Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum

Hello to all I have once asked a fundamental question which I had asked yesterday already in another form. And this is about whether two new tyres should be mounted better on the front or rear axle. The ADAC recommends that new tyres always be mounted on the rear axle because of the track guidance, since a sling is more dangerous there than on the front axle. As far as understandable. Now, however, the ADAC also recommends to exchange the tyres regularly every 10,000 km, so that you gle After 10,000 km, however, this would mean that in the case of a fron-driven vehicle, the worse tyres are sitting on the rear axle. I have exactly this problem, since I currently have about one year old summer tyres on the rear axle, which still have a good 5-6 mm profile tip. Now I get two new tyres and think about where to mount them. I am primarily concerned about safety, not about the costs. do not buy 4 new tires if the other two are still new. I would be happy about answers, Many greetings Robin

hi people, I need urgent advice. for some time I have a very strange unbalance when driving, which I would like to describe briefly: approach: car purchased, original 19″ rims with summer tire, car ran perfectly! winter: used rims with winter tires bought, unfortunately these were broken (lake very uneven). after 90km again down and claimed. old rims from me with winter tires on it, a little unbalancen, but ok. then summer: summer tires on it, unbalancen da! mature dealer visited, which meant that the rear matures are at the limit. so new mature on it! rear rims with new matures to the front, front rims with old matures to the rear. unbalanced further available. so the 2 old matures are replaced by 2 new ones, as high stroke may be present at the mature: unbalanced further available! description: the car times 2-4 days, the unbalance is more noticeable, i.e. the steering wheel shakes visible. this usually starts from 110-120km/h, becomes less from 140 km/h. after about 80-100k m ride (1-2 days) the unbalance is no longer as strongly noticeable as at the beginning when it was standing. since the unbalance squeaking the brakes a little (only with light braking, that was last year not so / no jerking when braking detectable) troubleshooting(tests!): rims are in order (says the tyre dealer) new tires are everywhere on / running direction is right / pressure is right has already been balanced 3x (although at the last time unbalance has been determined, although 1 week before the balance was balanced was already balanced e / 2 different tire dealers) track was measured (everything ok, at the front right minimum except limit) you have an idea what it might be??? I’m really with my Latin at the end! the next option would be to have the rims measured with laser, but I don’t know that I drove somewhere against a curb or something like that, car was never borrowed either. did you guess? I don’t know more, everything else costs half a capacity to fix errors! daaaaanke

Dear Forum, I would like to know how big the differences in the wheel circumference between front and rear tyres can be. Specifically, the following tyres are mounted on my BMW 1er (F20): Front: Dunlop 225/40 ZR18 92Y (Sport MAXX RT2 XL) Rear: Dunlop 245/35 ZR18 92Y (Sport MAXX RT2 XL). These tyres should be almost identical in the wheel circumference. When I recently monetized my winter tyres and put the summer tyres in “their corner”, I noticed that the V The rear wheel tire is certainly 10-12 mm smaller in diameter. On the attached picture with the water scale is the tire on the left of the front wheel tires, on the right of the rear wheel tires. It is always said that 2-3 mm difference in the profile can lead to worse driving characteristics. But here is clearly more difference. All four tyres were mounted only about two months ago. t and still have almost full profile. They replace four Michelin Pilot Super Sport in the same sizes. I have never noticed before that the tires have such an obvious difference in diameter. Is this also the case with other vehicles / tires?

Good morning, topic with me: purchase of winter tyres/wheels from private via EBAY classified ads in the range of €2,000.. The wheels were described as follows: “Tyres have only run 1500km, absolutely as new”. I asked the seller for the DOT numbers, because they clearly indicate the age of the tyres. Background is that old tires clearly lose quality and safety (hardening, significantly less wet grip). He wrote to me: “DOT I have to look – the tires I got in June 2020 (this year!) bought for the main investigation -” I relied on it and did not ask for the numbers again explicitly. Now the wheels were sent to us for referral. Profile is actually almost new. However, with the DOT numbers one can see that the two front ones were produced in calendar week 16/2015 and the two rear ones in calendar week 41/2015 and are therefore 5 years or older. There is no legal regulation on how long tyres are In the net you can find this: “The Bundesverband Reifenhandel und Vulkaniseur-Handwerk e.V. (BRV) states that tyres up to an age of up to 3 years are considered factory new. Unused tyres with an age of up to 5 years are still considered new. According to ADAC, new tyres should not be older than two years. At Quick Reifenservice only tyres are sold as new products, which according to DOT number are not older than 3 years. Thus you get only new tires. But also tires older than 3 years can be used safely, but then they have a lower service life.” I feel deceived by the seller, he stands on the point that he has provided me with all the information truthfully. This is annoying insofar as we could have had the same wheels with DOT numbers from mid-2017 and end of 2019 for significantly less money. Finally, the indication “absolutely new” and “buried only this What are our chances of “reduction” or even “reduction”? VG and thank you

