion (so I hope) it is not a vehicle-specific problem. I installed my winter tyres yesterday and I noticed a damage on the right front tire which gives me something to think about. Never seen this before and when I imagine that I drove with the car before 24h with over 200km/h over the down I get stomach pain. All other tires look perfectly except for minimal sawing. The tyre is like pressed in, has in one place also a crack BUT the thing does not pull around the whole tire but only 7/8. Should you be able to see well in the pictures. There was actually nothing run over or something like that, he drove himself also quite normal. Tires have come fresh 3 months ago on the rims, looked when they arrived perfectly. I would be interested whether someone has seen something like this or has an idea from where. owhat comes. The whole looks kind of dangerous to me and I want to avoid that repeating itself.

Hello, my friend has a very annoying and unusual problem with his BMW e91 318d 122ps. It is now on the highway the third time the valve in the rim at the rear left has been broken. The metal tube of the valve is released from the rubber. The first time it was a 16 inches rim with an old valve. The second time an 18 inches rim with a new valve (not 300km in it). The third time again the 16 inches rim with a new valve. And always back left! Always nac h 50-200km fast highway ride. But never over 210kmh, because the car does not drive faster. And what I have read are rubber valves up to 210kmh approved. Yes, you could actually build metal valves and have rest now, problem is just that I would very much like to find out the cause. One might think it would be something wrong with the vehicle, because always left behind and with different valves and rims/tires. But what could cause it? My friend taps on e in problem at the brake, because there was before he had the first breakdown everything changed from me. The caliper at the rear left was a bit tight, which then got a overtaking kit with new piston. Otherwise discs coverings and hand brake pads everything new from ATE. He thinks that the saddle may not be so free-run enough and at the highway the brake gets hot and by the heat the valve gets so warm that it gets broken. However, I can not imagine, since I already brake on and it is very free-accessible and since it is new disks you would immediately see a difference whether a hot runs, but both sides look exactly identical. But what else could it be? How can it be that within 1 week 3 valves say goodbye in the same way? With different valves and rims? This is a safety-relevant component, that can still become so hot and also at 300kmh something can not happen. As one could check to find out the cause? On the picture above one sees a new valve cut up by me, the lower one is the second defective one. It dissolves the vulcanization on the metal tube.

Good evening together, I would like to drive on my convertible (04-10 approval) 18 inches in the dimension 225/35 R18. In the past I have driven this size often and it has fit everything. Well, this wheel/tire combination must be registered on my vehicle by individual acceptance. For this on the one hand from the rim manufacturer a test report and from the tyre manufacturer a safety certificate, as far as I know. Since I drive with my convertible in the year if at all 5000 km, have I decided for Goodride SA37 Sport, also because of positive feedback on the internet!. But the manufacturer thinks that I don’t get a certificate. Is there only the way to switch to another manufacturer or is there still a possibility? Would I be happy about an answer. PS: I know Goodride is a China tyre. On my BMW 730d I drive Dunlop SportMaxx. With this I make KM and like to drive faster, the convertible is a nice weather car. Dah I don’t want anything expensive.

Good morning, I drive a Ford Mondeo TDCi year 2004, this needs new tyres in the dimension 205/50/R17 89V or 93W. The tire is gently driven, without squeaking tires, rapid braking maneuvers or sudden change of direction. (From the old I am out The only high requirement is that the tires get along well with a caravan and that it is not straight again with a mileage of > 40 Tkm every year. Fuel saving it can also be even more intensive. I’ve already finished: – Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance – Bridgestone Turanza T001 – Dunlop Sport Bluresponse Can you recommend one of these tires or advise me not to? You can also recommend other tires, so not only on the 3 of me mentioned. Currently I drive with Uniroyal Rainsport 3 in 205 / 50 R17 91V XL. This tire is already 6 years old. I moved the tires on weekend 800 km with caravan and kept myself to the air pressure of Ford n: VA loaded 2.3 bar, HA 2.8 bar. Now the tyre flanks on the holiday trip have been quite worn out – probably false air pressure. The tyres tolerate a filling pressure of up to 51 psi. Do I now have to pump up a filling pressure of about 3.4 or 3.5 bar to withstand the load of the trailer? I have never had XL mature before. The WW weighs only 1040 KG and had a support load of 75 kg. Thank you for your help!

Hello, I have been riding the tire “255/35R19 Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2” for 2 months now. I have real problems with the tire at a speed of 120km/h – 130km/h. At this speed I have a vibrating in the steering wheel, which is really noticeable. I was already three times in the workshop to balance, unfortunately no improvement! The manufacturer does not make a direct business, I should turn to my dealer. I also did this and got the answer that the Rei I have to be sent in. Duration approx. 4-6 weeks! Against advance payment I get other tires for this time… Do you also have problems with the tire, or other ideas? VG Hopek