Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum

The winter has gone, the silver summer tires are pompous on the axles … And every time I wonder why I am doing the 18″ tyres. In winter there are beautiful 16″ aluminium rims with 205 tires on it. The car drives with it agile, despite ambitious sports suspension pleasantly suspension, accelerates potently and you are still rewarded with a comparatively low consumption. If the chic 18″ summer flaps are pulled up with 225 tires, you pay for this with a carrier acceleration Verh old, lower Vmax, a 1:1 transfer from roadway to spine in poor roads, a higher decibel background in the interior and a noticeably higher fuel consumption (approx. +0.3 – 0.5 l / 100 km). Only the curve driving behaviour is better with the 225, but you don’t need 18″. Ok, the optical factor plays a certain role of course. The 18″ers are more quickly blurred with careless driving and don’t decorate the car anymore … Even worse i The second car, which gets up in the winter 16″ 205er and in the summer 17″ 235er. He drives in the summer still noticeably carrier. Somehow I am looking forward to the next winter tire season again … (thought at the beginning of the summer tire season) Anyone who would like to raise the topic here can now do so.

At reifen.com a few days ago I got cheap rims and good winter tires at reifen.com, incl. assembly. At the checkout I paid € 786.00 and it was also quickly in the hall where the new tires were pulled on the rims and also immediately the Monteur super Alu valves offered me a lifetime, for only € 10 extra which I did not want. Furthermore, of course, I was offered the storage of my summer tires what I But after the new WR were on the rims, the car was standing on the lifting platform and my SR were dismantled, the fitter showed me how dirty and rusty the wheel hub and the flange is and he could clean the whole for only € 18 and how bad it is to mount the new rims on the dirt. And this is a huge mess for clean work to take extra money and in this situation it almost limits to coercion for me, either you pay or it’s really bad for your car! It’s ok for extra services to take extra money and € 18 is also not the world but all extras and all costs have to be clarified at the order acceptance, immediately appear in the bill and not after I have paid almost € 800 my car without tires on the lifting platform is then still under pressure try to pull the money out of my pocket. Never reifen.com again!

Hello everybody, I’m close to the tears :'( Since Easter is at the door, I pulled my aluminium rims (Platin P53) on it today and was greeted by strong clear lacquer underwalks. I hung two pictures with you showing the true extent of the destruction. The rims were stored for the first time this winter in our dry cellar and thoroughly covered. The two rear rims look equally bad. The front ones, on the other hand, show almost no signs and d look as neat as I stored you in October. Other rims which were also in the basement show no signs. Even if I don’t drive the car often, but I don’t want to present it to my environment. I ask myself how this is possible, and what can I do now? Putting the rims into the treatment is certainly really expensive with these rims (high gloss facets). Do you have any other ideas what I could do? Many greetings and beautiful Easter.

Yesterday I picked up my Seat Leon FR, the dealer had given me 4 new tires on aluminums because voher only winter tires were available on steel. So far so good, but today I noticed that the car has 225/25 R17 tires on it. In the papers (certificate of approval part 1) there is something of 205/50 R17 tires. On demand with the seller this morning this is all so correct because only the smallest possible tires are included. now my question is all so right what he told me..? I know that only so that the tires must be registered that I drive otherwise the insurance cover expires. Please for help and clarification am a little confused I have to admit unfortunately no idea at all. I already thank you in advance for all the answers. Mfg

Hello all, short explanation: last year in May bought the car (e87 year 2006) from a well-known BMW dealer. Last month I learned that the summer tyres are already 12 years old –> BMW kept quiet about me and I didn’t really look. Stupidly ran. BMW now says I could still drive with them, my workshop says absolutely no. (picture of the car body of the tyre in the attachment), can see what you say about it. Now that BMW for the new set of summer tyres 650,- would like to and my workshop 550,- , I wanted to look around for myself. Size Front: 205/45R18 (unfortunately very rare size 🙂 Size Rear: 225/40R18 My question: do I have to use the same tyres for front and rear, or can I also use a cheaper combination? I would have now thought for the front e.g.: https://www.reifendirekt.de/…/rshop.pl?… Do I have to take a Dunlop for the rear? Or can I also take a cheaper tyre? Can you please give me a look at my workshop 550,- , a few recommendations? Greetings Philipp