Hello I have since June my first car, a Nissan Qashqai J11 petrol. Now I would need winter tyres soon, but I thought instead to buy all-year tires. Unfortunately I have absolutely no idea of the matter. I know that all-year tires are always a compromise. I do not know however to what extent this is relevant to my driving profile and wanted to ask here the experts. I drive during the week about 30-40 kilometers per day, but only city. On weekends i 300km, of which about 200km highway, 50km highway, 50km city. On the highway I usually drive a maximum of 180km/h, most of the time more 140km/h. Are all-year tires a suitable choice for me with this driving profile? I would, of course, buy all-year tires from a “Premium” manufacturer, so I don’t want to save on it. Thank you.

Good evening, I’d like to contact you because I have a concern that causes me quite a stomach pain. My girlfriend bought an Opel mokka x annual car with her parents today and ordered a set of winter complete bikes with them at the car dealership on recommendation. I just ordered the bikes in front of me and I’m not sure what to think of them. Here the car dealer’s tyre of the brand: Radar, Type: Centigrade Plus were recommended and sold. I’ve never been irge and what is heard from this brand and even Google spits out almost nothing. No tests, no threads in forums…NOT. You can buy the tire in a two shops for 40 Euro/Stk (17 inches) which seems extremely cheap to me. I attached the AB times.

Hello, need your help. I bought a used spare rim because a mounted rim on the car had intensive contact to the curb. The spare rim has in two places elongated matte spots on the rim ring (see photo). Haptic is only with the fingernail questionable a difference to the other intact rim surface recognizable. Visually not beautiful, but better than the currently smashed rim. My question is now where such a thing comes from, a) because it interests me and b) Is it possible to change something about it? What is the cause? Do I really assume that the clear varnish here is somehow flat and the shiny metal was removed somehow flat? If so, then there would be no clear varnish and one would have to be extremely careful with corrosion on rainy days and with cleaners or?

Hello, have a question about car tires. (Whether summer tyres or winter tyres) Why do tires (different manufacturers) almost never have more than 8mm profile on it, in brand new condition? Why not 10mm or 15mm? Does this include driving comfort, handling, safety, wear and tear, or is it simply due to the sales of tire manufacturers??? (Less profile = frequently buy tires…) I know, for example, of so-called retreaded tyres, that they usually have more profile (e.g. 10 Why not also use/produce new tyres with 15mm tyres? Perhaps the rubber won’t last and could “break off” (on the profile grooves) in pieces? Or does that have a completely different reason? I’m curious if a specialist can find himself, preferably someone who might even “design” tyre profiles or simply know how to answer the question professionally in the industry/with the material.

Hello everyone, short story about my problem: Last week I drove my car to the station like every morning. When I suddenly noticed a slight right-hand corner, I thought nothing about it at first, but when I arrived at the station, I saw that the right front wheel was flat. Then I went to a car dealer in the afternoon to mount a new tire on the rim. The next day I drove 20 km and again the same, a right-hand corner. I arrived at home Was It turned out that it is a rim crack. Short details about the rim: Dotz Rapier 17 inches, 3 years old, warranty recently expired, rim minimally hit. Now my question: Do I have a claim to repair by the manufacturer? Because it can’t be that after 3 years such a dangerous error occurs. I can gladly give you several photos of the rim. Greetings Michifuego

Hi all, three weeks ago I bought new all-weather tyres from the tyre dealer. I have Hankook KinERGy 4S 2 H750 XL FR in size 195/55 R16. I unfortunately let myself be blinded by the good price until after the assembly they told me that they are tyres with a higher load than I would ever need for my car, Hyundai I 20, year 2015. Can I now have any disadvantages in terms of comfort or safety? What I notice is that they, compared to other all-weather tyres, are already a bit louder, which doesn’t bother me now, but as long as everything is safe. Unfortunately, when I bought it a lot went wrong, which I already posted here. A tire was defective during assembly, then I had to go again because a tire was probably wrongly balanced. Have a nice evening and thank you for your answers.