Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum

Hi all, I drove a little nail into my rear wheel some time ago, as a result of which there was constant air loss already after short distances. Since the tyres are not very old, I decided to go to the workshop of my trust (since more than 10 years) before spending money on new tyres. “You don’t need a new tire, we will fix it immediately.” Said, done. The repair lasted a maximum of 10 minutes and the tire was patched with a “pilt”. The air pressure on all 4 tires was checked. Cost point 16 EUR. “Your tire is now fully functional again, you can easily drive up to 200 km/h with it.” At home I looked at the whole thing more closely. For me this repair with the fungus looks somehow very unprofessional. Instead of the nail it looks like I was driving into a blue chewing gum, and that’s how this mass feels. Now my question: Does someone have experience with the can I trust the workshop if they tell me that the tyre is fully functional again? I drive to 80% city and country, but if I’m on the highway I don’t want to take any risk, especially since the affected tyre sits on the rear axle, which will not go well with a tyre pitcher or the like.

Moin, we have had a Fiat Panda Cross 4×4 with Conti EcoContact 6 175/65R15H 84H (series tyres) for about a 3/4 year. We live in rural areas and have about 600m dirt road to the house. The dirt road is easy to drive with a normal car. The Panda now has for the sixth time (!) a plate. As far as I can remember, the plates are mostly (if not always) front. The cracks (times 0.5 cm, times up to 2 cm) are always in the running grooves. Stones or stony ground. Our second car is a VW up with Bridgestone 185/50R16 81H and here we have never had problems for 5 years. From this I conclude that it must have to deal with the tires of the Panda. Does anyone have an idea what I can do there? Probably other tires, but which? Higher load index? Reinforced? Panda problem? Other idea? Thanks and LG Georg

Moin, since both tire sets are through and I probably drive for the next 4 years to 85% city traffic (about 10,000 km/year), I wanted to try all-year tires. I drove last summer still with the cheap winter tires, that was already bad borderline when it rained, because you had to with a maximum of 10 km/h around the curve, better less so that the car does not knock out. If you drive with those times highway in rain you can forget faster than 120, because then it already often schlin Hope that it will definitely be a bit better in summer with good all-year tyres than with winter tyres? XD Then they are already bought… 😛 Thank you!

Hi, I would like to buy new rims on which the tyre sizes 205/45R17 215/45R17 225/45R17 are allowed. The 225er costs about 10€ less per tire, but in the report I have to produce the conditions K1c The wheel cover on axle 1 is to be produced by exhibiting the front apron and the fender or by mounting permanently fixed body parts in the range 30° before to 50° behind wheel center. The dimensions of the tyre (1.04 times the nominal width of the tyre) are covered in the above mentioned area. K2b The wheel cover on axle 2 is to be manufactured by exhibiting the rear apron and fender or by mounting permanently fixed body parts in the range 0° to 50° behind the centre of the wheel. The entire width of the wheel/tire combination must be, taking into account the maximum possible operating dimensions of the tyre (1.04 times the nominal width of the tyre), in the above mentioned Bereic K6g On axle 2, the fixing flap of the rear apron is to be shortened by 5 mm at the transition to the wheelhouse cut-out edge or to bend the same measure to the rear/top. K8c On axle 2, the wheelhouse cut-out edges are to be widened by 5 mm in the range 200 mm before to 100 mm behind wheel centre. Therefore, my question, pay off the 40€ less or make K6g and K8c (K1c and K2b must always) more problems. Thanks for the answers (and sorry for the long post).

Hello all, today my wife’s FoFi was the turn to be cleaned. He’s clean but he’s made a terrifying discovery The rim at the front of the driver’s side has got a clear blow. Cracks of rim or tires were not visible with the naked eye. Woman was not aware of this, but the cause is assumed to be a violent pothole from last week. I looked sensitively for vibrations or the same during the ride, but Go I have the following questions: – Is this a security risk? – Can something like this be repaired? (perhaps allowed?) – If YES, what would be the fun of me? MFG

Hello, has someone ever experienced that 5 !!!!!! Wheel bolts solve by themselves ? It was like that with me, summer bikes on it, then driven, beating sound from the front! Look and on the driver side were all 5 wheel bolts loose, then I put them on again and after 20 km the same game was again! Did then the wheel bolts turn into other holes of the wheel hub and see, now they hold?! What is it?

Hello all, in spring my Volvo V70/III (T5 – 245PS front drive) gets its new 18-wheels, which I still lack the matching shoes (235/40R18). 🙂 What would be your recommendations of the currently available summer tire models? The tyres should be at least relatively comfortable and quiet considering the low cross-section, but also a bit sporty. Good grip and safe driving behavior are of course also important. In the past I already had good experience with the GY Eagle F1 Assym 2 made on another vehicle, so I would like to tend to the newer Eagle F1 Assym. 3. Would this be recommended for my vehicle and my requirements? Best regards, Felix

Now think about the summer, and since I don’t want to spend too much on a decent tire, I’ve looked at these 3 in size 175/65 R15. All from Far East (Korea/Japan), all about equally cheap (about 38 euros) and all with different tests (sometimes “good” on wet, some “-” on wet).

Hello, I’m driving a station wagon and I’m just buying new winter tyres. For some reasons, the otherwise exactly same premium tyre is 12 Euro / piece cheaper with my dealer if you take it in 91T. Otherwise I buy 88T. Do I have any disadvantages if I save the money and buy the 91?

Hello together, after spending days interpreting ABE text and internet forums (which are partly very repeatable), I would like to throw my question here. I bought new complete wheels for my Mazda6. Michelin 235/45 Y R18 on RC design RC22 rims (8×18 LK:5/114.3 ET:48) This tyre size is not registered in the vehicle license, but in the ABE of the rims is only the following (relevant) point: A02 which (shortened) says: … g (in the vehicle papers) is not required if the ABE of the special wheel contains an exemption from the obligation to correct the vehicle papers.I have problems with the interpretation of this paragraph. A01 is not necessary for the rim according to ABE on my car and the tyre dimensions are explicitly mentioned in the ABE, does the text in A02 mean that I do not have to remove the wheels and/or register them? If it helps in the answer, here the link to the report, my car is in the following column: Mazda 6 GJ, GH e1*2007/46*1001*.. e1*2001/116* 0448*14-.. – from model 2013 PS: Sorry about the scope of the question, but I wanted to provide all relevant information