Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum

Hello, I bought the above tyres anew and am looking for cheap aluminium wheels around 70€/piece. That there are many different and tastes are different is clear. It’s more about the question where to buy? I was already in 5-6 tyre shops in the Stuttgart area and only partly satisfied with the advice. The rims should be with ABE and simply fit to the tires and to my new Golf 7 (0603 CBR005873, 1,5l, 96kw). I like the Dijon rims on which the summer tires run. I had thought about the CMS 22 in silver or other cheap ones, e.g. at ATU (Europe ROM).

Hello I bought a day registration. Car stood for over 5 months at the Kia dealer. Tire Nexen Winguard Sport 2 (245/45 R19) The vibrations come from the rear axle. Sometimes you can notice it from 75 and then only from 90kmh. What amazes me. As soon as it vibrates, that does not stop up to 130. With poorly balanced rims I know this so that it is present at about 80, at 90 – 110 is quiet and at 120 it vibrates again. As soon as I drive off the highway and the speed below The driver with ContiSportContact 5 also had slight vibrations during the test drive. Seller said this is due to the 3 bar that the tires have. Picked up the car Friday night. Mail to the seller is already out. What is your guess. Rust on the brake? Rust on the wheel hub? Wrongly balanced? Height stroke? As said, as soon as you drive 60, you think the vibration motor in the seat was removed. Don’t think that the construction is necessary, otherwise a lot of sportage riders would go to the barricades. Moreover, my preface lift Sportage didn’t have that.

Hello together. I recently got a CR-V, which unfortunately only stands (according to the law) on summer tires. Now I need new all-year tyres in 225/60 R18. I have the Yokohama Bluearth 4S in mind, because this is in the middle price segment. Does anyone have any experience with it? Is not on the market for years. I believe only for one and a half years. Thank you

Hello dear community, the question may seem stupid or have never found it here. And that’s what it’s all about: I have 19 inch rims on my Bmw e60, but the operating instructions say the tyre pressure for 16 inch rims. Is there a different pressure on the 19 inch rims than on 16 inch rims? Or is that the same?

Servus, I’m facing a problem that I somehow didn’t find a liberating answer to, so don’t hit it right away, should there be a lot of similar questions I honestly didn’t find one that answered my question exactly. I’m looking for new rims for my Renault Megane III Grandtour 2.0 l 179 hp. Now I’ve looked at the original rims and a 7Jx17 CH5 ET49 on it. But now to the problem, as soon as I search my vehicle over HSN TSN, each rim gate gives me rims with 7Jx17 and also 5×114.3 but also with other injection depths like ET50 or ET40, but supposedly allowed on my car and if I change the ET49, there is a different hole circle usually 5×112. But now I think to know that you can’t change the ET without papers and testing. And 5×112 doesn’t fit if it has to be 5×114, so I can just take the recommended rims with other ET? How does this deviation feel, I can still get another ET without thinking about it. ellen, can someone clarify that? Thank you!

Hello everyone, I put my summer tires back on the car yesterday (Godyear F1, 225/45/r17 from 2006). I had no problems with them until the demonthly last year, now I have changed for reasons of even wear from the rear to the front. Right on the first ride this hum occurred: between 30 and about 60 kmh extremely strong in the interior, but no vibrating of the steering wheel, especially to feel when the car rolls and is not accelerated. I had read a lot about the sawtooth here, I checked the tires, but there was nothing noticeable to discover. So today I switched back (back to the front again), just like the tires were driven last season. The loud hum is still there in the above area, but at least not so extremely loud (you could hardly talk in the car before). I checked tire pressure, and also tried with more now less pressure, without success g. My next step would be to let the tires balance and to have them checked on high stroke, but then I wouldn’t have to have vibrations on the steering wheel? The tires still have between 3.5 and 4.5 mm profile and actually wanted to drive them this summer. Still ideas what I could try ? Greetings and thanks for your input. Joschi

Here’s a very interesting video in which Nokian compares his winter tyres for North and Central European conditions:http://www.youtube.com/watch?… It’s interesting that mE is almost warned against driving in Scandinavia with these ‘bad’ winter tyres for Central Europe, because they are designed differently and are made for other speeds and weather conditions. Words such as ‘snow king’ are relativizing very quickly and also snow and ice ratings for m ADAC and other tests at least appear in a different light for me. Especially in the brake test there are considerable differences…

The Auto Bild Sportcars published in tomorrow’s issue, the winter tire test (225/45/17). Was today with my tyre dealer and what I see: The new (complete) edition, which is supposed to be on sale only tomorrow, with a big advertising banner from Dunlop on the cover page: “Dunlop is the Auto Bild Sportcars test winner”. How can, if allegedly everything is so objective and the edition tomorrow (!!!) only appears in the trade, Dunlop then today already issues of this Ze If it is so objective, how does Dunlop know the test result (long) before the publication of the magazine? How can Dunlop, 1 day before the publication of the original magazine (without advertising banners), already distribute magazines with advertising banners? Slowly (could) one almost get the feeling of becoming quite vera…. from these (allegedly) objective tests. Is there (possibly) before that (possibly) before that. The test winner is already fixed and the test is written around it? Maybe there is also a very simple explanation, but a rather low taste remains.

Hello in the round, is that actually still normal, what I am experiencing? Sometimes I really doubt myself. Vehicle: Citroen Jumper II Tyre size: 215/75 R16 C Previous tyre: Continental Vanco Winter2 (as 113/111 R) Current tyre: Goodyear Cargo Ultra Grip (as 116/114 Q), slightly rougher than the previous one. Happy and satisfied that I could spontaneously (can you “mount” now?) pull the tires on it just before worktime – the sticker due to lower speed “The tires are too big, with a strong steering impact they grind somewhere.” (With the old tires never had problems, the size is out of the vehicle’s license, were just at the wear limit.) I: “Can’t be, there has been the same size as before, just another manufacturer.” : “Yes, that can happen however, that despite the same size designation the manufacturers interpret these (I’ll shorten the time) differently. 215/75 R16 does not have to be equal to 215/75 R16.” I: “Well, great, and now?” Conclusion: The cart stands now and is not driven. Can you really not rely on it nowadays when the size is on the flank? What does that stand for, if it is not true? Should one now measure yourself? Why pi*** then the tuv actually still stands if deviations are above x% (registration / speedometer adjustment due to different tyre size), if not even the same tyre designations provide an identical result? I can no longer come with …

Hello, OK, there are 30 degrees in the shade, who is thinking about the winter? I do, because if you have to equip 2 new vehicles with “Snow-Boots”, then you can not start with it soon enough. I think times after the last “non-winter” the tyre dealers with their orders will probably hold back quite, and with the sizes I need (195/65-15T and 205/60-16H) it could soon come to delivery bottlenecks, as soon as a snowflake can be seen. So h yesterday I mailed the friendly GM dealer and requested an offer for 2 sets of winter shoes. He offered the Semperit Speed-Grip2 in the 195er size (448 euros per set) and the Pirelli W210 Sottozero in the 205er size (598 euros per set). (Each time completely balanced on original GM steel rim) The Semperit has good to very good test results everywhere, with Pirelli gaping the test results miles apart. From “restrictly recommended” to “exemplary” is all This confuses me a lot, especially because you can’t even see a uniform line during the test periods. So before I put 600 euros in the sand, always with your experiences. What is the grip in the snow (most important for me), what about aquaplaning? My experience shows that these are two criteria that are particularly difficult to get in harmony with one another. Thank you and dream of the beautiful cool snow. Reimund