Hello, I have above mentioned tires on my Astra-H station wagon on the rear axle. However, I have an absolutely bad driving behaviour. With moderately fast cornerings the ESP light flashes up each time. The tires are about 1000km on it and slowly they should be “imprisoned”. Today I pushed it once and it is definitely the rear axle that starts to break out. Is not a racing car now, but I want to survive an evasive maneuver on the highway. The tyre is so bad on a dry road, there’s no such thing. I’ve already looked for feathers and dampers, but I didn’t find anything eye-catching. Can you do something wrong when mounting that provokes such a behaviour (height)? When driving, you don’t notice anything, but that’s probably less to be expected on the rear axle. Is the tyre so bad? Does someone have similar experiences with this tire? Thank you. Greeting Metalhead

Hello I’m here for an acquaintance to choose good winter tyres for his Opel Mokka A without four wheel. Size 215/60 R17. I’m a newcomer myself and rely on test reports above all. I’ve read various test reports and landed at the BRIDGESTONE BLIZZAK LM005. On the sales websites, however, either “Off-Road Winter tyres” or “4×4”. Since nobody is planning to go off-road and the car has no four wheel, I wanted to ask if this is just marketing and the tyres are good suitable for mocha, or not.

I drive a VW passat and bought the rims of my mate some time ago with part reviews. Now I was at the TÜV and wanted to have them registered. But the Tüv claims that as described in the report, they are not SAT rims. The numbers in the inner wreath actually cannot be attributed to the company SAT. Now I was at the tyre dealer, where my buddy bought the rims and he says without original invoice he can do nothing and he only gives rims with the corresponding I can’t get any further on this. Maybe one of you knows this problem and can help me find the manufacturer. Optics, like MAM8, Audi-S Line rims.http://www.google.de/search?… Everything in the rim’s inner rim: – PCD 5 x 100/112 – 8JX 18 H2 – Made in PRC 773 880 Thank you very much.

Hello municipality, someone has an overview of what is the cheapest all-round device for cross-brand reading of RDKS sensors. Mind you, I just want to read out and not program or learn the vehicle. Background: – new sensors should happen with the system of Alligator. The big advantage here is that the programming software is free and always kept up to date. So there are no annual SW-update fees – new Sens I hope and assume that the pure reading of the sensor ID will also be possible with future sensors and car models without having to undergo regular SW-updates. So it’s essentially about having to make a one-off investment (and of course keeping it as small as possible). Think, I’m not going to be able to do this. Is the only one with this problem and would be happy about experiences or exchange of ideas. What I have found so far on cheap readers would be e.g. the Cub Sensor AID for about 450.- or the Orange OPSS 2 for about 500.- Has someone ever used these or other hot tips?

In the evening, at the beginning of the week, I suffered both left tires of the legs of the car (injection found). The tires are Bridgestone Potenza S001 – 225/40/R18 92Y from 2019. But I noticed the whole thing only in the afternoon of the following day. In the evening before that I drove home (most probably already with two airless tires on the left side). I actually noticed nothing. About 16km and 90% highway (max. 100 km/h). In the afternoon I wanted to drive away, I noticed the damage. I am pretty sure that the damage on the evening of the return trip was already present. I don’t mourn the tires much, but the rims are my problem. I happened to order new all-weather tires and also new rims last week. I wanted to sell my summer and winter tyres on aluminium rims (Original Seat Leon 5F Performance 18″ or 17″ respectively, so much of the purchase costs for The 4 winter bikes and 2 summer bikes I can advertise without thinking, but the rims of the other 2 summer bikes, where I probably drove home without air in the tire 16km, could be damaged after my first research. Height strokes, micro cracks in the inside, deformation. Which plan is in your opinion the best: 1. Insert wheels and indicate possible damage. 2. In a workshop, let the force machine and master check if the rim is suitable. (possible cracks from the outside not recognizable, but possibly not available) 3. Don’t worry, because the rims have certainly endured this (thanks to the tires? The track?) and advertise normally. 4. Selling or selling aluminum and accepting loss VG Mike