Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum

Good day, I am currently driving an 8Jx19 VA and 8.5Jx19 HA with 225/40/R19 and 255/35/R19 on my Stinger GT in 2021. My new rims are 9Jx20 for both axles. The HA with 255/30/R20 is not a problem from the deviation, but I ordered for the VA 225/35/R20 tyres and read afterwards that the tire must be at least 235mm wide for a 9inch rim… In addition, I have a circumferential deviation of +0.4% and with it the worry that possibly the four wheel or other electronics, by original ET VA is 34 and HA 46.5. Here I went to VA 23 and HA 35 so that it can get out about 1cm further. I’m not sure how the rim width of 8 and 8.5 on 9″ affects with respect to the ET (according to my understanding this has no effect on the distance from wheel hub to external edge). If someone can tell me his knowledge and can possibly take my care that I have to send everything back at the end of the day. , let me know. Greetings Timo

Hello everybody, I’m just about to think between two tires – Vector 4Seasons Gen-3 – Vector 4Seasons Gen-3 SUV for a V-Class Van with four wheel. What would you take? I’m not driving off-road with the van, of course, but often the SUV tyres are especially recommended or advertised for all-wheelers. Maybe there’s also someone here who knows both the above-mentioned Goodyear tyres and has experiences or can say something about the differences or has a photo. Since the prices id I wonder, of course, if there are really decisive differences or if the characteristics are so different that it is worthwhile for tyre manufacturers or if it makes sense to offer the tyres “normal” and as “SUV”. Thank you.

Moin together, the subject of this topic may sound boring, but please take 2 minutes to answer my question. In a slant training session I took part in, we were told how different the procedure is regarding the warm up of the tires between car and motorcycle. In the car, the tires warm up to a large extent by cornering and the slalom, as you see it so often in motorsport. In the motorcycle, on the other hand, is useful to you this technology hardly anything. Rather, the tires warm up by acceleration and above all delay. Also with the car of course. Recently, I was interested in why this is exactly the case and I came up with two solutions. In both vehicles the curve radius increases with the same steering stroke/screwing position with increasing speed. In the car, a curve radius arises, by compensating the tires to deviate from its track, which would be a (so I would call it) A In the motorcycle, the curve radius is created by shifting the centre of gravity next to and under the motorcycle. The tire itself differs only slightly from its actual track as in the car. In addition, only a small part of the tyre useful surface is used as a support surface, which leads to a worse thermal conductivity and more heat exchange between the tire and the outside air arises. less heat exchange between tires and asphalt temperature, but this should make only a small difference. I hope I could explain this so understandably and perhaps one can answer this question.

Hello, my good Contis have still measured 3-3.5mm, the lofty “X” on the actual profile indicators is not yet reached. The first question: at a maximum of 10,000 km a year, change now? I am convinced that one should not save on tyres and brakes. However, in this above-average safety-controlled country we still have the minimum profile depth of only 1.6mm. ” nik still has a high level of performance and grip…” Second question: There are such a huge number of manufacturers who offer different models, but also differ in cars and SUVs (what is an SUV? Renault Capture? Mini Countryman?) and then these countless abbreviations. What should you pay attention to? I have the following tires in the selection (order without meaning!): Question three: Which tire would you use with the current prices and my driving profile (20% city, 70% Land, 10% AB) recommend? Can I also mount a 99V? (According to experts at the Technical Service, yes!) What is the difference between the Hankook Ventus Prime 4 K135 and the Ventus S1 Evo3 K127? Had previously on my Volvo V70 the Hankook Evo 2 and was enthusiastic! However, some here in the forum advise from Hankook at less than 15 tkm, as it should age very quickly and its properties become drastically worse. Running calmly has a relatively high priority for me… kungung: Does sawtooth still play a role? As far as I can judge from the pictures, none of the above tires has a continuous running surface in the middle, which, according to my knowledge, can always result in a potential sawtooth formation.

If you go according to this article (see appendix), a tyre with the TLI of 91 would probably be sufficient, although it is registered in Schein 93. In my papers is under 7.1 (maximum axle load) a weight of 1134kg, which would mean load per tire = 567kg and thus I could drive purely mathematically an 89 tyre. Can you understand this correctly or have I overlooked something. I will definitely ask the TÜV. PS. The tyre of course as (XL/ Reinforced) version.

Hello, I have four summer tires that still have 3-4 mm profile. One of them is unfortunately damaged by a screw irreparably. In the garage I have a 5th summer tire lying, same size as the others, but still completely unused and accordingly still full profile on it. Actually I wanted to replace the one defective tire with the still unused tire. Question: Is this somehow harmful for the car or dangerous in terms of the roadworthiness of the car s, if I have three relatively uniformly worn summer tyres with 3-4 mm profile and a new tyre with approx. 7-8 mm profile on it? Or can you do that? The car is a normal, small compact car with front drive. Thanks already in advance.

Servus, to me a Malheur happened, I think the pictures say everything. Identification of the rim key is F. Can one buy such an adapter key individually? At Audi say they have to drill the wheel bolt, there is no other possibility.

Hi! Last year I bought a set of summer tires Michelin Pilot Sport 4 245/40 ZR18 93 Y AO for my S4. At some point you got the opportunity to re-examine the Vmax on the track. Normally the car runs at max. turnzal approx. 318kmh. And until then I had always raised Pirelli because they just went great and had a good grip. However, I had to change because the last set turned the vehicle into a vibrator, which sic The tires are absolutely in the norm. So now Michelin. And here the Kathastrope: from 270kmh it started to whistle, really loud. Several times tried. And as soon as I got even faster, the car started to swim like at Aquaplaning. So very scared again slowly. Pipe away. Gas: from 270kmh whistle, from 280kmh still louder whistle and then drive like slit shoe! The hammer. The tires have AO un un d are approved for 300kmh. The Pirellis had no AO and they stayed on the ground at over 300kmh as well as at 180kmh. So if someone has a corresponding vehicle that has no Vmax limit: fingers away from Michelin! Normally with limited Vmax that does not notice. And up to this speed they also run great and have felt more grip than the Pirellis. Nice Sunday! HJ

Hi, I bought Nankang tires because they told me they were good. Good?!? What’s good? Durability? Liability? Has anyone already experienced these tires?

What do you think about Goodride SV 308 225/40/18 . I know it’s a cheap tire from China , but some think it wouldn’t be as bad as in test reports. Did someone drive it on his A3 times ?? Have now the one from the factory Conti Sportcontact on it , which drove very fast at the TDI with really tame driving at least in front. I think that I want to get the Goodride once, if here already some have not made too bad experiences. Greetings FDII